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DRAMATIC AND MUSICAL NOTES.
To give anything like an exhaustive notice of the
1 various operas and concerts that have been given during the past month would, in our limited space, be impossible; and even if we were able to do it, it is very questionable whether any great purpose would be served by it. The month of July, 1875, has been, in a musical sense, very much the same as any July of the last few years : it has witnessed the wind up for the season of all the important series of morning and evening concerts, and of the performances at the two opera-houses, and the usual number, or possibly somewhat over the usual number, of benefit concerts; and yet for all this but little has been added to our musical experience. At Covent Garden the season has been an unusually successful one, and the interest in the performances has been kept up to the very last night, when the season closed with a performance of “L'Etoile du Nord,” with Madame Patti in the part of the heroine, supported by M. Faure as Pietro. The brilliant prima donna has been in admirable voice all the season, and has appeared in several of her best parts, beside fulfilling one of the most important promises put forth in Mr. Gye's programme, by her impersonation of the heroine in M. Gounod's version of Shakespeare's “Romeo and Juliet.” In this, as indeed in well-nigh every part she undertakes, her success was such as to satisfy even the most devoted of her admirers, and we may probably look forward to a more frequent repetition of the opera next season. It is only to be regretted that the public do not have more frequent opportunities of seeing Madame Patti in some of those lighter parts, by the performance of which she first made her fame, and in which she stands most unquestionably alone. For her benefit night, which took place as usual during the last week of the season, she chose the part of Violetta in “La Traviata,” in which of late years she has not been frequently seen, and proved that she could play it as well as ever. The same week, two others of Mr. Gye's leading sopranos had their benefit performances-Madlle. Zare
Thalberg and Madlle. Albani. The former appeared in Zerlina in “Don Giovanni," the character in which she first appeared before the public, and upon which, as yet, she has not improved; while Madlle. Albani chose Margherite in “Faust," and though she fully established her claim to be looked upon as one of the best representatives of the character, one could not help feeling that it was by no means the best thing she has done. Her assumption of Elsa in “ Lohengrin” is unquestionably far beyond it, and it was to be regretted that she did not give her admirers an opportunity of seeing her once more in a character with which her name will always be associated.
As Mr. Mapleson did not open his campaign until some time after Mr, Gye had been in the field, Drury
Lane has remained open a week later than Covent Garden. There the chief attraction of the last month has been the appearance of Madlle. Chapuy as Rosina in the “ Barber of Seville," and that of Madlle. Varesi, some weeks later, in the same part. Wagner's “ Lohengrin” has been as decided a success here as it was at Covent Garden, but it still remains to be seen whether the work will continue to prove attractive after the curiosity about it has become exhausted. With the end of the present season, Drury Lane ceases to be the home of Her Majesty's Opera. The preparations for the building of the new Grand Opera House on the Embankment are being rapidly pushed forward, and every confidence is manifested that it will be ready to be opened in May next. As far as can be judged from the plans, it promises to be one of the most commodious and elegant buildings of the kind in Europe, though its capacity will be hardly so great as some of the monster continental houses.
Mr. Henry Leslie gave an extra concert on Friday, July 9, expressly for the purpose of allowing the members of the various provincial choirs, who had come to London to attend the Crystal Palace Music Meeting, an opportunity of hearing the degree of perfection to which choral singing can be brought. It is to be hoped that the lesson thus given will not be without its fruits; such a brilliant example was worth any amount of precept. The choir, of which it is almost superfluous to speak in terms of praise, sang in their very best style, as if they fully realized the importance of the occasion, and have probably never been heard to better advantage. The most noteworthy items of the concert were Mendelssohn's “ Judge me, O God," S. S. Wesley's “In exitu Israel," and a number of madrigals and part songs chiefly of the old schooi. The solo vocalists were Miss Eva Leslie and Mr. Sims Reeves, the latter of whom gave an exceptionally fine rendering of “ Adelaida."
The Welsh Choral Union is an association which during this season has displayed considerable vitality, but the performances of the members can hardly be said to be adequate to their intentions. Their performance of “Acis and Galatea” at a recent concert was by no means up to the mark, most of the choruses being imperfectly and unsteadily rendered. The one redeeming feature of the concert was the singing of the soloists, Miss Edith Wynne, Mr. Henry Guy, Mr. Howells, and Mr. Lewis Thomas, although the last named gentleman seemed to try his best to give “ O Ruddier than the Cherry" the effect of a comic song. The only accompanying instruments were the pianoforte and organ, the latter of which instruments was used "not wisely but too well in the choruses. However, there appears to be a fair amount of good material among the choralists, and we hope that by next season they will have found ample opportunity for the practice of which they stand in need at present.
