Page images
PDF
EPUB

ing opinions were unanimous in its favour. Of “ Evangeline " we may speak as high, while all are more or less acquainted with Miss Zimmerman's charming composi. tions. What further proof, then, need be given of woman's power to grasp this science? We hope to see harmony and counterpoint a recognized feature in the education of the daughters of the wealthy. What a fitting occupation it would open to them! There would be nothing infra dig. about it; nay, on the other hand, what admiration would not the possession of such an accomplishment command? In schools the rudiments of the science should be taught to boys and girls too, and then we should have more native talent.

As teachers, too, woman could find much to do upon properly qualifying herself in one of the branches indi. cated. It is not necessary to dwell upon her greater fitness to teach her own sex, the preference many girls

have to a lady teacher, if a good one can be found, and other equally plain reasons. We must conclude.

If the theories of some are upset by what has been said, generally it will be admitted that woman could follow music more than she now does, in every branch. We sincerely hope she will raise herself up here, and, before many years, have made a perceptible stride in the right direction. The National Training School for Music -when we get it !-should educate girls in all the branches of music, and not confine them alone to singing and the pianoforte. This will tend to unite the future relations of women and music. Still, the best and safest way to do a thing is to do it oneself; and woman had better continue her progressive policy in this direction, and then we may hope some day to see far closer relations than now exist between women and music.

C.

SYLVIA'S LETTER.

sible, so that by turning the back to the front, they may be worn as bonnets. This is a convenient style where economy has to be studied, and where a bonnet is necessary for church.

Silk or velvet forms the prettiest binding for felt hats, but sometimes a kind of braid or gimp is used that looks

very well.

IN
N the “ Work-room" this month will be found many

questions as to the shapes of jackets and bonnets for the coming season, and the general style of dress that will prevail. Though this information is always given in our letter from Paris, I may say a few words on the subject here, for the benefit of those who prefer to hear what will be worn in London to reading of what is worn in Paris. Sometimes there is much difference between the two, and it is quite possible to order a bonnet from Paris, and find that it is “nowhere" in the race of fashion.

Felt bonnets and hats will be the most fashionable this winter. The shapes vary very much. Some of the bonnets are very stiff and formal-looking in the hand. Others are of a pretty, long, oval shape, fitting closely to the back of the head. But invariably the trimmings are high in front and low at the back. Velvet, silk, lace, and feathers are the principal trimmings. Birds will be used more than flowers, which, with the exception of chrysanthemums and winter berries, are unseasonable. The undyed ostrich feathers, in brown and grey, are much used in trimming the brown and grey felt hats. Cream-coloured felt will be worn, but this will be reversed for occasions when a very handsome walking or driving costume is

Dresses are worn still tied back. Tabliers are not so long as they were, and there is an indication of a return to the tunic style. The over-skirt is long at the back, slightly draped, but not bunched up. The ends fall over the train, and the favourite trimming seems to be tape fringe. There could scarcely be a prettier or more graceful trimming than fringe, and the wavy tape fringe looks pretty on any material. The colours for next season are extremely dark, almost black. Dark purple, dark blue, dark green, and deep claret, look like black in the shade, and only show the colour in a side light. The effect is very handsome, especially in silk, velvet, or velveteen. When the bonnet or hat is made to match, these costumes are infinitely ladylike and becoming, if a trifle sombre.

Jackets will be worn long; in fact, they are paletots. Cloth will be much used for them, and the favourite shape seems to be tight at the back and with loose fronts. Fur is the principal trimming-all the varieties of fox, beaver, otter, and sable. Sealskin jackets will not be worn, but yield the pas to silk or cashmere lined with squirrel, and trimmed with fur or not, at will. The long circular cloaks of silk or cashmere lined with squirrel will be very fashionable again this winter. They are expensive, but

necessary.

The hat or bonnet must match the costume. If a brown beige dress is worn, let the hat be of brown felt. If a stone-coloured homespun, trimmed with brown, compose the dress, the hat should be of stone-coloured felt trimmed with brown, or of brown felt trimmed with stone-coloured silk or velvet. Some bats are made rever

good time. It is sometimes difficult to think of suitable presents for brothers, fathers, and other gentlemen friends,

extremely comfortable, and not too heavy to be worn when walking

It is very difficult to combine lightness with warmth in our winter costume. One is too apt to suppose that a material must be warm because it is thick, but very often superior warmth may be found in a light material which is all wool or silk. The eider-down quilts and skirts are simply invaluable as being at once warm and light. For comfort and health they are equally to be recommended. I hope to return to this subject in my next letter.

