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No. 38. APPLIQUE LACE TRIMMING FOR MANTLES, ETC.
This effective trimming is embroidered on a ground of black tulle, with an appliqué of black areophane or silk grenadine outlined with black soutache. The principal part of the embroidery is worked in satin stitch, but overcast and lace stitches are also er ployed, the latter being embroidered with silks of different thicknesses. The trimming is then worked round with buttonhole stitch and purls, and the appliqué and the tulle itself are cut away as the Illustration directs. No. 39. ETUI FOR NEEDLES AND COTTON ORNAMENTED
WITH POINT RUSSE. This pretty and useful souvenir consists of a strip of canvas ten inches long and one and a half inch wide, lined on the one side with brown sarsanet, and embroidered on the other side with brown chenille and brown filoselle in point russe. The inside is then fitted up with small leaves of vandyked flannel, and reels of cotton fastened in with brown soutache. No. 40. TOBACCO Pouch, WITH CASE FOR CIGARETTE
PAPERS. The lower part is composed of two pieces of cardboard covered with brown silk, between which the cigarette papers are placed, and fastened by a button and loop as in Illustration; the top or pouch is in the form of a bag drawn up with silk cord, and embroidered with coloured silks in satin stitch and point russe.
No. 41. INFANT PIQUE BIB. Baby's bib of white piqué trimmed with a strip of batiste embroidered in knotted stitch, and with an edging of white lace. No. 42. EMERY CUSHION IN SHAPE OF A SAILOR HAT.
The original of our illustration is crocheted with black purse silk in double crochet. The hat is begun in the centre of the crown, with 6 chain stitches closed into a circle, and eight rounds of double crochet are then worked over black cotton cord. In the ist of these rounds, 2 stitches are crocheted into every foundation stitch; in the following rounds the number of stitches are increased, so as to keep the work fiat. In the 9th to the 13th rounds, inclusive, the number of stitches is neither increased nor decreased. In the ist round of the brim 2 stitches are crocheted in every other stitch, and in the remaining 5 rounds the number is increased as required by the work. The crown of the hat is then filled up with a little emery cushion, and below this is strips of cardboard lined with black sarsanet, and ornamented with a narrow blue ribbon and an anchor. Nos. 43, 44.
POINT DE VENISE EDGINGS. These edgings are worked on a ground of mull muslin ; the stitches used are satin and overcast, the venetian bars and purls are worked in the ordinary way, and the central parts of the design are in lace stitch. Finally the mull muslin is cut away, as shown in the Illustration.
No. 45. LADIES' EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEFS.
In our present Illustration we give designs for a novel and beautiful style of handkerchief border. The borders are of batiste écru, or if intended for mourning, can be embroidered in black and white, the centre of the handkerchief being of fine cambric. The embroidery is worked partly with coloured thread or zephyr wool ; partly with white embroidery cotton in satin stitch. The outlines are worked round with buttonhole stitch.
Nos. 46, 47, 53, 54. EMBROIDERED EDGINGS. These edgings for underlinen are embroidered on a ground of lawn, batiste, or mull muslin, in satin, buttonhole, and overcast stitch. The lace stitches are then worked with thread according to the Illustration, and the ground cut away as required.
No. 48. PEN AND PENCIL TRAY. The tray itself is of oxydized silver, lined with brown Russian leather, and ornamented with appliqué embroidery
of dark brown silk on a light brown cloth ground. The stitches used are satin and overcast.
Nos. 49, 51. EMBROIDERED INSERTIONS. The ground required for both insertion's is lawn, batiste, or mull muslin. The simpler pattern of No. 49 is embroidered wholly in satin and overcast stitch. For No. Ŝi the design is first traced on the material selected, and the work proceeded with as follows :-Go over the outline of the ribbon pattern with embroidery cotton, work the bars with buttonhole stitches of thread, and the outlines with overcast. The remainder is worked in satin, plain, and overcast stitch. The wheels are edged with buttonhole stitch, and the ground cut away from the central bars, as shown in our Illustration.
