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Thoughts” celebrity. There is this author's new comedy, entitled “Proof Positive," playing with "terrible success," as the critics used to say of Gay's “Beggar's Opera.” Miss M. Oliver and Mr. George Clarke are very happy in their respective parts, and altogether we think Mr. Burnand may congratulate himself upon the caste he has brought together.
The Royal Park Theatre (late the Alexandra) has also opened its doors, and is dividing its stage between laughable farce and opera-bouffe. Miss Emily Soldene is the great attraction, in her original character of Drogan in “Geneviève de Brabant.” Whether Fortune will shine more favourably on this theatre under its new name, remains to be proved. The management certainly deserve success, for they have made the theatre as comfortable and pretty as we could wish.
“East Lynne” has been revived at the Globe, but the performance calls for no particular notice.
The new historical play, “A Crown for Love," has not fulfilled all that was expected from it. Apropos of this, Mr. Tom Taylor promises another play with a plot from history. It will carry the title of “ Anne Boleyn."
Music still holds the stages. At the Criterion Theatre Lecocq's opera-bouffe, “ Fleur de Thé," is being given in an English garb, Miss Sudlow and Messrs. Fisher and Marshall sustaining the principal, and somewhat difficult, parts with much success. Opera-bouffe also reigns supreme at the Philharmonic Theatre. Offenbach's sparkling“ Les Georgiennes” is just now being performed with a vigour and crispness truly delightful. The orchestra is in excellent condition, and Offenbach at Islington has the good fortune to be not only effectively, but intelli. gently, played.
The great Harvest Festival at the Crystal Palace went off with considerable éclat. The choral arrangements, under Mr. Barnby, were admirably carried out, and gave far more satisfaction than the solos, which were hardly audible. The great building presented a beautiful appear. ance, with its appropriate decorations of corn, cereals, flowers, and fruit, from Messrs. Sutton's great store at Reading.
English opera has ceased to exist at the Princess's. We sincerely hope that Mr. Carl Rosa's venture proved a success, about which, however, we have grave doubts. The interest soon died out; and now Mr. Santley and the rest of the company are off to the provinces. Of the recent performances little mention need be made. “Faust” went off smoothly, and the same may be said of Cherubini's “ Deux Journées,” which seems scarcely so well adapted for translation as an Italian opera.
The production of Balfe's “ Siege of Rochelle " calls for a few remarks. This opera was Balfe's steppingstone to fortune. It was produced for the first time some forty years ago, when Alfred Bunn, surnamed “The Poet Bunn," was the lessee. How such a success ful issue came about it is hard to tell, for all who know or have seen the “Siege of Rochelle” are aware that
from beginning to end, it is little more than a parcel of nonsense. For some reason, however, best known to himself, Mr. Carl Rosa revived the work, and with little better result, we fear, than to impress upon musical folks of to-day the fact that it could never start the fame of a Balfe now-a-days. On its most recent revival, the “ Siege of Rochelle" had the advantage of an excellent caste, but we fear the exchequer results were anything but favourable, notwithstanding this advantage. The caste included Mr. Aynsley Cook, as the Count de Rosenberg ; Mr. H. D. Bates, as the Marquis ; Mr. Santley represented Michel; while Mesdames Cook and Gaysford gave the respective parts of the Princess Euphemia and Marcella. The singing and acting of all these offered but little ground for fault-finding; while Mr. Santley's rendering of the charming ballad, “When I beheld the anchor weighed”—Henry Phillips' old song-needs a word of special praise. Our popular baritone sings this song as no one else can sing it, and to hear this performance is alone worth a visit to the Princess's, and the sitting out of an opera which in many parts is flimsy and weak to the extreme. We must not omit to state that the opera had every chance afforded it for a successful issue. The scenery, the band, the chorus-everything—was perfect. The truth is, that Balfe's music is wedded to an undramatic drama, to which, unhappily, it does not give wings. Admirers of Balfe, however, must not be downcast; greater musicians than he have failed to scale such an Olympus.
