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an historical work of great value, “ The Native Races of the Pacific Coast,” in which he describes, from monuments and authentic records, the Mexicans, Aztecs, Peruvians, and other races known to Cortez and Pizarro, and gives a great amount of interesting information respecting the traces of nations anterior to them, but lost to history. We look forward with some apprehension to the prospect of the study of the old Mexican language ever becoming a portion of the modern curriculum of education. Here is a specimen word given by Mr. Bancroft; it is the name of a flower—"mihuiittilmoyoiccutlatonpicixochit).” Imagine the effect of trying to say to a young lady, “ Permit me to offer you this beautiful mihu-etc., etc.” Tom Hood, writing about the old English expressive names of flowers, was rather hard on the botanical nomenclature, and said if people really loved flowers, they would not call them such hard names. What would he have thought of the Mexican word ?
A young woman in America was tried for burglary, not an offence commonly committed by the fair sex. She would not employ counsel, but herself addressed the jury. Her eloquence, aided, perhaps, a little by her good looks, gained a verdict of “ Not Guilty,” in which the presiding judge expressed his concurrence. Then ensued a scene.
The charming accused left the dock, ran to the bench, and embraced the judge, who returned the salate, amid the plaudits of a crowded court. After that, the musical absurdity, “ Trial by Jury,” now being played at a London theatre, in which the judge becomes the accepted lover of the beautiful plaintiff in a breach of promise case, is scarcely a burlesque.
The accomplished and deservedly popular vocalist, Miss Edith Wynne, was married on the 16th to Mr. Agabeg, a barrister, at the Savoy Chapel, Strand, where, a few months since, another charming singer, Miss Antoinette Sterling, was wedded. Very appropriately, on each occasion, there was full musical service. The admirers of Miss Wynne, especially the musical lovers of Wales, her native country, who are justly proud of her, will heartily wish her all happiness, while hoping that her marriage is not an intimation of the retirement from the concert-room of “the Welsh nightingale.”
This is our last chat with our readers in which we this year indulge. Our Magazine will commence 1876, with, we hope, new attractions, among which will be, a new serial tale, short tales, historic incidents of interest, and a new series of biographies, double acrostics and other exercises for ingenuity.
ALWAYS take note of the pretty things, the new
things, and the useful things I see, that I may tell my readers about them in my next letter. One of the prettiest things I have seen for some time is the ALEXAN DRA DIAMOND TRIMMING CORD, manufactured by Binn's PATENT Endless Band Co., Oak Mills, Lowmoor, near Bradford. This cord is intended for trimming dresses, mantles, jackets, hats, and bonnets. It is similar in effect to a row of beads, and shines like satin. It is made in all colours, and would be very effective used as a trimming for dinner dresses of light coloured silks, satin, or velvet. For finishing off cushions and other varieties of fancy work, the Alexandra Cord is invaluable. It can be ordered through any draper, or from any Fancy Repository, which is the “ dictionary" name for what we call a wool shop, in every day parlance.
The hat in the illustration on our next page is a good sample of the union of simplicity with elegance. The sole trimming consists of one long ostrich feather, with a small velvet bow to hide the stem. A good ostrich feather is a valuable possession. It will clean over and over again, and when it does get too thin to do up, it can be laid by till a few more companions, who have also
seen their best days, can be sent with it to be made up all together, into a thick, black feather.
Warm stockings are a necessary luxury (if that be not a contradiction in terms) in this damp weather. They may be had of Messrs. JANNINGS and Sons, 16, Fenchurch Street, at from 4s. to 4s. '6d. per pair, made of ribbed cashmere and supplemented with merino, where they are apt to wear soonest. These prices are those of the best quality. Ladies' undervests are manufactured at the same establishment, in all sizes, in merino, cashmere, and lamb's wool. In fact, all sorts of comfortable, warm things are purveyed by the Messrs. Jannings, including muffs, boas, and ties in all kinds of fur. Their Acmé and Copenhagen Gloves continue to maintain their reputation for good wear, and comfortable fit.
For all sorts of fancy, as well as plain work, I can recommend the cottons manufactured by Jonas BROOK and BrothERS, of Meltham Mills, Huddersfield, and of 49, Cannon Street, E.C., as wearing well and being very pleasant in use.