The signs of the end of the season are becoming rapidly more and more apparent. Some of the principal houses have closed their doors, and those that remain open do not present any novelty except Mr. Horace Wigan's Mirror, where a new play has just been produced, written by Messrs. Oxenford and Wigan conjointly, which bears the title of “Self.” At the Olympic, Mr. Henry Neville has found it his best policy to revive the well-known “ Ticket of Leave Man," which rather more than ten years ago brought such a tide of prosperity to this theatre. In the present revival we have the advantage of seeing some few of the parts sustained by their original representatives. Mr. Neville is, of course, Bob Brierley, and his portrait of the brave Lancashire lad is as powerfully drawn as ever. Mrs. Stephens retains her old character of Mrs. Willoughby, which is still, as it always was, one of the best features of the perform
Mr. Souter appears, as before, in his old character of Green Jones; and Miss Farren again impersonates Sam Willoughby. The other parts are fairly well sustained, and the piece might reasonably reckon on again having a long run.
The remaining items of theatrical news may be dis
missed briefly. Signor Salvini concluded his engagement at Drury Lane on Friday, July 16, with a performance of Othello, into which he seemed to throw the whole of his wonderful power. The acting of the great Italian tragedian marks an epoch in the dramatic history of this country; and it is most sincerely to be hoped that in the future he may be a constant visitor to London. Of the three impersonations he has given, however, that of Othello, in which on a certain memorable evening in May last he took the town by storm, still remains unquestionably the finest. At the Haymarket, Mr. Buckstone has brought his season to an end, and Lord Dundreary has made his last bow. The house has been opened by Mr. Edgar Bruce, with the company who were playing at the Court Theatre prior to Mr. Hare's lesseeship. The programme includes the drama “Alone," and the
Wedding March.” At the Strand, there has been a change in the bill. “Nemesis," one of the most amusing and best acted burlesques that have been seen for some time, having been replaced. At the Criterion we bave the evergreen “Fille de Madame Angot,” in the original French, and, what is better still, with mainly the original performers. In spite of the number of times that every one has seen the piece, this performance should on no account be missed.
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO OUR READERS.
THE *HE first of a series of articles descriptive of elegant
and useful novelties for the toilet and domestic use, will appear in the next number of The Young ENGLISHWOMAN. They will be written by a lady, in whose taste in selection and experience in purchasing we have most complete confidence; and our readers may rely on receiving information on which they can depend, as to novelty, utility, and economy of the articles information valuable to ladies residing in country districts, where novelties are long in reaching, and where they are only obtained with difficulty, and probably increased expense.
In addition to the interesting and useful information we hope to be able to furnish, we propose, in the interest of our subscribers, to purchase and forward any of the articles they may wish to procure, and which they might find it difficult to obtain through ordinary trade channels. Our contributor will visit the principal establishments,
carefully inspect every article, and ascertain the most advantageous mode of purchasing. The price of every article will be mentioned when it is described ; and on receipt of a post-office order for the price and expense of carriage, it will be immediately forwarded to the address given.
Costumes, millinery, lingerie, toilet requisites, ornaments for the drawing-room, articles of domestic utility, novelties, indeed, of every kind which a lady resident in the country would value as an ornamental or useful addition to her establishment, or for personal use, will be included in the matters described ; and we hope that in making the addition to the contents of our magazine, and in offering facilities of purchase, we shall be able to be of service, not only to the numerous correspondents who have addressed us on the subject, but to our country subscribers generally.