Apropos of warm clothing, I may revert for a few moments to the comfortable garments for winter wear produced by MESSRS. SKINNER, 1, Cox's Court, Little Britain. These are the Albani Saxony flannel vests, knickerbockers, and petticoats. They are made in two qualities, in white and scarlet. The best quality is in a superior flannel, thoroughly shrunk, and the lower quality from a medium flannel. They are all embroidered. The knickerbockers and petticoats are made both with plain

[graphic]
[graphic]
[merged small][merged small][graphic]

NEWSPAPER FOLIO.

and shaped bands. Messrs. Skinner's Albani specialities resemble home-made goods. They are neatly finished, full sized, and really well made, the cut and finish being especially studied. The tournures of this well-known firm for the coming season are designed to throw the skirt out at the back only. The Bohemian, the HalfDudley, the Dudley, and the Sunderland are made in a superior camlet. The Dudley model is made with three partitions, and can be made larger or smaller in either part to suit the wearer-a very ingenious idea.

I have been requested to mention that during the rebuilding of 308, High Holborn, MR. EDWARD Tann will carry on his paper collar business at 114, High Holborn, close to Southampton Row.

We shall soon begin to make our Christmas presents a subject for consideration. Those who like to put their own work on their presents must commence them in

CARD-RACK.

for keeping a file of newspapers. It is very difficult to keep newspapers and magazines tidily until they are ready for binding, so these folios are found extremely useful. The stand of gilt cane is fifteen inches high, and eighteen broad. The folio is opened and closed by means of cord and tassels of blue wool and silk, and is ornamented in the centre by a strip of embroidery on black satin. The cornflowers are worked in satin stitch with three shades of blue purse silk, the wheat-ears with gold thread and maize purse silk. The leaves, grasses, and stems are worked with green shaded silk, partly in satin stitch and partly in point russe. The embroidery has on each side crossway puffings of blue satin. Lining and bows of blue satin.

The next is a pretty waste-paper basket, the framework of which is of polished black cane, ornamented with gold studs. This frame is lined with folds of dark green taffetas, and has four panels of cardboard, covered with green cloth, on each of which is worked a design

with gold thread and green purse silk in satin and overcast stitch. Round the inner edge of the basket is a box pleating of green taffetas, and through the cane ring on each side is passed green silk cord, which is looped up here and there with tassels.

This dainty card-rack may be entirely made at home by those who have a taste for carving in wood, It is carved in common wood, and then stained brown. It has three partitions for the reception of the cards. The lower part of the case has a needle cushion attached, of which the cover is embroidered on brown taffetas in point russe with yellow purse, silk. The cushion itself is filled with emery, and edged round with brown silk cord arranged into a bow at the top, and finished off with four tassels of brown silk.

We hope to give some other pretty designs in our December number.

SYLVIA.

[blocks in formation]
[merged small][merged small][merged small][graphic]

623.-CHAPEAU "MASANIELLO."

MADAME DE Tour will supply these Bonnets at a reasonable price. This pretty and fanciful coiffure owes its name rather to the trimming than to the shape. The bonnet itself is merely a slight modification of the “ Pamela," trimmed with a triangular scarf of netted purse silk ; in the original a rich maize colour, the scarf is edged with knotted silk fringe of the same colour, and arranged on the bonnet as shown in the illustration. Below the brim a strap of black velvet, on which is a half wreath of daisies. The same flowers are introduced in clusters, and falling sprays on echarpe above the brim and at back.

brocaded fabrics the favour of ladies of elegance. Cloth, merino, and cashmere are still preferred by a large number of them for winter toilets. Indian cashmere especially, for it well deserves its reputation of being the most durable, softest, and altogether most

continue in the fashion, while more fanciful fabrics are but the caprice of a season.

Indian cashmere can be had in all shades of colour, and is equally suitable for walking or indoor costumes, robes de chambre, children's frocks, visiting toilets,

[merged small][merged small][graphic][merged small]

Bonnet of clay-coloured selt, with raised brim lined with brown velvet. Bows of velvet and pale yellow asters rest upon the hair. Ostrich feathers of the same shade as the velvet, grosgrain ribbon of a paler tint than the felt, ecru coloured lace, and a spray of asters at the back, complete the trimming.

thick and durable as this cloth, and much warmer, composes charming Princesse dresses, looped up over a velvet skirt. Tunics of this style are often finely braided with silk soutache, combined with gold or silver. Nothing can be more elegant for a dinner or evening toilet than such a tunic of some pretty light shade of colour, and richly braided; it should be slightly draped up on one side with a silk and gold cord, and tassels suspending a reticule bag of embroidered velvet or faille, and edged round with a handsome fringe to

handsome and comfortable mantle for driving to the bois or to pay visits on a cold day.

Next we admired a velvet paletot trimmed round with a border of curled black ostrich feathers, forming a heading to a deep edging of black silk guipure lace. The trimming is finished upon the fronts and sleeves, with wide bows of black grosgrain ribbon. A long ornament of rich silk passementerie is placed down the middle of the back, and terminates in a wide bow of ribbon.

« PreviousContinue »