Madame Adèle Letellier now supplies very pretty initial letters for sewing on the useful little chatelaine bags so much worn. The prices of these letters are 5d. each in italic capitals, about an inch in length, and for old English capitals, larger in size, is. 10d. each letter. They can be sent by post for the usual letter charge.
I have been shown a curious little contrivance among the Christmas novelties of Monsieur Rimmel, 96, Strand. It consists of a rose for the button-hole, to which is attached a long gutta-percha tube, with a ball of the same material at the end of the tube. This ball is filled with scent, and a slight pressure of the fingers upon the ball suffices to send a small jet of the scent in any direction wished by the wearer of the rose. It is called the Gushing Rose, and the price is is. 6d.
A pretty surprise for children is contained in a piece of something resembling the bark of a tree, but one end opens and shows it to contain a fan, prettily painted.
The Japanese mosaic set, containing boxes for gloves, handkerchiefs, and collars, forms a nice present for a gentleman. The price is ros. 6d.
For a lady no present can be nicer than a fan, and they can be had at 96, Strand, in all varieties. Those with a picture on a neutral tint background are really works of art. Figures are more fashionable than flowers. I saw one, representing a young girl standing in a thoughtful attitude, while two Cupids are mischievously threatening her peace of mind. One has climbed a ladder
His Christmas Cards are extremely pretty this year. There is a charming bunch of flowers, whence, on a string being pulled, ten little Cupids spring forth, in various attitudes. Another represents the dreams of the young and the old, on the occasion of the new year—the one looking on into the future, the other back into the past. Many of them show poetic thoughts and fancies.
The half guinea Christmas hamper contains perfumes, crackers, Christmas cards, and ornaments for Christmas trees. The crackers are simply delightful. I opened one that contained a small bottle of “Spirit of Love," which I guessed to be scent, besides a pretty picture and a bon-bon. Others contain sentences in seven languages.
to take better aim, and is fitting an arrow to his bow. The other holds two more arrows to make the attack on her heart quite successful.
A very pretty fan is of carved wood with black satin and peacock's feathers. Real lace fans may be had from four guineas to £25. I was also shown a lovely fan entirely made of mother-o'-pearl, inlaid with gold flowers. Purses and cigar-cases are also popular Christmas presents. They, too, are to had at this delightful establishment.
Wishing my readers many pretty Christmas boxes and many pleasant Christmases, I bid them good-bye
till next year.
ANOTHER AMERICAN COLLEGE FOR WOMEN.
A NEW college has been opened for women, in
Massachusetts, where all the advantages of a university education are offered the students. Wellesley College is the generous gift of a single public-spirited citizen, whose deed is worthy of all imitation. The Massachusetts college was undoubtedly prompted by the success of Vassar (recently described in this magazine), but it is modelled on a somewhat different plan. It aims to give the benefit of higher education to the daughters of the poor as well as the rich. Most of the work in the building is to be done by the students. They will be initiated into the duties of chamber-maids, and into the arts and mysteries of the kitchen. After an arduous demonstration in Euclid, they will be called upon to undertake the preparation of boiled mutton with capersauce, or the rolling out of a faky crust for chicken-pie. Astronomy will be followed by vigorous action with the broom, and the valedictorian of the coming commencement will be pointed out as the young woman with a feather-duster in her hand.
Two points in the higher education of women seem to be accepted as settled. One is, that a full collegiate training is perfectly adapted to the feminine sphere, and the other is that separate colleges are better than the mixed system. The five hundred students at Vassar and the four hundred who have recently entered Wellesley College in Massachusetts abundantly demonstrate that a university education is eagerly sought by the gentler part of creation, and that they prefer to be in classes where their associates shall be those of their own sex. One lady graduated at Cornell University at the last commencement, three at the University of Michigan, and a few others at various small Western institutions; but the total of female graduates throughout the United States would not equal in numbers the late graduating class at Vassar College. Indeed, there seems now to be no enthusiasm for the mixed system. Those who are pledged to its support still sustain it, but rather as a
matter of principle or prejudice than from a strong belief in its practical benefits. Its disadvantages seem to outnumber any possible good that may accrue to the students. The system will never become popular with the female pupils, nor is it likely to be generally endorsed by their parents. At present there is no adequate provision made for the collegiate education of women in institutions of their own, but there is no doubt that it will come by and by, and then the mixed system will be adandoned. Scores of applicants have been turned away from Wellesley and Vassar this year for want of room, and some of these disappointed young women will probably apply for admission to colleges where the men are in the preponderance.
