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through which runs a light garland of rosebuds, with long sprays upon the shoulders. The coiffure was ornamented with two beautiful clusters of roses, one in front and one to fasten the Catogan of long blonde curls.
The new ribbon of the season is the broad ribbon of soft grosgrain, brocaded with a pattern of acanthus leaves, either of the same colour or in camaïeu shades. The shaded and plaid ribbon, though less new in style, are still, however, in great vogue.
Coiffures are much less high than they were, though still arranged in coques and rouleaux all over the head; plaits in a coronet are rather gone out of fashion, a loose torsade being preferred; but for the Catogan, the hair is generally plaited, and tied up with a bow. For evening, and especially for ball coiffures, the plait is frequently exchanged for a flow of curls, which is infinitely more graceful and becoming.
The new sorties de bal are half circular, half dolman, with wide sleeves in Oriental style ; they are trimmed with feathers, light fur, or white jet, according to the style of the dress.
It is a fact that a small waist is once more considered as a great charm in female beauty, and it is probable ladies will take greater pains with their figures than they have been used to do, in France, at least, during the last
which is gradually decreased at the sides (under the side. pieces of matelassé), and finished under the outer bias of the front trimming. At the back, the flounce is full twenty inches deep, and is headed by three large bouillonnés. All the space between the upper bouillonné and the pointed basque of the bodice is filled up with the wide coques of a scarf sash of black grosgrain, the ends of which are fringed with jet. The corsage, long-waisted and whale. boned like a cuirasse, is of silk matelassé, and is trimmed with jet beading and fringe to match the side-pieces. The sleeves are of grosgrain, with revers of matelassé, ornamented in the same style as the bodice.
The second is a dress of seal-skin coloured faille, and velvet of the same colour. It has side-pieces like the preceding; they are of velvet, edged with a border of coq en colere feathers. The train, of thick rich faille, is made with the Duchess pleat. This pleat is eight inches wide, with four folds on either side, and forms a very grand sweeping train. It takes up a great quantity of material, as each fold is double. There is no trimming to this train. The front part, also of faille, is arranged in perfectly plain folds all the way down, three on either side. A sleeveless cuirasse of velvet, edged with coq en colere, forms the bodice, and the sleeves are of faille, puffed in the upper part, and with velvet parements to match the bodice.
Pekin velvet--that is, a fabric composed of alternate stripes of velvet and satin, or velvet and faille-is also combined with plain faille to make up dresses of the above description, or, if a more simple style is preferred, good velveteen may be employed with poplin or cashmere.
We noticed an elegant dress of violet and black striped Pekin velvet for the bodice and side tabliers, and of plain violet faille for the front and train. The front part was trimmed with flounces put on spiral fashion. The train was disposed in the Duchess pleat, but trimmed up
the middle of the pleat with an ornament of passementerie and jet. The bodice was edged with a very pretty new style of fringe, composed of ends of narrow finely gauffered silk braid. This fringe closely resembles a feather border, and is very fashionable. The bodice is cut at right angles in front, showing in the lower part the points of a gilet of faille, closely embroidered with jet beads. The sleeves are of faille, also richly trimmed
Madame la Mode has decreed that the female waist should be long and slender, and of course her votaries will now endeavour to come up to that standard. There certainly seems already an improvement, whether produced by the long-waisted, well-fitting cuirasse.bodice, or by more compulsory means, we cannot tell. While the costume complete was universally worn, there was so little difference between in-door and out-of-door dress, that a lady never showed off her figure to advantage, always wearing loose-fitting things about her. But now, when she takes off her wraps, she appears in all the graceful symmetry of a slight figure unencumbered with any superfluous clothing. The tight dress fits well, and there is a pleasant contrast between the toilet meant for the privacy of the house and that which is shown publicly in the streets.
The robe à tablier, though still very fashionable, is no longer, we should warn our fair readers, the very tip-top of novelty. The newest and most stylish dresses we have seen at Worth's and Kerteux's were not made thus ; they had, so to speak, two tabliers, one on each side of the dress. In front the trimmings were put on plain, and at the back the train spread itself out in long full folds. Two examples will illustrate our meaning.
