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PARIS FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER.
'HE nouveautés of the season, are for this winter point, a combination of all that fancy can imagine that
rich damasked, brocaded and matelassé materials, is most dainty and coquettish, with all that is most all silk, or silk and wool.
sumptuous and magnificent. Velvet flounces, cut out Costly embroidery is also employed to an extent and embroidered in raised stitch, forming trimmings
676.– New WINTER COSTUME (FRONT). Paper Pattern, 55. 6d.; Flat Pattern, half-price ; to be had of MADAME A. LETELLIER, 30, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.
Slightly trained skirt of dark brown cloth with a deep flounce, closely pleated round the lower edge and bound at the top with brown velvet. Tunic of brown plaid of two shades, with pleated flounce of the plain material and crossway band of brown velvet. The tunic is open at the back, and reeved above a handsome echarpe of brown velvet, which falls nearly to the edge of the train, and is finished off by a unknown for years. Appliqué in velvet, satin stitch of the most extreme elegance. Sometimes the pattern in chenille and floss silk, and raised work in purse is one of large scallops worked in overcast, with three silk over velvet, satin, faille, or cashmere, compose the or five rows of open work circles. All these open most tasteful and distingué of trimmings. It is the work circles worked round in raised stitches are art of ornamentation in the toilet brought to the highest extremely effective over a skirt of pale blue or pink,
mauve, maize, or crimson satin. This embroidered embroidery patterns are worked in satin stitch and velvet is also employed for tabliers or draperies over point d'or, in the style of broderies upon crêpe de silk skirts. The same style of raised and open work chine, with the beading in gold or silver, or even of silk embroidery is reproduced upon black faille, deeply coral, garnet or turquoise. Fancy may indulge in all scalloped out. Very pretty dinner dresses are trimmed its whims. The great point is to be elegant and to with flounces of black faille, scalloped out and em- wear one's toilets with the required grace and demi
rich knotted silk fringe. Jacket bodice of plaid with sleeves of plain brown, the latter having a reeving of brown velvet at the back. Revers and bands of the same material are introduced on the jacket, and knotted fringe of the same make, but narrower than that on the echarpe, completes the trimming. Pleated frill and sleeves of white mull muslin.
broidered in the above style, placed over finely pleated Aounces of coloured silk, forming quillings between the scallops.
Another pretty and elegant style of broderie is worked in raised white silk over mauve, pink, blue, maize, or cardinal faille, or of coloured silk over faille to match. Over white faille, very fanciful Oriental
voltura. All the different styles of broderies we have mentioned are also worked upon white or light coloured cashmere for in-door toilets. It is, in fact, broderie Anglaise applied, for the winter season, to velvet, silk, and cashmere, as it was for the summer, to cambric, toile, and batiste.
Gold, silver, and steel braids are more fashionable
than ever, and are employed of every size and style upon all toilets, both morning and evening, but of course always of a somewhat dressy description ; for simpler costumes there are mohair and fancy braids of every kind, which are combined with fringes to match. Buttons are also to be had of all styles to correspond with braid from the simplest .mohair plait, to the finest gold soutache. Passementerie buttons of black silk with a gold or silver pattern are the prettiest, and are always worn upon man. tles that have anything of either metals in their trimmings.
This month, costumes are all of warm, thick materials, at least all those for the day time, of course, for it is one of the most incomprehensible aberrations of human nature that in the coldest of weathers we wear the lightest and flimsiest materials of an evening
To begin then, with the robe de chambre, we will note one which is called le coire de feu, and which is both elegant and comfortable. It is made of coloured cash. mere, the shape that of a straight paletot in front, and that of a Princesse dress at the back. It is buttoned all the way
down in front with small silk buttons, and has a plain turned-down collar, cuffs, and pockets of a darker shade of cashmere. These are stitched on with lightcoloured silk, and a spray of flowers is worked, also in silk, upon each point of collar and cuffs, and upon the upper and lower part of each pocket. Another, called Le Réveil, is of the same shape, but of a darker shade of cashmere, and lined throughout with flannel. Collar, cuffs, and pockets trimmed with black velvet; bows of black velvet all down the front. Both these very nice robes de chambre can be worn to an early breakfast when no company is expected. The latter has a small cape to match, which may be worn at pleasure. It is far better to wear such a dress, fresh and new, of a morning, than to keep up for such a purpose an oid and shabby dress of some more costly style. The same model is made of striped flannel when it is meant to be solely confined to the bed-room.
In walking dresses, we will mention first a costume of rough-looking English material, which goes here by the name of Nickerbocker, and which is speckled, of two shades of grey or brown. The skirt is made with three gathered flounces, the last only put on with a heading, and each bound round the edge with a bias band of checked white and black or brown Tartan. Tunic trimmed with two wide bias bands of the same. This tunic is drawn tight to the back, where it is gathered up into a narrow puffing. Aumonière pocket at the side, trimmed with the checked material. Long cuirasse lined throughout with red or violet flannel, coming down tightly over the hips, rounded behind, and forming two deep peaks in front. It is edged all round the bottom and up the fronts with a bias band of checked Tartan. Coat sleeve with revers of the same. This costume will be found useful for morning walks and shopping expe
ditions. It can be worn with a cloth mantle, and felt hat or bonnet.