SQUARE FOR ANTIMACASSAR. This square would look very effective joined to embroidered muslin square for antimacassars. It is darned with glace cotton on fine Brussels net, and edged all round with close buttonhole stitch.
No. 52. INSERTION FOR UNDER-LINEN. This pattern à l'antique is embroidered on mull muslin, batiste, or fine lawn, in overcast and lace stitch. The broader outlines being worked in buttonhole stitch.
The ground is then cut away from beneath the embroidery. See Illustration. No. 55. EMBROIDERED BORDER FOR BASKETS, MAPS,
Satin stitch and chain stitch. The embroidery is worked on a ground of coloured cloth, rep, velvet, or cashmere, with two shades of purse silk, in satin and chain stitch.
No. 56. EMBROIDERED PEN-WIPER. The pen wiper, which is fitted with a black brush, consists of a square box of cardboard, the sides of which are graduated so as to be narrower at the top. The box is covered with dark brown Russian leather, and has in front a monogram, or initials, embroidered in satin and overcast stitch, with brown purse silk, on a ground of brown cloth.
No. 57. LADIES' EMBROIDERED AUMONIERE. This elegant little pocket is intended to be worn à la chatelaine. The pocket itself is of black velvet, lined with silk, and richly embroidered in satin and chain stitch, with black purse silk. It is then spangled over with small silver beads, and edged round with black fringe. The completed pocket is then fitted with a steel rim and clasp.
No. 58, 62. ORNAMENTAL TOWEL HORSE. The framework of this stand consists of black polished cane, ornamented at the ends, with mother of pearl studs. The length of the frame is twenty-three inches, and the height nine inches. At the back there are small hooks for hanging up brushes, etc. The towel is hung over the front bar. The back is fitted with cardboard, covered with dark grey satin, and ornamented with an embroidery of pale grey satin. The leaves are in appliqué of grey taffetas, surrounded with buttonhole stitch in grey purse silk. The rest of the embroidery is worked with two shades of grey purse silk, in satin, overcast, and chain stitch. The stand is fastened to the wall like a bracket, and therefore is specially designed for small rooms, as it takes up much less space than the ordinary towel horse.
Nos. 59 to 61. EMBROIDERED LETTER CASE. The case is made of fawn-coloured corded silk, and lined with white moiré antique. Our Illustrations (59 to 61) give the design for the embroidery of the front and the flap. When the pattern has been traced on the case, work the embroidery of the flying wheel in satin, overcast, knotted stitch, and point russe, with brown purse silk of different shades. The bird is embroidered with the same silk in plain and interlacing satin stitch. The flap is embroidered with silk, in satin and overcast stitch. The inside of the case is then fitted with pockets of fawn-coloured corded silk, and bound with brown sarsanet ribbon. A metal lock is required for fastening.
54.- EMBROIDERED EDGING. Worked with Messrs. Walter EVANS & Co.'s Mecklenburg Thread and Embroidery Cotton.
A FEW WORDS FOR THE NEW YEAR.
the interest which intelligent women may be expected to take in them. John Milton, who was a philosopher of the best kind, and a great poet too, said of the study of philosophy, which some folks who knew nothing about it called dry and uninteresting
“How charming is divine philosophy!
Not harsh and crabbed, as dull fools suppose,
THE 'HE beginning of a New Year is always a time of pro
mises and good resolutions. We undertake to forsake all our errors of theory and practice, turn over a new leaf, and produce during the coming months something which shall surpass all our past efforts. We determine to give effect to the famous proverb, that “death is the gate of life,” by showing that the dead Old Year has led us to the beginning of better things. Very commendable resolutions for us to make as individuals, and happy, doubtless, shall we be if the retrospect which the next New Year induces should prove to be quite satisfactory. We may say the same for ourselves in our editorial capacity. Writing at the commencement of 1875 we are about to promise the readers of the Young ENGLISH WOMAN that our pages will offer additional attractions, that new pens will be engaged in the work of contributing to their information and amusement, and that new features will appear in the publication. We trust that we are justified in our confidence, that when the time comes for us to review another year's work, we shall have increased our circle of readers, and established new claims upon the confidence of our old friends.
