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336.- COSTUME OF GROSGRAIN AND CASHMERE. Trained skirt of black grosgrain silk with two crossway flounces, each of which is headed by a close pleating of grosgrain. Below the flounce a similar pleating graduated in width is introduced. Tunic and jacket bodice of black cashmere, richly trimined with beaded passementerie and black guipure lace. The tunic is long in front and sits close to the figure ; at the back it is arranged in folds with an echarpe of grosgrain. At the wrists, closely pleated, cuiffs of grosgrain, with band and bow. Revers of silk at the neck. Ruffle and sleeve of pleated crepe lisse.
YOUNG Englishwomen may now produce their
airiest and fairiest of textures. The bright sun. shine and warm air forbid anything warmer than muslin, grenadine, or some equally cool material. The present style of dress, it was feared, would not look well in thin materials, but the contrary is the case. The tablier looks very well in muslin, and should be trimmed with a frill of the same material. A muslin dress is greatly improved by bows of ribbon down the front and on the sleeves. These little et ceteras sometimes make all the difference between a tasteful and an insipid costume. French muslins are sometimes of a neutral ground, with flowers in very delicate tints, and these require ribbon of a bright shade to relieve their monotony. Sometimes black velvet is a great relief to a pale background. It requires some taste and an eye for colour to make these slight additions, and one must be careful in selecting them not to mar where one wishes to mend.
A point where many girls fail in taste is in choosing the colour of gloves. Certainly, one seldom sees now the dreadful blue, green, and violet gloves that were once but too fashionable, but even among the browns, yellows, and greys left from which to choose, it is quite possible to make a very wrong selection. A good rule, especially for summer wear, is to have the gloves match the colour of the dress exactly, if the colour be pale brown or grey. If light gloves are to be worn, it is more difficult to give general advice.
The Copenhagen Glove, manufactured by JANNINGS and Co., 16, Fenchurch Street, is made in all the pretty natural shades, pale fawns, greys, and browns, and wear extremely well. The price is very moderate, those with one button being sold at 25. a pair, and those with two buttons at 2s. 6d. The stockings made by Messrs. Jan-' nings are also very good, being made doubly strong in those places where there is most wear. I may mention for the benefit of country readers, that orders must be accompanied by post-office orders.
Young ladies who are industriously inclined, might make themselves very handsome dresses by embroidering patterns of flowers and leaves on tussore silk in the imperial knitting silk manufactured by Messrs. Adams and Co., 5, New Street, Bishopsgate Street. The undyed silk is made in two different sizes, and, as well as the other colours, knits very well. This silk in made in one hundred and forty different shades. The tussore is specially recommendable because, being entirely free from dye, it never changes colour in the least degree. The prices are reasonable, and the colours very beautiful.
I am constantly getting inquiries about sapoline, the magic soap, so I may as well give here all the informa
tion I can about it. It is a purely white soap, and, though sold at the same price as ordinary soap, is yet much cheaper, because both time and labour are economized in using it. It is the only kind of soap that ought to be used for washing lace and other delicate fabrics, and will indeed be found generally useful in the household, from washing the blankets to washing the baby, Sapoline is manufactured by C. T. TYLER, Woking Station, Surrey.
Dr. Hassall's Food For INFANTS, CHILDREN, AND Invalids is deservedly making a reputation. It is manufactured by Goodall, BACKHOUSE & Co., Leeds, and its distinguishing qualities are, being easily digestible, containing great nutrition, and being absolutely pure. The mode of preparation is very simple, and the food is pleasant to the taste, without any addition of flavouring.
A propos of children, I saw in Regent Street the other day a very pretty little summer out-door garment for a little girl, composed simply of a crèpe-de-chine scarf, trimmed all round with fringe, The scarf was in a point at the back, just deep enough to reach to the waist. It then crossed in front, and one end made another point at the back, while both ends tied at the side, one falling rather longer than the other.
This idea might be utilized for children of a larger growth. Crèpe-de-chine is an ideal material, and when trimmed with fringe is particularly becoming. It drapes very gracefully, and would make most elegant fichus for wearing in the warm weather.
A very simple and pretty fichu can be made by cutting the pattern in black Brussels net and then covering it with lace, beaded or otherwise.
The bonnets worn this season are as pretty and becoming as it is possible for bonnets to be. The wreaths of flowers worn under the turned-up brims are so beautifully made and look so natural as to rival in freshness many of the youthful faces under them. Many of the bonnets, certainly, are overloaded with flowers, but discriminating ; taste will readily discern what is unsuitable, and reject such as are unduly ornamented.
