GARDENS OF BAGDAD. 247 would doubtless have met with a favourable reception. The gardens commence within half a mile of the walls of the city, and extend four or five miles along the water's edge. They are separated from each other by walls; a small door opens from each garden towards the river, which often serves to admit some female, who, gliding softly in a small boat, enters the garden by this means, while her lover comes in from the opposite side: here the precautionary measures of dress, that were intended to ensure fidelity, prove useful only in preventing discoA woman thus disguised can escape very. without much fear of detection; the uniformity of the dress prevents any one from identifying her figure, and no man, whatever may be his suspicions, will dare to lift the veil of a woman in public. In Constantinople, Englishmen who have engaged in this description of adventure, have disappeared, and never been heard of afterwards. In Bagdad there does not appear to 248 LIBERTY OF TURKISH WOMEN. be so much danger; we heard of some of our own countrymen having escaped, even after detection, though, in some instances, the female, and some of the principal abettors of the intrigue have fallen victims to their imprudence. From these circumstances, it will appear that Turkish women have more liberty than is usually supposed, and though, by the customs of the East, they are deprived of that respect and admiration of the men, which are the birthright of English women, they have, perhaps, more power of indulging their licentious inclinations, and with less fear of detection than our ladies, who, like our monarch, have a legitimate though limited sway. : BAGDAD. 249 CHAPTER XI. Buildings in the time of Haroun Alraschid—A House -Mosque-Disregard of the Turks for AntiquitiesPreparations for departure-Advice to Travellers— Roguery of the British Agent-Mr. Wolff, a Missionary-Extortion of the Servants of Aga Saikeis— We leave Bagdad-Gold-stick bearer-Benee-SadRuined state of the Town-Aboo Nasir throwing the Jereed-Bacoubah-Devastation of the Army of Mohumud Ali Meerza-Alarm of Robbers-Aboo Nasir's Request-The Silver-stick Bearer and Aboo Nasir take leave. DURING our stay in Bagdad, we were very anxious to observe any customs in use amongst the modern inhabitants, with which we might associate our recollections of their ancestors, as recorded in the Arabian Nights; but Bagdad is no longer the Court of the Caliphs. The former capital of the Eastern empire, has dwindled into the seat of government of a remote province. The deputy of the Caliph's successor occupies the seat once filled by commanders of the faithful; and although in the decline of a great city there must be a smaller field for the delineation of character, than in the days of its prosperity, the customs of the present inhabitants have such an affinity to the accounts handed down to us of the days of splendour, as to bear ample testimony to the fidelity of that admirable picture of Oriental life. In our search for illustrations of the Arabian Nights, we were not unmindful of buildings in the time of the Caliph Haroun Alraschid, the detail of whose midnight pranks has so amused our earlier life. Though there are few remains of this merry monarch, these few, unsatisfactory as they were to our craving curiosity, were visited by us with a grateful respect for his memory, proportionate to the pleasure we had RESIDENCE OF HAROUN. 251 derived from the perusal of his exploits. A house situate on the banks of the Tigris was shown to us as having once been the residence of Haroun. There is nothing in its actual appearance to attract notice, though it is remarkable for the judicious situation in which it is built. The far-famed Tigris washes its walls, and from its lattices is a fine view of the surrounding scenery. Another memento of the Caliph, is a mosque in a dilapidated state, which bears marks of having once been beautiful and elegant; it is nearly the highest building in the city. Captain Hart attempted to make a sketch of it, but was prevented by the importunate curiosity of the Turks, who had gathered round us to discover the objects of our attention. Here it may not be irrelevant to offer a few remarks on that disposition so observable in Eastern nations to allow the works of antiquity to decay. The people who do not look backward to their ancestors, will never look forward |