It is very pleasant for a new editor and new contributors to know that they are addressing readers who, by long attachment to a publication, are predisposed to place confidence in, and welcome to the work, those who are undertaking the anxious duty of maintaining its reputation; this feeling is very encouraging to all engaged in the work, and it is an encouragement which we have good reason to know is given to our efforts.
We intend to add several new features to our publication. One, which we venture to think will be found highly interesting, will be a series of Biographical Sketches of Distinguished Women of our own time, who have made themselves eminent in literature and art, or whose great quality of mind and noble characteristics have marked them out as illustrious examples of true womanly value, We live now in a time when women are claiming a larger recognition as worthy sharers in the duties and responsi. bilities of intellectual, political, and social life than has hitherto been accorded them. These claims have been too often met with levity, or even contempt; the best reply to which is to produce the unanswerable evidence of woman's high qualities, as illustrated by distinguished examples, the force of whose character and the greatness of whose abilities are universally recognized ; and the biographical skitches we intend to present in our pages will furnish that evidence, while they supply personal information respecting those whose names are known to all, and with whom we naturally desire a more intimate acquaintance.
Another new feature of the YOUNG ENGLISHWOMAN will be a resumé in every number of the leading political and social events of the month, with especial reference to
We may say almost as much for the " horrid politics" which some young ladies have such a dread of. It was good advice given to a timid person, “ If you see anything you feel frightened at, go straight up to it, and the chances are a hundred to one that you will find reason to laugh at yourself for having been so easily alarmed.” That is just the case with politics—or let us substitute another name, which may put the matter in another light--a knowledge of public affairs. Now-a-days public matters are so associated with the interests of private and social life, that we decline to leave them only to the consideration and management of the masculine intellect. Women really cannot, as intelligent beings, afford to be unacquainted with what is going on in the world; they must be prepared to bear their part in conversation, by making themselves familiar with facts and theories, and it will go hard indeed if the intuitive feminine perception does not sometimes reach to the very centre of a vexed political or social problem. We hope to present the subjects we may be called upon to note in such a manner, politics” will not seem “harsh and crabbed,” but the subject of pleasant and profitable study. Side by side with 'facts will be fiction.
This is very far from being a new item in the contents of our publication. We think that very many of our readers retain agreeable recollections of the stories that have appeared in our pages; and we think we can promise new stories, by new authors, which will be highly attractive. We have made arrangements with writers of recognized talent and great popularity, to contribute to this department of our publication, and we feel confident that we shall be able to present to our readers stories of peculiar and sustained interest.
Need we say that the Fashion Pages will be as interesting as ever? The subject is always attractive, and we have made special arrangements for supplying the most complete information, with abundant illustrations. We can but promise that the reputation of the Young ENGLISHWoman shall be sustained in respect to all the specialities which have made it so popular and attractive; and thus, with sincere wishes for the health, happiness, and prosperity of our readers, and an expressed desire on our own part that we may be found to retain their regard and confidence, we lay down our pen, and prepare for the work of the coming year.
DRAMATIC AND MUSICAL NOTES.