It is to be hoped that the example set by the Massachusetts college, in the matter of household duties, may be imitated elsewhere. The woman who goes into her library with the keys of knowledge in her hands ought also to be qualified to go into the kitchen and direct its workings. There is something attractive to the masculine heart—which is said to lie very close to the digestive organs—in the rosy sophomore rolling out biscuit, and the plump senior measuring raisins for a pudding. The heroes of their dreams would not for the world have these young women despise their books, but still less would they wish to see them ignorant of household duties and neglectful of the cares of home. If training in these useful arts can be made to take, in the case of women, the place occupied by rowing, fencing, and other athletic sports among young men, the college curriculum will be evenly filled out. The friends of advanced education for women believe that it can be done, and have begun their experiment on a grand scale. They deserve success. Their plan aims at the highest usefulness as well as the most extensive culture. If the woman of the future fails to become a good cook and neat housewife, as well as a successful scholar, it will not be for want of opportunity and training.
DAY is dawning. Slim and wide,
Through the mists that blind it, Trembles up the rippling tide,
With the sea behind it.
Mailed in gold and fire he stands,
And with splendours shaken, Bids the sleeping seas and lands
Quicken and awaken.
Like a warrior-angel sped
On a mighty mission, Light, and life about him sted
A transcendent vision.
Day is on us. Dreams are dumb.
Thought has light for neighbour. Room ! the rival giants come
Lo, the Sun and Labour !
IN my last chapter on the subject of Home Millinery
I promised that my supposed pupil should undertake the trimming of a rather more elaborate bonnet than that explained in her last lesson. My readers will admit that the following illustration might appear to present difficulties at the first glance, but with a little explanation on my part, and some attention on theirs, these will soon vanish.
The bonnet is of pale grey felt with turned-up brim, lined with black velvet. On the hair a spray of roses and dark berries. A long grey ostrich feather falls over the bonnet, and above the spray of flowers is one rose and a bright coloured wing. Pale grey damassé ribbon is arranged in loops and ends above and below the brim.
The first thing to be done is to line the brim with velvet, and as the latter must set perfectly plain, it will require some care. The velvet must be cut to the shape of the brim. To do this, lay the shape crown downwards on the table, place the velvet over it, and pin it upon the brim here and there. Then cut it round the outside, leaving a good halfinch of turning all round. Proceed to cut away the inside, leaving an inch of turning. When this has been carefully done, the brim must be lined according to the directions given in our last lesson, taking care to keep the velvet in place upon the brim which it was cut out to fit. This must be attended to, for the back of the brim is narrower than the front. The crown is then lined (see directions in last lesson), and the next thing to be done is to arrange the damassé ribbon. A little practice will soon produce those careless looking folds which look as though they had come there without trouble or intention on anyone's part—not even their own. This is the great art of millinery—to conceal art.
Graceful as feathers and flowers are, they require to be deftly arranged, or they may even look ungraceful. The stem of the feather must always be hidden. The finer the feather, the easier it is to arrange gracefully. Oh, my readers, never buy an inferior feather! They should be
“Not at all, or all in all." If they cannot be of the best, do not wear any. But a good feather will clean, wash, or dye, many times over. They who aspire to be “home milliners " must learn to
wash and curl them themselves. I have never tried to wash a coloured feather, but have frequently succeeded with a white one.
Proceed as follows :- Make some clean warm water it must not be boiling, only warm), very soapy, and squeeze the blue-bag into it three or four times. Shake the feather about in this soapy water, and gently rub it down the middle with the fingers-ot, if very much soiled, with a soft brush —until it is perfectly clean. Then plunge it several times into perfectly clean, cold, soft water, shake it well, and dry it in the sun, if there happen to be any sunshine, or before the
fire, if not. Keep shaking it at intervals until it is perfectly dry. Then take a silver knife—or a paper knife—and curl each frond gently, beginning with the tip. If the feather be
very thick and full, curl some of the fronds over the stem. While curling it, keep shaking it out to the heat, which helps it to curl. It is an operation that requires some patience, but the mechanical skill is easily acquired.
My next lesson shall be devoted to instructing my supposed pupil (I hope I have one!) to make one of the fashionable Rink hats, which are so very becoming and comfortable.