At the tiny Royalty Theatre, in Dean Street, Soho, Mr. Charles Morton (now holds the reins of management. The bill of fare still contains opera-bouffe, represented by Offenbach's “ La Perichole," and this is followed by Sullivan's “ Trial by Jury.” Of the recent performances of the former work little need be said. Madame Dolaro still acts and sings with her accustomed skill and taste; the other characters, too, are creditably sustained. In Sulli. van's dramatic cantata, the names that deserve mention are those of Mr. F. Sullivan, the learned Judge; Miss Vernon, the Plaintiff; Mr. Connell, the Usher; and the Foreman of the Jury, Mr. Husk. The chorus, too, is excellent, and so is the band under Mr.Simmonds' direction.
The Covent Garden Promenade Concerts continue to be popular. Herr Wilhelmj has been surprising the visitors with his feats of manipulation in such pieces as Bach's Chaconnes, and some Chopin and Wagner paraphrases, etc. The selections from Verdi's latest opera, “Aida,” have given great satisfaction, and they reflect no little credit upon Signor Arditi, by whom they were arranged expressly for these concerts.
At the Crystal Palace, the Saturday Afternoon Concerts are drawing large audiences. No blame can be attached to Mr. Manns for his selections—they are as varied and as fair as they possibly could be. On one Saturday we have a work of Bach's early days, and on the following one we get a symphony or a movement by some living writer. all schools, too, are justly represented. Only recently we enjoyed a programme with Cherubini's " Anacreon " overture, representing France; Hugh Pierson's Symphonic Prologue to “Macbeth,” fulfilling the same duty for our own country; and, lastly, the German element in the shape of Beethoven's wonderful Concerto No. 4 in G, for pianoforte and orchestra. This latter work brought forward Mr. Charles Hallé, who returns to us with his marvellous executive powers as fresh and brilliant as they ever were. Of recent vocalists at Sydenham we may note the first appearance of the sisters Badia, who promise to become public favourites.
The musical season of 1875-6 may now fairly be said to have started. Mr. Chappel's Monday Populars are shortly to begin ; the Alexandra Saturdays are now going on; one of Mr. Carter's "grand oratorio performances," as he terms them, has already taken place ; Mr. Bache has commenced his recitals, and the Sacred Harmonic Society promise to begin shortly. Yet, where is Mr. Barnby's Albert Hall Choir? Do Messrs. Novello, Ewer, and Co. intend starting some more daily concerts ? We should
say their answer to this question would be “No!"
SOMETHING TO DO.
WOMEN AS TRAINED NURSES.
"A woman is a Nurse by Nature."— THEODORE PARKER.
THE 'HE profession of certificated nurse is one which is
open to none of the objections which make nearly all women recoil with disgust from the idea of having women educated for surgeons or physicians, and at the same time it is a profession for which they are eminently suited, and more especially so when possessed of, the culture, gentleness, and pleasant manners of a gentlewoman. I propose to give here the gist of a sensible and practical leading article that appeared in a daily paper some months ago on this subject. After noticing what an excellent thing it is to train up in hospitals a race of hospital nurses of higher character and more professional knowledge than the majority of the order, the writer calls attention to the want of a class of professional nurses, with thoroughly competent training, with manners and general education qualifying them for the work, to attend the sick in private families. There cannot be a greater blunder than to suppose that the women of every family can do all that is required for a patient in case of sickness, under the doctor's orders. The nurse's work requires less ample and large knowledge than that of the physician; but it needs appropriate knowledge just as much ; and it would be as reasonable to fancy that a father or brother could and ought to prescribe for a sufferer as that a mother, wife, or sister should necessarily be able properly to nurse him. If knowledge were not wanting-clear apprehension of the doctor's orders, capacity to observe, appreciate, and report correctly a change of symptoms, intelligence to avoid serious mistakes, such as untrained nurses constantly commit--the very fact that they are so near and dear, so terribly interested in the result, deprives them of the calm self-possession and steady will essential to good nursing. A doctor prefers to call in other advice for his own family; and yet a doctor's duties are not half
so delicate and trying as a nurse's. The constant presence in the sick-chamber, the fearful strain on the nerves pio. duced by the combination of a demand for incessant intellectual vigilance, presence of mind, wakefulness and physical energy, with a bitter, gnawing anxiety preying upon the heart and brain, render the task of the amateur nurse the heaviest that woman can be called on to perform, and leave us no cause to wonder that when no longer sustained by necessity of exertion women so generally break down under its effects. A patient is better nursed by a professional, if she can be trusted to do her duty with professional zeal and earnestness equal to that of the doctor, and better cheered and refreshed by the visits of relatives who have not been worn out in spirit by watching and labour, and are not, therefore, struggling all the time to repress their feelings and control their tendency to hysterical tears.
