10

ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT.

tation in the coast, and the land, or rather rock, for there is not the least appearance of soil, rises nearly perpendicular in crude rugged masses, presenting an aspect of the greatest sterility imaginable. The roadstead and town towards the sea are defended by a great parade of fortifications, but they appear to be in so ricketty a state, that the firing of their own guns would demolish them. Four large vessels belonging to the Imaum were at anchor in the harbour; one of these was the Liverpool frigate, lately of his Majesty's service, which the Imaum purchased two years ago. His Highness, though very fond of ships, knows but little about them. From the manner in which his fleet is managed, it may be considered rather as a plaything, than as applicable to any serviceable purpose: his officers are about as conversant with nautical affairs as himself. A short time ago, one of the ships being in danger, it was recommended to the officer commanding, that a part of the standing rigging

should be cut away, but he would not allow it to be done, alleging that "it would spoil the look of the ship!"

On anchoring in the Cove, we gave His Highness a salute of eleven guns, which was immediately answered from the shore. Shortly after, Mr. Hunter, a lieutenant in the navy, and Gulaub, a native of India, agent to our Government, came on board to see if they could be of any service.

We asked the Prince if he intended to go ashore, but he declined because he was not on good terms with the Imaum: we heard the cause of difference to be this: Futteh Ali Khan touched at Muscat on his way to India, and the Imaum, agreeably to Oriental custom, supplied his table with whatever was requisite, but Futteh Ali, who is somewhat avaricious, made an application for money equivalent to the food with which he had been supplied. To this, the Imaum replied by sending him a dollar aday! Hence the coolness between their Persian

FUTTEH ALI AND THE IMAUM.

12

and Arab Highnesses!

We heard another

anecdote of these two personages which is characteristic of the distrust which Asiatics have of each other. As Futteh Ali was about to resume his voyage to India, the Imaum went on board his ship to take leave, and a cup of coffee, the indispensable ceremonial of an Eastern visit, was presented; the Imaum accepted it, but suspicious of its contents, emptied them into the sea. The manoeuvre was most likely a necessary one: Eunuchs are notoriously revengeful, and from the few feelings they have in common with other men, are usually employed as agents of death. Futteh Ali is not exempt from the general imputation on those in his situation, and we were told that had the Imaum met the fate he probably avoided by his precaution, he would not have been the first Prince whom our shipmate had relieved from worldly cares.

Our party accompanied the first lieutenant ashore. The beach, up to high-water mark,

INTRODUCTION TO THE IMAUM.

13

was every where covered with oyster-shells: the sea literally swarmed with fish, and the air was almost darkened by the numerous waterfowls in pursuit of their finny prey. We landed at the northern extremity of the town, close to the market-place, through which we passed in our way to the Imaum's palace. As His Highness was at prayers when we arrived, we waited at the house of Mr. Hunter till three o'clock, when we received a message by Gulaub that the Imaum was ready to receive us.

We were admitted through a narrow wicket into a square court. In the middle was a fountain; round it were a few sickly shrubs. Arabs, variously armed, were collected into several groups, some sitting in a circle, others sleeping. In a corner of this court was a ladder like that used in a granary. We ascended to the top, and found there the Imaum, who shook hands with us separately, as we entered a long, narrow, unadorned apartment, where

14

INTRODUCTION TO THE IMAUM.

chairs were placed for himself and guests. Though His Highness understands Persian, and Hindoostany, and, it is said, English, he spoke Arabic, and Gulaub officiated as interpreter. The conversation, as may be supposed, was not of much interest. The Imaum made many inquiries about the ship, and her rate of sailing, and said (in allusion to Futteh Ali Khan), that if Captain Alexander had been alone, he would have gone to visit him. He repeated several times that the English and himself were as one, and that his house, his ships, and all that he possessed, were ours. A boy about ten years of age, who always accompanies the Imaum, was the only person present during the interview, and Mr. Hunter informed us, that it was not his custom to allow his own people to be by, in his conversation with Europeans. Some sherbet, well flavoured with rose-water, was handed round by the eunuch in attendance. It may be worthy of remark, that pipes were not brought in, the