RULES AND REGULATIONS. All letters re- ought to be. 2. Have them made with plain quiring answers in the following month's issue skirts and tablier simply stitched all round. 3. must be forwarded to SYLVIA, CARE of EDITOR, Neither black nor white lace would look well on Messrs. Ward, Lock, & Tyler, Warwick House,
your blue material, nor would a white muslin Paternoster Row, E.C., before the 5th of each
polonaise be suitable to wear over it. 4. You month. 2. All letters asking questions should be
did not enclose any pattern of silk. 5. The grey written on one side only of the paper, and a
would make a useful walking dress. The models space should be left for each answer.
given on pages 396 and 397 of our July number 3. In writing for advice as to the making up would be a pretty style, especially as you do not and altering of dresses, it is advisable to men like trimmings. . 6. Either a fichu, light jacket, tion height, complexion, and colour of hair, in a scarf, or a cape. 7. A white cashmere would order that the best combinations of colour may be unsuitable to wear with any of the dresses of be given.
which you have sent me patterns. ] 4. Photographs sent for this purpose can
COLINETTE would be very much obliged to not be returned, unless accompanied by a
Sylvia if she would answer the following quesstamped directed envelope 5. Letters for the Work-room must be
tions in next month's issue of Our Work-room. written on separate paper from those intended
Where can I get the white fur used for lining for the Drawing-room or the Exchange Column. those long silk cloaks so fashionable last winter?
No charge is made for replies to any ques [At any furrier's.] And what is about the price? tion in the Work-room: it is open to all comers, [I will inquire, and let you know in our next and all are welcome:
number.] Where could I get a pattern to make As we give elsewhere all the latest informa- a lady's Ulster coat? [Madame Goubaud, 30, tion as to modes and styles, we cannot answer Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, W.C.) Where questions as to the way of inaking up new
are those Swedish gloves to be obtained? (Janmaterials, except when the quantity is so limited as to require contriving, in which case
nings and Co., 16, Fenchurch Street, E.C.) I
have to thank Sylvia for her kind answers to we are glad to give our best help.
other correspondents, which have so often been
of service to me. I have been a subscriber for NELLIE writes - You must excuse me six years, and thoroughly enjoy and appreciate troubling you again, but I think I could not go this useful magazine. I hope this is in time, to a better; and having all my dress, etc., to see and that I have complied with the rules. to myself, I am often puzzled in choosing LYDIA C. wants very much to ask Sylvia if colours and quality. Therefore I beg your help she can get a single pair of Izod's stays. She in the following queries :-1. I want two or lives in the Isle of Wight. Could they be for. three dresses out of the enclosed patterns of warded without any more expense? And she print-at least, select some from them--and I also wishes to mention that she, too, wrote to am puzzled to know which would be the best that young lady who wanted the pattern of a I was thinking of choosing one like that with bodice which came out in March, 1874, and engreen sprigs, and one like that with red, but I clused a stamp for reply, had she received any think they are not very good (price gd. and is. letters before. (Izod's corsets may be had of per yard), and one of the stripes; which do you any good draper. The prices are from 48. 6d. ihink would be best? Living in an obscure upwards. You must pay carriage.] country place, miles from any market town, I Can Sylvia tell me what to do with an oldhave not the advantage of seeing much to choose fashioned fur cape, which is quite useless to me? from, so hope you will forgive me troubling you. It is sable, and the fur is still good, except just at 2. I was thinking of getting twelve yards of the neck, where it is slightly worn. The cape each; how could I have them made up? I is nearly half a yard deep, and the fur very dark don't care for frills; I am getting tired of them. and handsome, but I am too young to wear it, 3. I have got a dress made like the enclosed even if such capes were fashionable now. [With pattern of blue, it is made walking length, care and management, it would make a handsome three flounces on the skirt, tunic trimmed with trimming for a velvet jacket. Or why not close pleating of the material, plain bodice. I advertise it in our Exchange column, or advertise was thinking of getting some white lace to put it for sale ? Fur always commands its price.] round the tunic, etc.; or would black be better? What shall I do with a grey silk, writes A Would a white muslin polonaise look well with DISTRESSED ONE, that never could be persuaded it, and what part of the day would be suitable to to fit me? I really think that a dress can never wear it? 4. How could I renovate a dress like be made to fit if it do not do so at first. This is the enclosed pattern of silk, made with long a very pretty shade of grey, and it is cut square in plain skirt, eight widths, a plain bodice, no tunic? front for a dinner dress. It does not fit at the Could I get any out of the skirt to trim it, or waist, nor will the front breadths of the skirt sit what could I match it with, or will it look too nicely. They bulge out, and make me look very old-fashioned? Would it do for a dinner dress, stout, and as I am naturally quite stout enough, this with a lace polonaise to wear over it ? 5. How is disagreeable. There is no tablier in front, the should I make fifteen yards of the grey pattern breadths being trimmed with narrow flounces of
breadths being trimmed with narrow founces of enclosed? Would a walking dress or a long the silk and bands of velvet.
the silk and bands of velvet.