The difficulty of procuring such nurses is then pointed out. There are establishments that profess to train them ; but few indeed that give the requisite period of training, and not many that get the right material. The private nurse needs much higher professional knowledge and aptitude than the hospital nurse. The latter sees the doctor at the bedside twice a day; she can call in the resident medical officer whenever there is a critical change; all she has to do is to be obedient and vigilant. But the private nurse sees the doctor generally once a day, and cannot send for him if a change takes place. She must be competent to act rather on the spirit than the letter of his orders; and to do this she must understand both the disease and the treatment; the meaning of particular symptoms, and the course which the physician is pursuing. A year's training is not sufficient for such a nurse; and she requires a higher theoretical instruction than the ordinary nurse. To profit by this she must be originally a woman of education and intelligence, and this is the very class of women who, at present, are too apt to think that no profession but that of teaching is open to them, and that by accepting any other they would lose caste. But the “ Standard " goes on to say “that a first-class nurse like Miss Nightingale or Miss Lees holds a rank hardly inferior to that of a distinguished physician. A lady trained under one of these for three years or so, competent as she would be by that time to undertake the most difficult charges in her profession, would hold a position on which no woman could pretend to look down.
There are scarcely any nurses of this sort; there is a demand for ten times more than can be supplied by existing means of education.”
“The Nightingale School," says the “ Standard,” “provides for volunteer pupils, who, having paid for their education, are, of course, free to do as they please with it, and we trust that its system will be adopted elsewhere. At present, we doubt whether any other school gives a professional training high enough, long enough, and full enough, to produce the kind of professional nurse to which we refer. But at any rate the thing can be done; and the pressure of candidates for such instruction would very soon lead to ample provision for their needs. The situation of a nurse born and educated as a lady, possessing high professional qualifications, and able to claim from a great school a testimony to her proficiency, would be one of dignity and independence; far preferable to that of an unemployed woman left with a bare maintenance, incomparably better than that of a governess, or any member of the few and overcrowded occupations in which ladies can practically engage. She could command amply sufficient remuneration and suitable treatment; and she who is educated to such a profession is in truth provided for.' At present the demand for competent superiors and instructors in nurse schools, hospitals, etc., would absorb all who could be trained; some few years must elapse before any considerable number of such nurses would be at the command of private families. So much the better for the profession. They would be rare enough at first to be able to establish their status and position for years before competition would cause them anxiety or oblige them to consider the humours of their employers."
These are encouraging words, and seem intended for the class for whose benefit these papers on employment were originated.
The followiug information as to training, I quote from L. M. H.'s useful “ Year Book of Woman's Work," a second edition of which has just appeared.
Candidates may enter most hospitals as probationers. A few receive lady pupils who pay. Less than one years training is not to be recommended to anyone, while three
years is the general period for which probationers are engaged—the first year as probationers, the second and third as nurses, with a rising salary. Such are the arrangements at the new Westminster Training School and Home for Nurses, at which I understand there are still some vacancies. Were several ladies to enter together, they would, at any rate, avoid the uncongenial society, which is one of the drawbacks to entering most hospitals as probationers.
