Page images
[merged small][graphic][merged small]

* THERE is nothing strikingly new to note this reigns supreme, and whether real or simulated forms

month in the façon of costumes. The tablier a part of every toilet. The cuirasse shape is equally

[merged small][merged small][graphic][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small]

to attempt to give an idea of the various combinations of with two bands of black velvet and a double fluting of the loopings up imagined even while the dress is being tried beige material edged with narrow black velvet. Light on ; none of these arrangements are any of them exactly beige sleeves, with parements composed of alternate velvet alike. In general, however, the tablier is stretched plain, and beige bias. and fixed by bows of different style, some forming the A more dressy toilette is of lilac taffetas. The skirt large double loops called “ coques," placed one above the is put on in close gathers behind, plain and gored in front. other en cascade, others daiutily.chiffoned écharpes, etc. It is trimmed round the bottom with a fine deep plissé, As trimmings, plissés are more and more in vogue, fine stitched down twice, headed by two bouillonnés—the regular plissés stitched down three or four times across upper one with a plissé heading. A wide écharpe of the top; then there are ruches and coulissés, closely brocaded ribbon of a deeper shade of lilac is thrown gathered bouillonnés and narrow bias; besides which, round the skirt and tied on the left side, but very much at fringe is generally added to all these trimmings, made up the back, in a loose bow with drooping loops, the upper of the dress material, or of some other fabric to corre- part of the skirt being very slightly puffed at the top. spond: the mixture of self-coloured with plaided, striped Cuirasse bodice with rather short basque, rounded at the or figured tissues. The latter, however, though tolerated back, peaked in front; long bows of narrower brocaded by Fashion, is by no means so much in favour as the ribbon upon the back of the bodice-one at the waist and others. In making up a complete costume of self- one at the neck. Siinilar bows upon the parements of the coloured material, the fancy material-striped or plaided cvat sleeves. -may be used for the trimmings and all accessories -- A croizette of blue silk is made thus: The front part such as revers, collar, parements, flounces, bias and ruches, is trimmed with a series of small coulissé bouillonnés, and should always be cut on the cross. When plain and divided by narrow flutings. The sides have a trimming fancy materials are used in about equal quantities, the of gathered founces, headed with bouillonnés put on plain is very generally used for the skirt and the fancy slantways; on either side of this trimming, dividing it for the tablier and cuirasse. This rule, however, does not from the front and back parts, there is a bouillonné put always hold good. At the races in the Bois de Boulogne, , on perpendicularly, with very narrow frilling on either some very elegant costumes appeared, composed of faille side. The train at the back is plain, except for five small skirts in a large plaid pattern, and a tunic of fine cash- flounces at the bottom. The bodice is very long waisted; mere or beige material, plain grey or écru. For little à bouillonné similar to those of the skirt, but in reduced girls, also, the skirt is often made of plaid material. Ttus, proportions, is put on either side in front, while the middle skirt of blue and white plaid mohair, and corsage to match. part forms a sort of plain gilet open, with white lax, Long basque, in the shape of a tablier, put on at the back. trilling. A deep fluting is put on round the basque behind. The basque of plain blue mohair, with sash bow of white The sleeves are gathered into narrow coulissés all the way and blue material. Sleeves of the plain mohair.

down, and finished with a fluting. Beige and mohair are favourite materials for summer A very elegant dress for the evening is of pearl grey costumes for the country, or for morning wear. The two taffetas. All the fulness of the dress is thrown to the following are of an elegant simplicity :

back, the front part forming a long square tablier gathered The first is of two shades of sepia mohair, skirt in under five tiny coulissé bouillonnés on each side, and trimmed with one fine plissé of dark mohair and one of a tinished with a drapery lined with pale rose-coloured silk lighter shade abore it ; next, three bias folds, and again from which flows at the back a train of point lace over a a fine light coloured plissé and three bias folds. The tunic, still deeper train of grey silk, which sweeps the ground of plain light sepia mohair, is simply trimmed with five without any further trimming. The corners of the square rows of soutache of the darker shade, and draped at the tablier are fastened at the back by bow's of mixed pearl sides in four large hollow pleats, so as to form a tablier in grey and rose-coloured faille ribbon ; it is edged round front; at the back it falls in two long pointed lappets, the bottom by a double ruche of rose-coloured faille and a tucked up in the upper part. Cuirasse bodice, with long deep flounce of point lace, which falls over a plissé of pearl basque and open in front, with fine mohair plissé, forming grey faille, terminating the skirt in front. The low plain collarette and jabot, and plissé as cuffs to the sleeves. All cuirasse bodice is laced behind. It is trimmed with a this is of the lighter shade, trimmed with dark sepia round berthe of point lace, with ruche and bows of rosesoutache and buttons. This pretty costume would look coloured faille. Coiffure of large coques and curls, with equally well in two shades of grey or mauve.

wreath of roses. The second is of beige material; the skirt trimmed Another evening dress, for a young lady, is of much with two gathered flounces, which are deepened at the simpler style : Under slip of pale blue taffetas; the blue back so as to form the train. Each flounce is edged with skirt trimmed round the bottom with three box-pleated a band of black velvet, short tablier and shawl points at flounces. An upper-skirt of blue tulle is trimmed diathe back; also trimmed with a band of black velvet. The gonally with white tulle ruches and borders of white blond. retroussis is very prettily fastened up with black velvet A wide écharpe of blue faille is pleated at the waist, and lappets. The bodice is trimmed so as to simulate a gilet, falls in two long lappels, forming the train behind. Low

cuirasse bodice laced behind, trimmed round the top with two tiny wbite tulle ruches and a white blonde border. Cluster of Gloire de Dijon roses upon the bosom and in the hair.