NOVELTIES OF THE MONTH.
the leaves have all fallen, the people have returned to town, and the shops are beginning to look Christmaslike. Here is one crowded with the most beautiful and ingenious toys that ever gladdened childish eyes, another looks perfectly luxurious with its piles of magnificent furs, and further on are windows entirely filled with evening dresses of every delicate tint, while everywhere we are dazzled by the numerous glittering ornaments now so fashionable.
Some one has said that we are back again to the golden age, and if the golden age meant glitter, he was right. It is surprising how much silver and gold is now worn, not only as ornaments but in braids and trimmings. Those upon walking dresses look pretty and (at present) are too expensive to become common, but as trimmning to evening dresses I think they are in better taste.
now looking forward to our Christmas gaieties, and a few words upon the necessary finery will I hope be welcome.
In the first place, what is fashionable? For married ladies rich and heavy materials such as brocaded silks (those of two colours or shades of colour are very elegant) and velvets are best, but for young people we are glad to see that more tulle and tarlatane dresses are being prepared. Nothing is prettier for young girls than white tulle or tarlatane, but both these materials are now made in almost every
shade of colour and have the advantage of lasting a little longer than the white ones. We can supply tarlatane ones either white or coloured prettily and fashionably made for £i 5s., or if with white silk bodice for £ 1 155. I have seen two very pretty dresses for young girls that I will here describe.
One was made of white tarlatane, the skirt covered with pleatings and bouillonnés. The tablier, trimmed to correspond, was drawn up in a coquillé behind with bows of white faille, with a white silk and silver fringe upon the ends. The cuirasse bodice of white silk, cut low and square in front and laced behind, was. trimmed round the edge of the opening with a blonde lace and a bouillonné of tarlatane, and inside with a pleating of crêpe lisse. Bows to match those upon the tunic in front and at the back of the neck. The sleeves, composed of bouillonnés of tarlatane, were trinmed to correspond, with blonde and bows. The price of this dress was three guineas. The other was made of maize tarlatane, the skirt in bouillonnés, with a pleated flounce headed by a ruche at the bottom. Two scarves of maize faille were draped across the front and fastened with bows of the same behind. The bodice, which was made of
faille, was cut low in a point both back and front, and trimmed with ruches and pleatings of tarlatane. Elbow sleeves trimmed with pleated frills, with under sleeves of white silk. The price of this was three and a half guineas.
The evening flowers are exceedingly pretty, particularly those in which gold or silver are introduced. They vary very much in price, but we can send very pretty little half wreaths or sprays for the hair or dress, from 25. 6d. each. With regard to evening boots or shoes, they look much better when matching the dress, and if at any time our subscribers will send sufficient silk (or a pattern and we can procure it) of whatever colour is required, with a shoe as a pattern, we can send them for 12s. an exceedingly pretty pair of shoes with high heels and large satin rosettes. Boots are of a proportionate price, but they are not so fashionable for evening wear as shoes. These little details, boots, gloves, etc., make an immense difference to a lady's toilette, and no one can look really well dressed unless they are in accordance with the costume. In speaking of fichus last month an error was made in our article ; it was stated that they could be had from ros., whereas it ought to have been from 75. They still continue very fashionable, and will be found very useful for Christmas parties and dinners where full evening dress is not required. They are made in every material such as crépe lisse, lace, muslin, etc., but quite the prettiest I have seen were of écru silk net, trimmed with lace to match. This silk net is a novelty, and a very pretty one, and the laces to match are beautiful. With these fichus, knots of black velvet or coloured ribbon are generally introduced ; their price is 7s. 6d. each, or with undersleeves to match and knot of ribbon and lace for the hair, 12s. 6d.
In this magazine Izod's Patent Corsets have been advertised, and I take this opportunity of recommending them to our subscribers as most comfortable, well shaped, and durable ones. This I can testify from personal experience. Their prices vary from 75. 6d. to a guinea, and for those who cannot procure them in the country shops we shall be happy to obtain them in London.
LOUISE de Tour.
For the special benefit of our provincial subscribers, we have just finished arrangements which will enable us to supply them with evening-dresses for the coming season, in book-muslin and tarlatane, in various shades, trimmed with satin, and made in the latest styles, from one guinea upwards, on the shortest notice. Please send measurements with P.O.O., payable to Madame Louise DE TOUR, 30, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.