The salary, the first year, is £16, with board, lodging, and washing. Application to be made to Miss Merryweather, 8, Broad Sanctuary, S.W.
At the Middlesex Hospital four ladies are received for training. They board and lodge in the Home for Nurses, attached to the hospital, and are charged one guinea a week. Young women are also trained as nurses for other institutions at a charge of 1os. a week.
Ladies are also trained at St. John's Nursing Home and Sisterhood, Norfolk Street, Strand, at St. Thomas' University, Charing Cross, and King's College Hospitals, and at the Children's Hospital in Ormond Street. At St. Thomas', however, all must enter on the same terms, viz., as probationers under the Nightingale Fund.
At the Royal Infirmary, and Royal Southern Hospitals, Liverpool, and at the Infirmary, Leicester (address Miss Burt), ladies can also obtain training. The expense at Leicester is £40 a year, exclusive of washing.
T he profession has thus special advantages. It is not expensive to train for ; it would be encouraged by the medical profession, and approved by the sterner sex; and the position of trained nurse should not affect more injuriously the social position of any gentlewoman than that of governess. Rightly looked upon, both callings are honourable and even sacred.
In a former article I referred to Newnham Hall. On Monday the 18th of October, this New. Ladies' College, situated at the back of the Colleges at Cambridge, was formally opened, and received into its rooms twenty-seven students, the resident mistress being Miss Clough, the sister of the poet. This Hall was much needed, as accommodation could not be found at Girton College. The large number of ladies who go to Cambridge for the purpose of attending lectures could not be provided with lodgings, a difficulty that will now be removed. Newnham Hall has been built, at considerable cost, by a number of persons interested in promoting the higher education of women, who have formed themselves into a limited liability company for that purpose. The payment for one term's residence at the Hall is to be €20. There are some exhibitions and scholarships, which are open to competition and can be held by lady students at the Hall. Those ladies who intend to make teaching a profession will be allowed to attend the lectures.
OUR WORK ROOM.
RULES AND REGULATIONS. All letters re- Rose ELIZABETH writes-Will black velvet and very upright, which is the reason the dress quiring answers in the following month's issue and black silk polonaises or tabliers be worn over does not suit her, as it makes her look like a must be forwarded to SYLVIA, CARE of EDITOR,
coloured skirts this winter ? [No.] And will poplar tree. All the puffings are cut so that the Messrs. Ward, Lock, & Tyler, Warwick House,
black straw hats be worn ? [Yes.] What kind dress could not be dyed, and Marguerita is afraid Paternoster Row, E.C., before the 5th of each
of muff would be suitable for a lady of twenty. will prevent it from being made up in any other month. 2. All letters asking questions should be
three? [Any kind she likes.] Could one wear fashion ; but as Sylvia is so clever, she may have written on one side only of the paper, and a
a velvet mantle trimmed with corded silk, or some plan of her own. Marguerita is so delighted space should be left for each answer.
ought one to have fur for winter? [Corded silk with the journal that she wishes it would come 3. In writing for advice as to the making up can be worn in winter.] Will those little round out every week instead of every month. Try and altering of dresses, it is advisable to men- velvet hats that look like boys' caps, be as and answer in November. [Full tabliers suit tion height, complexion, and colour of hair, in fashionable for ladies this winter as they were slight people like yourself, much better than order that the best combinations of colour may last? [Turban hats were not fashionable last trimmed skirts. I should make the dress into a be given.
winter, but they will always be worn, more or pretty walking costume as follows:--Get six 4. Photographs sent for this purpose cannot be returned, unless accompanied by a
less, in furs or velvet.] What coloured bow yards of brown and grey checked material rather
should one wear at the throat with a dress of the similar to that of your dress. Cut out a tablier stamped directed envelope. 5. Letters for the Work-room must be
enclosed pattern. [The very palest blue.) And from the check, long and full, which trim with written on separate paper from those intended
is it too old-looking for a young lady of twenty- che puffings which are at present up the front of for the Drawing-room or the Exchange Column. one ? [No.]