The variety in Chapeaux is greater than ever. We select a few tasteful models suitable for this month.

First, an Orphée bonnet of white straw, with very wide border, lined with black velvet; and underneath, resting upon the hair, a wreath of large white Marguerites, with buds and foliage. Echarpe of crème brocaded ribbon round the crown tied in a large bow, from which droops a spray of the same blossomis.

A black chip bonnet with raised border, very high in front, trimmed with an écharpe of cardinal-red brocaded ribbon, a bunch of cream-white heather blossoms and long blackcock's feather drooping at the back. Under the border a light wreath of heather blossoms over a bandeau of black velvet, finished in long loops and lappets behind.

A bonnet of grey fancy straw of the Mignon shape, oval crown and deep flat border, placed very much at the back of the head. Round the crown wreath of ivy leaves and its small black berries, mixed in front with a tuft of long grasses and crimson poppies.

A black straw bonnet, with border raised in front and lowered at the back. This border is lined with dark blue faille, and a full wreath of lilies of the valley is placed inside. This wreath is lengthened on one side into a

long spray, trailing over the hair. On the other side it is finished by a large bow of dark blue faille. The upper part of the bonnet is trimmed with bows of the same colour.

A Deshoulière bonnet in the Shepherdess style is of white chip, with torsade of pale rose-coloured surah, brocaded foulard round the crown, forming an aigrette of large coques on one side, and drooping into a Catogan of long loops behind, with cluster of pearl-like heather blossoms. Round the torsade of rose-coloured foulard, wreath of white heather. Inside, bouillonné of white tulle and three small sprays of heather.

And a travelling hat of black straw, with high crown and brim, slightly turned up at the sides, and edged with beaded braid. Round the crown, wide band of black silk braid covered with small loops of black jet beads. At the side, large aigrette bow of black ribbon, put on with a bird's head.

The new Sunshades of the season are of light-coloured silk, with a spray of flowers embroidered on one side, in natural tints. The bouquet should be matched to the trimming of the bonnet. The handle is thick, the flat round knob at the top is of old Saxe porcelain, rococo jewellery, or tortoise-shell starred with gold.

For the country, the sunshade is of raw silk lined with light green, blue, or pink, and with a bow of ribbon to match the lining on the top. The handle is of Chinese bamboo.


the top:

WALKING DRESSES. 1. Skirt of black taffetas, made just to touch the surah tied in a bow behind, and white feathers at ground, and encircled by four gathered flounces, with tunic buttoned in front, and drawn up behind under a 2. Costume in beige Cashmere and Madras. Skirt coquillé. Over this a tablier of lilac foulard, cut in a point of the Cashmere made just to touch the ground, and (on which is placed a bow) in front, and trimmed with a trimmed with a flounce 16 inches deep, edged with a broad gathered flounce. It is arranged in a number of pleats at crossway band of the Madras. Tunic of the Cashmere the back, with a large bow. The bodice is of foulard, edged with a broad crossway band of the Madras, caught open in front, with a double turned-back collar, and neck- up and fastened at the back with a bow of ribbon to tie of white surah tied in a loose knot. The fronts, orna- match. The bodice is of Madras, with square cut basques mented with buttons to match, form a waistcoat under that end abruptly at the sides; it is open in front, with a the basques, which are rounded at the sides and short at

broad scarf of beige finished by a bow. The sleeves have the back, and simply bound with a crossway band of the cuffs of the Cashmere fastened over little quilled flounces same. The sleeves have double cuffs, also bound with of the same by buttons to match. Lingerie of embroicrossway bands, and are finished with a strap and dered muslin. Bonnet of Italian straw, with band of button. The chemisette and under-sleeves are either in Madras and bouquet of corn flowers under the brim; the rich lace or embroidery. Straw bonnet, with turned-up crown trimmed with a scarf of the Madras with long brim, lined with lilac surah, with wreath of flowers falling end, and wreath of the corn flowers carried all in front. The crown ornamented with a scarf of


DESCRIPTION OF OUR CUT-OUT PAPER PATTERN. Cut-out paper pattern of basque bodice in two colours, trimmings, namely, cuff and half of coloured pleat down with fashionable pleat down the back. This model con- the back, which must be folded in four pleats, quite sists of seven pieces, viz., front, half of back, side piece, narrow at the waist, where the pattern is notched, wider at lop of sleeve, under portion of ditto; and the coloured the neck, and forming box-pleat on the basque.


335.- Costume OF SELF-COLOURED AND STRIPED TOILE-DE-LAINE. Skirt of sale grey toile-de-laine, with deep closely pleated flounce. At the back a broad double box pleat is arranged as a train, te centre fold being striped black and grey toile. Above the flounce are three vandyked pieces of toile, edged with bands of grey grosgrain silk and deep fringe : three bows of silk define the outlines of these vandykes down the centre of the front. Jacket bodice of striped folie, with bands of grey silk. At the wrist, fine folds of silk form a simple and pretty cuff. Pearl buttons.

« PreviousContinue »