As to hats, they are of every possible variety, both in shape and size. The wide-brimmed Gainsborough hat increases in favour, and is worn slightly on one side of the head. When lined with a pretty wreath of flowers, the effect of this hat is very coquettish and becoming. I have seen one trimmed with pale blue and with a wreath of half-blown daisies that had the prettiest imaginable effect—but it is sometimes puzzling to know how much of the effect to attribute to a hat and how much to the pretty face beneath it.
SOMETHING TO DO.
MANY girls with a talent for drawing have expensive
These are all the necessary tools for beginners, and masters to cultivate it, spend hours over it every their cost is trifling. Later on, as the learner progresses week, and succeed so far as to have a reputation among and begins to undertake complicated drawings, an eyetheir friends as artists. But when the day comes, as glass will be necessary. These are made with a stand, it sometimes does, when “Something to Do" is the cry which obviates the necessity for holding the glass in the not only of ennui, but of necessity, the poor girl finds eye, and leaves the hands free. that her art has no commercial value. She shows her Before proceeding to cut any of the lines on your drawings or paintings to a picture-dealer. A glance is block, you must carefully cover up every portion of the enough for him. “I could get enough of that sort of thing drawing but that on which you are about to set to work. gratis, to stock my shop," he says, looking at the groups Smooth blue paper or clean glazed paper may be used of flowers, copied heads, and conventional landscapes. for this purpose. The breath would otherwise darnage
Now, for every fifty girls who learn drawing with the drawing by diminishing the sharpness that is so pleasure and delight, is there one who, for pleasure, takes necessary to be preserved. The paper also keeps the up the art of wood engraving? I doubt it. And yet it drawing from the pressure of the hand. Rub the edges has its fascinations, and can be made remunerative if of the wood with beeswax, strain the paper tightly over necessary. The work is very clean, great neatness and the drawing, and fasten it down on the beeswax. Cut accuracy are required (and these are essentially feminine a hole where you wish to commence. characteristics), and the tools used are adapted to a There is this difference with engraving from almost all woman's use. A knowledge of drawing is not necessary other occupations. It is easier to work at night than by to wood engraving, but it is most desirable, as it enables daylight, With gaslight and the globe mentioned above, the engraver to enter into the spirit of the artist's idea, it is much easier to concentrate the light on the work. and to render it the more faithfully. The following I quote from Thomas Gilks' “ Art of Wood Engravhints may prove useful to those who would like to make ing the following description of the proper mode of a beginning at an occupation that is at once remunerative sitting at the table and holding the graver, and I would and interesting.
at the same time recommend learners to purchase this It will be understood that the process of wood valuable handbook. engraving consists in cutting away from the surface of « 4 Who sets out wrong,' he says ‘is more than halt the wood all those portions not occupied by the lines of undone.' It is therefore most important at the commencethe drawing. Boxwood is the best wood for engraving ment of engraving to sit comfortably and straight at the upon, and the best preparation for drawing upon it is a table, and to hold the graver correctly. The block very thin wash of China white, mixed with water and a should be so placed on the table and on the sand-bag little common glue-powder, laid on with a fat brush, that the pupil sits quite straight in front, and without havIt must be remembered that the drawing will appear ing to stoop (if this is not at the outset insisted on, the reversed when the impression is taken off, so that it seed of chest disease is immediately sown); the block is must be drawn in outline on tracing paper, which is then held, but not too tightly, with the thumb and forelaid reverse-wise on the wood, with a piece of prepared finger of the left hand, while with the right hand the red paper between, the red side being next the wood. graver is held, the ball of the handle resting in the palm. The lines are then traced with a sharp point, which
graver is then pressed forward with the thumb and duces them in red on the block. Having removed the forefinger, the thumb resting against the side of the paper, go over these lines with a very hard pencil, and block (if a small one), or on the surface of a large fill in according to taste.
block, and thus acting as a lever to the fingers in the The drawing being completed, the engraving begins, graver's motion onwards, allowing it to move forward or and for this the tools requisite are a flat leather bag, filled backward with a very slight degree of pressure, and in the with sand, to rest the block upon, gravers, tint-tools, case of a tendency to slip being ever ready to check the scoopers, chisels, which may all be bought in handles graver's progress. ” ready for use, a green shade for wearing over the eyes, a With this quotation I conclude these few hints on round glass bottle filled with coloured water, placed so as wood engraving, which, necessarily, in so short a space, to catch the light and refract it upon the portion of the are very bare and incomplete; but if they induce even a engraving in hand; a burnisher, for taking proofs; a few among our readers to enter upon a more profitable small grindstone, for taking down the rough edge of amusement than drawing in water-colours, or making the tools; and a Turkey stone, for finishing the point impossible flowers in Berlin wool, I shall be very glad. and fitting the tool for use.