your dress. For a short skirt you can spare a No charge is made for replies to any ques- Lilla has enough grey merino (pattern en
width from the back of your skirt, and some tion in the Work-room: it is open to all comers, closed) to make a pulonaise or skirt, and she material will be cut off the length of the other and all are welcome.
would like to know which would be best for her back 'widths. With all this you can cut the As we give elsewhere all the latest informa
to make of it, and what she could wear with it, principal portions of the basque bodice as given in tion as to modes and styles, we cannot answer and is it too light for winter? Lilla is short, and our pattern for two colours in June. The other questions as to the way of making up, new materials, except when the quantity is so
rather slight. [It is more suitable for a polonaise portions will be in the check. Your present limited as to require contriving, in which case
than for a skirt. Wear it over velveteen of a sleeves will do, trimmed with a cuff of the we are glad to give our best help. .darker grey.]
check. Gather the tablier up the front, and put MARIE writes—Dear madam, seeing the
small bows and ends of the brown material down kindness with which you answer all questions the front, Gather it also on the hips, and drape As we are anxious to give ladies every assist- asked by your subscribers, I have ventured to it gracefully at the back. This style will not ance in making their own dresses, we are glad solicit your kind advice and assistance. I have a only suit your figure better, but will agree more to announce that courses of lessons in practical black crape cloth dress, which has been very with your pale complexion and dark hair, than an dressmaking and cutting out are given at 30, little worn; skirt walking length, body attached to entirely brown dress.] Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. Lessons on skirt, a small tunic and loose walking jacket, with
Eunice wishes to know if Sylvia will kindly Home Millinery will also be given shortly at the wide sleeves, the skirt has back and front width, tell her the best way to trim and brighten up a same address. Ladies intending to join these and one pair of gores; the material is 40 inches dress like pattern enclosed. It is made with classes are requested to communicate with wide. Can this material be worn out of mourn- jacket-body apron, and a large square one at the Madame A. Letellier, 30, Henrietta Street, ing if dyed? If so, I would like it dyed plum back (very ugly), and perfectly plain skirt, no Covent Garden, who will gladly supply necessary colour if possible, or what would you advise? trimming being on the dress whatever, and blue information as to terms, hours of classes, etc. [It would dye a dark purple, or a dark Navy is the only colour that suits Eunice's tall figure,
An AMERICAN SUBSCRIBER asks--For what blue.] Also, will you kindly give me a few fair hair, and complexion. [Trim it with a purposes the Macramé lace is used in England; hints as to how it could be made up prettily : pretty dark and light grey checked material, with she has used it only for brackets. Will the editor could it be mixed with something warm, such as a bright blue line running through them. They please give some point lace patterns for brackets, velvet, as I should want to wear it out of doors ? have them at Peter Robinson's from Is. 60. tidies, etc. (Macramé lace may be used for [If you have it dyed dark purple, you might have per yard. Wear pretty blue bows with it in trimming bed-hangings, and even knitted quilts. it made up with velvet or velveteen of the same your hair and at the throat. Could you not cut I fancy it is much the same as the old-fashioned colour. Your loose walking jacket would perhaps off the corners of the ugly square tablier, and work that our grandmothers called knotting. make a tight basque jacket, if you prefer that.] draw it up with tapes, so as to drape more graceYou should send twelve stamps to the Manager, I am going to trouble you still further. In your fully?] Bazaar Office, 32, Wellington Street, for the article entitled “Novelties of the Month," you Idalia writes — Dear Sylvia, I have a doveMacramé Lace Book, which contains many good mention a serge dress which can be had from coloured French merino dress skirt, a little way patterns and clear instructions.]