[As you say, it is
[As you say, it is dress look best? 6. What could I wear over impossible to make a good fit of a dress that has my shoulders, as I can't bear to go without? 7. been badly cut. The only thing you can do is How would a white cashmere fichu look ? (1. to have a well-fitting sleeveless cuirasse bodice If I were choosing, I would have the one with made of velvet like that with which the skirt is brown and white stripes and the one with blue crimmed, and wear it over the silk body. Have and white, but they are double the price they ' it cut en cæur—in other words, opening in a
point in front, which is more fashionable than the square style.]
EDNA writes - I have a quantity of dark blue satin once used for trimming a dark blue velveteen dress. Could I use it in any way in trimming a black silk which I am having turned? Or would it be better to trim a Japanese grey silk, which is quite new? How would old trimming look on a new material ? [The dark blue satin would not look at all well on a black silk dress. It will do admirably with your grey Japanese silk, if it be fresh enough, and you must judge for yourself of that. A good trimming sometimes looks better in its latter days than a cheap new one.)
LUCRETIA writes—I have a costume, made last summer, of bright blue rep. The colour is very decided and bright. I would have sent you a pattern, but I have not a scrap except the dress itself. I consider the dress to be very vulgar, but my mother, who chose it, says it is very pretty, and suits me admirably. I have fair hair, and either blue or grey eyes, I don't know which. What is your opinion, Sylvia? [I am sorry to disagree with your mother, but bright decided blues are certainly considered vulgar just now, when the neutral, soft, faded-looking blues and greens are so fashionable. If I were you, I should please my mother, who chose the dress, by wearing it till the end of the season, and then you can have it dyed a pretty dark navy blue, which will suit your complexion very well, and is a very fashionable colour. The Princess of Wales wears dark blue navy serge, Blue is her favourite colour, and suits her wonderfully, though she looks equally pretty in pink or violer.] I wear with this blue dress a Leghorn hat with a very broad brim straight all round. It has a long white drooping ostrich feather. Is not this an oldfashioned kind of hat? [It is both old-fashioned and new, for these wide-brimmed hats are coming into fashion again. I have not seen any this season in Leghorn straw, but you must not rebel against the shape, Nothing can be more becoming to a fresh young face than such a hat. It throws a soft shade, under which the eyes and complexion look their best.] And do you think I may soon wear a bonnet? I am nearly sixteen. I think they are so becoming this year that I should like to wear them now, and I am so afraid that by the time I am old enough to wear ons, the shape may be an unbecoming one. I tried on my aunt's at the glass the other day, and I thought I looked very nice. Do you think I might coax mamma to let me have one at once? [Girls seldom wear bonnets till they are sixteea or seventeen, but as you would like it so much, perhaps your mother would see no reason against letting you have one at once.]
POLLY writes—I want to know what to do with a black satin dress; it is not a new one. I have eight and a half breadths forty-one inches long, nineteen inches wide, a full bodice and wide sleeves. Please tell me what to do with it, and what to do it up with, as I fear it will look old for me. I am 5 feet 3 inches in height, and very slight in figure, very pale complexion. I am thirty years of age, and have brown hair. I hope to be in time for the next month. I am in slight mourning, and unmarried. [Make the eight and a half breadths into a skirt, walking
length, with kilt pleating to the knees. You spun? (With pleatings of itself or bias bands of
Mrs. Curran, a lady who has taken in Will Sylvia tell J. A. M. how to remake a BELTON'S ENGLISH WOMAN for upwards of twenty dress like pattern, which was spoilt in making ?