A most elegant costume, for afternoon promenade or visits, is of woollen matelassé and faille. Long faille skirt trimmed round the bottom with a fine plisse, which is much deeper behind than in front, the front part being almost entirely covered with a long and wide tablier of the matelassé material, which is edged round with a handsome net work headed tassel fringe, fastened about midway up the skirt behind, with a large bow of velvet or faille. Cuirasse bodice of the matelassé material with faille sleeves. This dress may be either black, which is always bien porte, or of some dark colour, such as prune, scabieuse, tête de nègre, maroon, bronze, or marine blue.
A handsome mantle, to wear with any dressy town toilet, is of fine Montagnac cloth, with plushy inside. It is a very long paletot, tight-fitted to the waist at the back, and semi-loose in front. A rich double pattern of passementerie goes down the middle of the back, one half goes down each front and each sleeve. The extreme edge is broidered with skunks. A long square pocket is placed on either side, a little to the back. It is edged with fur, and ornamented with double passementerie buttons, and with a bow of grosgrain silk ribbon. The same model is made of black velvet, lined with quilted silk, and merely trimmed round with fur.
The muff should be of fur to match the trimming of the mantle, or even of the same material as the costume, and merely trimmed with bands of fur.
Muffs are not made larger this winter than they were last. Silvery and blue fox, chinchilla, and grebe, are favourite furs. But of course sable is ever the prince of furs. Mantles are so closely trimmed up to the throat that any sort of fur cape or collar becomes unnecessary, but some few boas have made their appearance, and we may reckon them as one more old fashion coming into favour again.
Cloaks lined throughout with fur are more fashionable than ever this cold winter. A favourite model is the Rotonde, an ample mantle of black faille or grosgraia silk, lined with squirrel fur, which lining shows a little beyond the edge all round. There is a small hood at the back, and it is fastened in front with a double clasp of oxidised silver. This style of mantle may be used as a carriage wrap, and be thrown off upon entering a house when one goes to pay a visit. A smaller tight-fitting garment may, in such a case, be worn over it, for the Rotonde, however warm and comfortable, is not particularly elegant in shape, and by no means sets off a lady's figure to advantage.
Dressy bonnets are made this winter of white or very light coloured French felt, trimmed with long ostrich feathers. This is even more dressy than the velvet bonnet. Last winter a lady wore a felt bonnet for everyday toilet, and velvet for best, but now, nous avons change tout cela ; the most elegant of all bonnets is the broad
brimmed halo-shaped bonnet of white or pearl grey felt, and the black velvet capote is incontestibly the simpler one of the two. Indeed, the black velvet bonnet is now quite an everyday affair; and to be accounted elegant a velvet bonnet must be matched in colour to the dress. The chapeau becomes so much a part of the costume that it becomes almost impossible to describe one by itself, and not en rapport with some fashionable dress.
This indeed is no doubt the reason why ladies who prefer a simple style of toilet, either from taste or necessity, are so faithful to the black velvet capote, the ever useful and lady-like chapeau.
The velvet capote is generally made with limp crown and drawn border. , It is trimmed inside with a torsade or bandeau, over which is placed a spray of flowers, or a small bird. Feathers and coques of ribbon outside.
DESCRIPTION OF OUR COLOURED FASHION PLATE.
1. Costume in grey faille and white brocaded silk. Trained skirt, with large box pleat at the back; the front puffed and gathered, is ornamented on the sides with bias folds. Tablier in white brocaded silk, pointed in front, side piece trimmed round with a fold of faille, and a fringe. A puff of grey faille at the back is joined to the tablier. Peplum cuirasse bordered with grey faille and lace at the back. A berthe of faille trimmed with fringe goes round the low bodice which is finished at the top with a lisse frill; in front a small bouquet. A similar
bouquet is placed with a grey feather and aigrette in the hair. Long gloves of pearl grey.
2. Costume in salmon colour faille and white gauze, plain trained skirt, Duchesse tunic, with low bodice, the back simulates the cuirasse, the sides and fronts are of the Princesse shape. The tunic is trimmed round with lace and flowers. A similar wreath is brought across the front of the tablier, terminating at the back of the cuirasse, and on the folds of the white gauze train. A wreath of rosebuds and leaves gathers the folds of this train at two different parts, as shown in engraving. Berthe of gauze, and round it a wreath to match.
Paper Pattern, 55. 6d.; Flat Pattern, half-price; to be had of MADAME A. LETELLIER, 30, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.
Trained skirt of brown grosgrain silk, with deep flounce of the same material arranged to form a heading of a narrow puffing, and stand-up frill. Tunic and sleeveless jacket of striped fawn-coloured serge, trimmed with