Madame De Tour, trimmed with rows of braid, on the ground at the back, made with a deep H. F. H. would feel obliged if Sylvia would at a guinea and a half each. If I sent for one pouff, jacket bodice, coat sleeves. The dress tell her whether there is a band to form a collar must I send my pattern to Madame De Tour, or has just been made a year, but I have never had to the pattern of night dress in the September how does she ensure the dress fitting? If you it on, as the dressmaker was desired to trim it number of The Young ENGLISHWOMAN. (The will kindly answer these questions I shall be with a nice contrasting colour, and instead she band consists of a straight piece of calico, width much obliged to you. (You can have the bodice matched it abominably; so I took the trimming according to taste.) H. F. H. has tried the
made by sending your measurements round the off and put it on another dress that it suited, crochet pattern No. 533, but the directions are waist, shoulders, and length of back.]
and put the other one away. I should like it so vague that she cannot make it out. (The Will Sylvia kindly tell MARGUERITA what trimmed with black velvet, but cannot go to directions are not so full as usual, but I have just she can have done to the dress like the enclosed much expense; and as I shall have to do it myself, managed to do a pattern from them. It makes pattern, which she bought in the spring, but has I should be glad if you would tell me how. Must a pretty little pattern, though not exactly like the been very little worn because she disliked the make. I use piece or ribbon velvet? Will you kindly illustration, I confess.] H. F. H. has taken It is made with puffings all down the front, and tell me how I must trim it, and how much THE YOUNG ENGLISHWOMAN some time, but has three puffings round the back, about a quarter o: velvet it will take? [Piece velvet looks best, not asked any questions before. She finds it a yard from the bottom. The back is long, but but is rather troublesome to put on, in inexvery useful and entertaining. H. F. H. has tied up with tapes at the waist; then there are perienced hands, as it must all be put onon the cross recently lost her husband; as she is quite a young two long sash ends, with puffings round, and and lined. It is also more expensive than ribbon woman, is it peculiar to wear a hat on the beach some smaller loops without them. The body is velvet. I cannot tell you how much velvet to in hot weather, as the bonnet and fall are so very quite plain, but the sleeves and band are trimmed get, without knowing where the trimming is to heavy? (It is not usual, but is quite excusable in with brown satin, which is too much worn to use go. Your dress would be more fashionable if such hot weather as we had when you wrote in again. Marguerita is 5 feet 4 inches; has dark trimmed with narrow close pleatings of itself, or September.]
brown hair, and a pale complexion, and is thin, a darker shade of grey in merino or silk. Black
velvet on colours is not much worn just now.] left hand, which will get very cold out of the longer.] And now, dear Sylvia, I am afraid I Could I trim a homespun polonaise with knotted protection of the muff!] And also, whether am tiring you, but I know how good you are. wool fringe ? Can you tell me the price of it? the pleated cuffs for sleeves are cut straight or on [If you write again, please keep to the rules.] [Yes. From is. 6d. per yard. What would Ma- the cross? (Straight.]
Honor will feel obliged if Sylvia will give dame Letellier charge for the flat pattern of the EMILY would like to know if Sylvia would her some directions regarding some cretonne polonaise, on fig. 548 of this month's magazine ? kindly tell her with what she could trim a large work, as she is thinking of doing some. Could I have it cut with sleeves ? Apologizing tight-fitting silk velvet out-door jacket, nearly 1. Should the satin be stretched on a frame? for troubling you, and hope I am in time for an new; it is now trimmed with gimp and lace. Emily [No. It is tacked on linen and worked in the answer in the November number. [The price is would like it trimmed with something to make hand.) 2. Where can the cretonne be purgiven under the illustration, 2s. 9d. for the flat it look warmer for winter, but is afraid sable chased suitable for the work? [Messrs. J. and pattern. You could have it with sleeves.] would be too expensive, and does not like J. Simpson, 89, Newgate Street.] 3. After the
VIOLET presents her compliments to Sylvia, imitation fur. [Fox is not so expensive as sable. group is cut out, should it be pasted or gummed and would she kindly say in the November Or you might trim it with uncurled ostrich on the satin, and how is this to be done most Work-room what will be the most fashionable feathers. Chinchilla or opossum would perhaps satisfactorily? [Paste is better than gum. It reshape for winter bonnets. Will they have turned- suit your purse.]