at nearly all the theatres, owing to the necessary preparations for the Christmas season; though, singuJarly enough, we can hardly recollect any period when so many attractive pieces were “on." There is an unusual embarras de richesses in the list of theatrical advertisements, and almost any and every taste is suited. Should the intending theatre-goer be an admirer of the higher walks of the art, there is “Hamlet” at the Lyceum, with Mr. Irving in the character of the Danish prince, supported by an admirable Ophelia in the person of Miss Isabel Bateman; by Mr. Compton, the very driest and raciest of grave-diggers, and a thoroughly good working company. Few things have attracted so much attention in the theatrical world of late years as Mr. Irving's assumption of this part, which seems to be a sort of goal for all tragic actors to aim at; and while on the one hand there are those who do not hesitate to declare it all but faultless, there are others who take grave exceptions not only to certain points in the business of the acting wherein Mr. Irving differs from his predecessors, but also to the actor's general conception and presentation of the character. One thing, at all events, will be allowed by all, which is, that it gives evidence from the first appearance of Hamlet upon
the stage to his death at the end of the play, of careful and conscientious study. We confess that there are many alterations that we do not think improvements; but whether right or wrong, one is bound to feel that Mr. Irving is himself fully satisfied with its correctness, and that we are witnessing the result of a carefully-formed judgment, and not of idle caprice. Equally beyond question is it that his present assumption is far beyond anything he has yet attempted. There is more repose, and a singular and welcome absence of that tendency to rant which threatened very much to militate against his advance as a tragedian. Miss Isabel Bateman is, as we said before, an admirable Ophelia ; of course there is room for improvement : the part is one that may tax to the utmost the powers of an actress of far greater experience and ability; but there is so much that is beautiful in her performance, that we would rather give Miss Bateman credit for what she has achieved, than criticise in detail faults, or, let us rather say, shortcomings, which further experience may fairly be expected to correct. One good result we would fain look to from Miss Bateman's success, which is that some other young actresses may be induced to follow in her train. We have a sad dearth of real actresses at present, though there is no dearth of the fair sex in the profession; only very few of them bave any idea of acting at all, in the proper sense of the word. The demand, as is very often the case, is regulated by the supply; and the list of our really good
actresses is getting smaller and smaller every day. What we want is a few intelligent actresses who would take the trouble to work hard and conscientiously, and not fancy they have climbed to the top of the ladder when their feet are really only on the lowest rung. At the Vaudeville, Mr. Albery's comedy, "The Two Roses," with which the fortunes of the house were inaugurated, has been revived with great success; though, with the exception of Mr. Thomas Thorne, who still plays Caleb Deecie, the whole of the cast has been altered. Mr. David James succeeds Mr. George Honey as “Our Mr. Jenkins," and plays it in a style peculiarly his own, while Mr. Farren takes the part of Digby Grand, originally played by Mr. Irving. The burlesque of "Romulus and Remus”! has also been revived. “ Lost in London" is still the principal attraction at the Princesses, but will have to be put aside for the Christmas piece. It has been supplemented recently by the production of a slight sketch, entitled, “Hamlet the Hysterical," which is, of course, aimed at the Lyceum performance. The principal character is taken by Mr. Belmore, who is worthy of something much better than arch buffoonery-in fact, we shall be glad when the Christmas change does come.
Pantomime appears to be more than usually in the ascendant this year. A few years ago the pirouettes of Columbine and the tricks and tumbles of Clown were to be seen at only two or three theatres, and people prophesied a speedy extinction of the old entertainment. But pantomime has held bravely on notwithstanding, and the good little boys and girls will have plenty to amuse them this time. Old Drury, as usual, comes to the fore with a grand pantomime, entitled " Aladdin," in which the Vokes family are to appear; and Mr. Rice's “ Babes in the Wood, or the Big Bed of Ware,'' at Covent Garden, which is said to have been in rehearsal since May last, promises to eclipse the glories even of last year's pantomime, and from the appearance of the names of Miss Annie Goodall, Miss Rebecca Isaacs, and Mr. Wilford Morgan, in the cast, we may expect that some special attention has been devoted to the musical department. Pantomimes are also in preparation at the Adelphi, at the Holborn--which Mr. John Hollingshead has taken in hand-at the Standard, and at Sanger's Amphitheatre.
An especial treat may be expected at the Gaiety Theatre, where the “Merry Wives of Windsor” will be given, with Mr. Phelps in the part of Falstaff, supported by an unusually strong cast, including Mrs. John Wood, Miss Furtado, and Miss Rose Leclercq, and Messrs. Herman Vezin, Righton, Cecil, and Maclean. Not the least of the attractions of the piece will be the new music, which has been composed especially for the occasion by Mr. Arthur Sullivan, who, it will be remembered, first