First, a dress of black Lyons grosgrain and black silk matelassé. The tabliers, or side-pieces, are of matelassé, edged with a heavy fringe of silk and jet; the front of grosgrain silk, very plain and scant, is trimmed with bias, merely edged on either side with one row of jet beads. These bias are put on lengthwise. The train is also of grosgrain. It is trimmed at the bottom with a flounce,
We have mentioned this style of dress as very new and fashionable ; but we do not mean to imply it is exclusively so; on the contrary, other façons which we have already described, such as the robe à tablier and the cuirasse tunic, are equally in vogue. Dresses of vigogne, cashmere, and other woollen fabrics are much trimmed with velvet, but this trimming is no longer put on in plain rows as it used to be. It is placed round the edge as a piping (without cord), and turned back about two inches deep inside, so that the trimming is really more on the wrong side of the material than on the right.
Of confections, the half-fitting paletot with wide dolman sleeves is decidedly the favourite. It is made both of velvet and of matelassé, edged with feathers or fur. A new model, named after Princess Czartoriska, is also very distingué. It is a long half-fitting paletot of black faille, lined throughout with fur, double-breasted, and fastened on the left side with large silk buttons. It is edged all round with sable.
Bonnets are of a more en levée shape than ever. The
border is turned up in front or at the side, with a cluster of flowers or a large bow of ribbon of a lighter shade of colour than the chapeau itself. The crown is ornamented with large coques of faille and velvet, and with feathers. Large stuffed birds are also employed for trimming both hats and bonnets. Not the head or tail only, but the whole bird is placed upon modern chapeaux ; nor are they mere humming-bids—pigeons, doves, and cockatoos are especial favourites.
DESCRIPTION OF OUR COLOURED FASHION PLATE.
1. Alsacian Broom-seller dress of scarlet cashmere, with band of black velvet round the edge, embroidered stomacher, with velvet braces and muslin chemisette, percale apron, velvet bead-dress.
2. Huntress Louis XVI., short skirt, embroidered round the bottom with green and gold, polonaise of green velvet, with revers of white satin fastened with gold buttons, revers on the sleeves to correspond, lace under-sleeves,
and embroidered collar. High green boots, with gold tassels.
3. Marchande d'Oublies, Louis XV. short skirt with two velvet bands, draped tunic of plain material, and long gilet of the same.
Black velvet vest, with collar and revers. Embroidered chemisette, with deep turn-down collar and short puffed sleeves, ornamented with coloured bows. Striped stockings, and high patent shoes with buckles.
DESCRIPTION OF OUR CUT-OUT PATTERN.
YOUNG LADY'S WALKING JACKET. At the request of several subscribers, we give the pattern flat up the front, from the point, and continued round the of Walking Jacket for young lady, from 12 to 15 years neck; the back and shoulders may be further ornamented old. Our pattern is suitable for cloth, velvet, or any with beaded passementerie, leaves, and tassels, if preferred. winter material ; it should be edged all round with braid, Our pattern consists of 4 pieces, viz.— the front, sideexcepting the front, which is buttoned down to the bottom, piece, half of back, and sleeve. to simulate a Louis XV. waistcoat. The braid is sewn
TO OUR READERS. YRA is now so well known to the readers of the and hopeful of gaining, in time, some portion of the regard MYRA
Young EnglishWOMAN, that it will be, no doubt, she was so happy as to inspire. If a sincere wish to be with a feeling of regret that her readers will hear of her useful were any qualification for an onerous post like late illness, and that a stranger will, in future, occupy her this, I should be fully qualified, without doubt! But I place in the “Work Room" and the "Drawing Room," know that more than that is necessary—that the desire, as well as in the letters that appear in each number of the however warm, must be backed up by earnest endeavour, Magazine. As her successor, I feel that her popularity and that the good will must be supplemented by the good has both its advantages and its disadvantages for me; deed. It shall, however, be my endeavour so to act its advantages, in that it has established a friendly tone that of feeling towards the Drawing Room and Work Room,
" each to-morrow and its disadvantages, inasmuch as a new face appearing
Find me further than to-day". at a door when we expected to see that of an old friend, on the road to the confidence of our readers. Could is always a disappointment.
any Englishwoman wish for a more congenial audience
than the young girls of her own country? Surely not ; " There's a new foot on the floor, my friend,
and I feel that the privilege of addressing them carries And a new face at the door, my friend,
with it a great responsibility. A new face at the door."
Looking forward to much pleasant interchange of Simultaneously with the new year, untried as that, I thought during the months of the new year, I beg to present myself to our readers, ready and willing to tread wish that they may be fraught with happiness for all our in Myra's footsteps, anxious to be as useful as she was, readers.