quires to be done very neatly, but you need not up brims ? [So far as I can tell so early in the MYRTALE writes-Dear Sylvia, I have not be particular to paste down all the edges, as the season, the shapes will be various. The rather before troubled you, but should be very glad if stitches will keep the cretor ne down.] is there small shape with round brim will probably be a you would now give me your kind advice on one any book of directions published, and where can it favourite.) And will bats have turned-up brims, or two things. Some time since I noticed pearl be procured? [I do not know of any book of or will they have broad brims, and be worn down powder recommended to a correspondent for directions. The work has been described more on the forehead ? [They are beginning to be whitening the teeth. I procured some from a than once in THE YOUNG ENGLISHWOMAN, It worn forward again.) What kind of veils will chemist, who said he should not like to advise its is not difficult, but requires taste in the arrangebe most fashionable? [The small untrimmed use for the teeth ; and I want to know if it is ment of the birds, leaves, and flowers.] mask veil of net, most probably.] Are beaded some particular kind; and if so, where can I VERENA writes—Will Sylvia kindly advise ones still worn? [Very little.] Is borax good obtain it? [I never heard of pearl powder being me what kind of jacket to have this winter. I for softening hard water? I mean the water one used for the teeth. Will you kindly let me want black, and one that will be useful for some washes in, or does it injure the skin ? [I do not
know in what number it was recommended ?] time to come? Will the double-breasted pilo: know, but can recommend a bag of oatmeal to I have a grey felt hat which has been very little jackets be fashionable this winter? [Cloth be kept in the jug.] Does Sylvia mean to say worn, what would be the best shape to have it jackets will be fashionable. They will be worn that taking a small supper is injurious to the com- altered? I am rather short, eighteen years of rather long, and trimmed with braid, passeplexion? (Surely Sylvia never implied such a thing. age, and have an oval face. The Tyrolese and menterie, or fur. 2. Naturally you get hot when I think a slight supper is a necessary meal for those Lorne shapes used to suit me, is there not some you dance. I know of no remedy.] Will some who dine early, but rich, hot suppers injure the such shape being worn now? (Hats will be one send the words of “Robin Adair.” (Please digestion, and consequently, the complexion.] worn rather high in the crown this year. Brims send a stamped addressed envelope, that the words
C. H. M. is very grateful to Sylvia for ber straight, curved, and turned up, every variety.), may be forwarded to you.] kind advice, and ventures to trouble her a second I have a handsome cashmere jacket, tight-fitting* E. A. J. presents her very kind regards to time. C, H. M. has some black net, with a in the back, with basques beautifully trimmed, Sylvia, and would be glad if she would tell her small round spot on it, that she would like to but the fronts are perfectly plain, and reach what kind of jacket will be worn this winter? make into a sleeveless jacket and tablier. Would scarcely below the waist. Please could I in any Her income is not large, and she can only afford the jacket need to be lined, or could she make it way lengthen them by adding a piece on? I am about 215., 25., 30s., or 355., and she does without a lining? Does Sylvia think it would be always obliged to wear jackets on account of not know at all what to choose. 2. Also, what an improvement to bead the jacket and tablier ? feeling the cold in my arms. [You might put kind of dress would be serviceable and look nice [Net is scarcely strong enough to bear the weight pieces to the fronts, and cover the joins with for church, and generally for best, what material, of beads. The jacket ought to be lined with trimming to match that on the back basques.]