years, would feel obliged if she could be informed, It is made with two pleated frills on the skirt, a through the Workroom or otherwise, whether jacket waist and tablier edged with pleatings. there is any house in London, wholesale or retail, The waist is too short, and the basques are so where " white "jet, fancy beads, and bugles can short at the sides that I cannot alter it. The be bought, such as are now so much used to frills are on the cross, and the dress looks alto
work the patterns on white and black blonde and gether unfashionable. [You had better cut off
lace. Mrs. Curran has tried every shop in the basques and make the bodice round, to wear Dublin, and only a coarse, large-sized, yellowish with a belt. This will enable you to make the white bead can be obtained, and they declare waist long enough. Judging from your photo- none other are made; but on the blonde sold graph, this style will suit you. Stitch down the by the yard, a very much better sort are sewn on. p'eats of your bias frills, damp and iron them, Mrs. Curran encloses a stamped envelope, and and they will Icok quite fashionable.] Can I apologises for the trouble she is giving. [If the wear a white muslin or thin black tablier and
bugles are to be had, Mrs. Curran could write and cuirasse over a light French grey Japanese silk ? order some to be sent per post, and enclose post[Yes.) I am tall, dark hair, and pale. I should office order. These and all other kinds of be afraid of troubling Sylvia, but she is always so beads are to be had of Miss Lindley, 41, Rathkind in answering every one, particularly when bone Place, Oxford Street, W.] she knows they have not much to spend on dress, that I am sure she will give me her
The lady who wrote from Helensburgh is advice.
informed that a reply was sent to the address GEORGIE would feel obliged to Sylvia if she
given, but was returned endorsed, “ Insufficient would kindly tell her in next month's number
address.” If the lady will send her full adof THE YOUNG ENGLISHWOMAN whether a dull
dress, she will receive the information she black silk dress would look well trimmed with a
requires. glacé silk, or vice versa? (No, grosgrain and Can Sylvia tell WHITE Violet if grenadine glacé do not look well together.] Also, will is suitable for wearing in the street in summer? white muslin polonaises be worn over black silk [Yes.] And how would Sylvia advise White skirts for walking, etc., this summer? (Yes.] Violet to remake a black grenadine which is Georgie has taken The Young ENGLISHWOMAN made with a long skirt trimmed with one deep a long time, and likes it much.
flounce, and pleatings of itself across the front. QUEENIL wishes to thank Sylvia for her There is a long tunic which, when unlooped, kind advice in altering her grey dress ; it looks hangs lower than the skirt, but no tablier. The very nice indeed. Will Queenie be imposing body is very much worn, though the sleeves upon her kindness by troubling her again ? She are in good condition. The flounce is torn and has a black diagonal cloth skirt, tablier, and faded, and the skirt is torn at the pocket. How bodice, and a grey homespun polonaise. Could can it be made to look well? [The long tunic Queenie make a tablier and sleeveless jacket of can be made into a new bodice, and there will be the homespun to wear with the skirt and sleeves enough over to make bows and ends to wear at of black? If so, how ought she to trim the home- the back of the skirt. As the front breadths are
trimmed, no tablier will be necessary. You will perhaps be able to cut sufficient off the best part of the flounce to continue the pleating down to the end of the front breadths. As you say the sleeves are good, this will complete the dress. You must mend the skirt near the pocket very neatly, and cover it as much as possible with the trimming. Grenadine always tears on slight provocation, and it is always better to use the pocket as little as possible. You can make a pretty little châtelaine pocket out of pieces of velvet or silk, as follows:-Cut a piece of stout Jining the shape of a châtelaine pocket or pouch. Cover this with black silk on both sides. Old silk will do. Then cut your black velvet the same shape, but larger every way. Line it with silk, and sew firmly on to the first portion all round, on the wrong side. Finish off with a tiny bow of velvet at each corner, and suspend the pocket by bands of ribbon to the waist. This sort of pocket looks very pretty in gathered silk of the colour of the trimming of any dress. Madame Goubaud will send a flat paper pattern of this pretty pocket for 6d.]
I have a stone-coloured homespun dress trimmed with brown velvet, writes Sophy. Would it be bad taste to trim the front of the tablier with bows of brown ribbon ? (Brown velvet would be in better taste, but if your ribbon is exactly the shade of the brown velvet, it will not look badly. It would be better to trim the body and sleeves with bows of the same.] Would it be good taste to wear a maize bonnet with the above dress? (Very good.]
LINDA will be glad if Sylvia can tell her what kind of fancy work sells best? [It is very difficult to find a sale for ladies' fancy work, partly because they all do the same kinds, and partly because, instead of trying to do one sort of work particularly well, they do several various sorts indifferently well. There is a scheme on foot for establishing a central depôt for the sale of ladies' work, to be carried on on commercial principles. If the scheme be carried out, I will tell our Work-room ladies about it, and how to become members. I do not at present know of any particular kind of fancy work that would be likely to sell well.]