The trimmings and way of make E, A. very thin black muslin. It would wear a very Should not coat sleeves of dresses be cut very J. can always gather from the magazine. (Cloth short time if made without any lining.)
small, so as to almost fit the arms tightly? jackets will be fashionable this winter. Are you Mary will be greatly obliged if Sylvia will [Very narrow indeed.] And are puffed sleeves skilful enough to cut one out by the pattern given give her a little advice. Mary has been in mourn. still fashionable? (Pleats are more fashionable
this month? If so, it would be cheaper to buy a ing fifteen months for her dear mother. She than puffs, laid on quite flat, either lengthwise or good cloth, and have it made at home. The wishes to know if she can wear a black velveteen round the arm.) Can you tell me how to fashionable trimmings are braid, passemeaterie, dress and black and white checked tunic for the remedy the following? I have a grenadine
uncurled ostrich feathers, or fur. A very dark coming winter ? she having a large cloak which bodice, made with basques back and front, but blue cloth keeps the colour better than a black she thinks she can convert into a tunic, if Sylvia being so thin a material, if it is fastened mode- If you cannot make a jacket yourself, you thinks it will be sufficient mourning. (It will rately tight it gives, and being worn so loose it should be able to buy a pretty good cloth onc be sufficiently deep mourning.) makes my waist look so thick. Can I wear a
trimmed with braid for 355. A good tailor Sallie would feel greatly obliged if Sylvia satin waistband with it, or would it be better to usually makes ladies' jackets a better fit than you would advise her what to do with a French take away the front basques, and then wear a can buy them ready made. I am about to inmerino dress like pattern enclosed. It is nearly band? [Tuck the basques in under the tunic, quire prices of one or two, and will let you know as good as new, but being in mourning nearly or skirt, and wear an oxydized chatelaine belt.]
next month. Serge, cloth, vivogne, rep, every winter since she has had it, it is very old- Should dresses be made high in the neck, and
satin cloth, or winter homespun.] fashioned. Would. Sylvia advise her to have it tightly closed up for out-of-door wear? [Yes. ] dyed ? (Yes.] And what colour ? [Navy blue And is it considered vulgar to wear collars rather or prune.] Would it dye navy blue, brown, or loose and open for indoors ? [No, but it is not
HOME DRESSMAKING. dark green? [Any of these.] And which will good taste to wear them so in the street.] Can MADAME ADELE LETELLIER begs to anaounce be most fashionable this winter? [Navy blue you or the clever editor (whom we seem to that ladies can have their own materials fitted and prune.) Can it be dyed without unpicking? expect to know everything), tell me if there is at 30, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, at a [Most probably.] It is trimmed with black velvet any means of preventing myself feeling the cold moderate charge, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and and fringe; could that be dyed the same colour in the water, I am learning swimming, and Fridays, from ten to one o'clock. as the dress ? [No. Black will not dye to the thoroughly enjoy it but for this one thing. When A course of lessons in Practical Dressmaking same shade.) My height is 5 feet 3 inches; am I have been in the water about ten minutes I for ladies, cutting out, etc., will be given at the air, auburn hair, and rather stout. Would like shiver dreadfully, and turn bluey white; some- above address, on Mondays and Wednesdays, from to wear it with a black velvet bonnet, trimmed times my fingers go dead, however active I may two to half-past three o'clock, by an experienced with very pale blue. Would be so obliged if be, and if I dip my head much, I have an dressmaker. answered in the November number of The intense headache afterwards. It does not arise Ladies intending to join these classes are reYOUNG ENGLISHWOMAN.
from timidity, for I never feel the slightest fear, quested to communicate with Madame Adele AIGUILLE will be glad if Sylvia would kindly and shall be intensely disappointed if I have to Letellier, 30, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, tell her if the Bulgare pleats for outdoor dresses give it up. [It arises from defective circulation. to terms, etc. will be worn during the coming winter? [Yes, You should come out of the water immediately Marmion's DENTILANE, an excellent and though not a very convenient style for outdoor you begin to feel so cold. Then, perhaps, after refreshing wash for the teeth, may be had at go, dresses. The short train will be held up in the awhile you may gradually be able to remain in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.