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Nos. 180, 181. FICHU OF BLACK SICILIAN CLOTH.
No. 209. Hanging wreath of blue asters, with shaded Fichu of black Sicilian cloth, with écharpes ; richly
green leaves, arranged on a spray of very small pearl trimmed with passementerie borders and fringe. Bow of
beads. black grosgrain silk.
No. 210. Spray of crimson fuchsias and leaves on a fine Nos. 184, 185 & 191.-LITTLE GIRL'S FROCK AND WALKING
stem wound round with gold cantille. JACKET.
Nos. 197, 199, & 205 to 208. VARIOUS OBJETS DE This little costume is made of poplin, and trimmed with
TOILETTE. bias folds and fancy buttons.
No. 197. Half wreath, à la couronne, of black cut glass, Nos. 186, 187. CASHMERE MANTLE.
arranged on a metal frame in narrow oval medallions. Dolman of black cashmere, with straps of worsted braid,
Nos. 199 and 206. Two ornamental hair pins of black
cut jet; circular medallion and feather pattern. passementerie buttons and black guipure lace. Bows and ends of black grosgrain silk.
No. 205. Coronet to wear with hair pins.
No. 207. Another pattern of the same ornament; three Nos. 188, 189. GIRL'S PALETOT.
star like designs, with cut centre. Paletot for little girls of 6 to 8 years old. Long mantle
No. 208. Coronet of black crystal glass, in graduated of steel blue reversible cloth, with striped passementerie
floral rosettes. and grelots. APRONS FOR LITTLE GIRLS.
Nos. 200 to 203, 211, AND 212. BONNET SHAPES. No. 190. Apron of white batiste, with chain-stitch
Fashionable bonnet shapes for the present season. embroidery of scarlet worsted. No. 194. For little girls of 4 to 6 years old. Apron of
Nos. 204 & 213. MUSLIN AND LACE FICHUS. grey lawn, vandyked round the edge and trimmed with No. 204. Fichu of mull muslin, with pleated frills of the scarlet braid and soutache.
same material, black ribbon velvet bows, and black lace. No. 195. Apron of white cambric, braided with black
No. 213. Fichu of white lace and insertion, arranged on a soutache. Outside pockets trimmed to match.
ground of stiff net, with straps of bright blue grosgrain silk. LADY'S HOOD IN NETTING, KNITTING, AND
No. 214. EMBROIDERED NET BORDER.
Trace the design on tracing paper, place over it fine The hood is of a circular shape, with two écharpes, Brussels net, and go over the outlines, veinings, and tendrils knitted in open-worked pattern with white wool.
It has a with fine thread. The wheels and lace stitches require lace crocheted trimming of blue and white wool, and a netted thread. The net is cut away from the embroidery, and the ruching of white wool and blue filoselle. It is commenced pattern finished with pearl edging. with eight stitches in the centre of the back, and then knitted to and fro as follows : 1st row: purled. 2nd row :
Nos. 215 to 218. Point LACE INSERTIONS. alternately knit 3 together, and knit i, purl 1, knit i out of
No. 215 is a singularly beautiful design, and makes up the next stitch. Repeat these 2 rows, reversing the position of the stitches, and remembering that the wrong side of the
extremely well for underlinen, etc. Trace the design care
fully on the tracing paper, over which place white mull knitting is the right side of the work. Increase or decrease at the outer edges, and set on fresh thread for the
muslin, and go over the outlines in narrow point lace braid.
The Venetian bars are next added, with purls wherever the echarpes. Crochet round the completed hood 4 rounds.
illustration directs. The small ovals and curved lines are ist round: with white wool. Double crochet, 2nd round. Alternately i double in both parts of the stitch, 3 chain,
worked in overcast stitch, and the wheels and other lace miss 1. 3rd round : 2 slipstitch, I double, * I chain, 5
stitches in point with fine lace thread. Edge the insertion
with a braid that has on either side a pearl edging, and cut treble in the centre of the next 3 chain, 'I chain, I double in the centre of the next 3 chain, repeat from *. Then i
away the muslin according to the illustration.
In No. 216 the small pattern in the centre of each slipstitch. 4th round: with blue wool *, I double in the
medallion is formed with open-work point-lace braid, and centre of the 5 treble, 5 chain, I double in the next double,
the straight stems are worked in overcast stitch. A close 4 chain, repeat from *. For the stripe arranged as a frill
braid is used for the narrow ovals of the medallions, and at the back of the hood, cast on 100 stitches, and knit to and
a pearl eding for the outside of the insertion. fro as follows : Ist row: alternately wool forward, knit 2
No. 218 requires two kinds of point lace braid and a pearl together. 2nd row : knitted. 3rd row : * twice alternately
edging ; the lace stitches are worked as usual with fine lace knit 1, wool forward, then 4 times knit 2 together, wool
thread. forward, knit i, wool forward, repeat from * The 2nd
No. 217 is a pretty design, fully repaying the amount of and 3rd rows are repeated 9 times, decreasing i at the end of each row. The foundation stitches form the lower part
time and labour required to be expended on it. It is emof the frill, and it is edged there by a crocheted row of blue
broidered with point lace braids of various widths ; Vene
tian bars and overcast stitch worked over one or more strands wool. Alternately I double in the foundation stitch over the next hole, 4 chain. This strip is pleated at the upper edge,
of thread as required by the illustration. A pearl edging is
then added to finish. and at each side, and arranged on the hood according to our illustration. The ruching at the front is netted with. No. 219. CHATELAINE BAG ORNAMENTED WITH POINT white wool over a mesh rather more than half an inch wide.
LACE. Net 4 rows, and then edge the long way of the strip with blue filoselle. This strip is arranged in double box pleats,
This elegant bag is made of black velvet, and ornaand the hood is finished off with bows of blue sarsanet
mented as shown in illustration, with point lace designs. ribbon.
CORNERS FOR COLLAR IN VENETIAN POINT, Nos. 196 & 198, 209, 210. COIFFURES FOR BALL AND The design for this collar is first traced, and fine lawn EVENING DRESS.
placed over it. The outlines are then worked in close buttonNo. 196. Marabout feather, arranged as a wreath, with a hole stitch, and the material cut away. large pink rose in the centre. From the rose falls a spray of tose buds, and edelweisz with small green leaves.
No. 221. EDGING FOR TRIMMING UNDERLINEN, POINT No. 198. Spray of different coloured pinks, with buds
LACE, BRAID, AND CROCHET. and green leaves.
The lace braid selected for this pattern must have an
openwork edge. ist row: along one side of the braid, treble
, 3 times alternately I chain, i treble, then I chain, i purl of 5 chain, and I double in the first stitch, 5 chain, i purl, 4 chain, 2 double in the last two of the 4 chain, 3 chain, i treble in the first chain of the last purl where the double was previously worked, 3 purl, i treble where the last treble was worked, 3 chain, i double in the second of the 5 chain after the last purl but one, 1 chain, i purl, 1 chain, i double in the last of the 4 treble separated by i chain, repeat from *, joining where shown by the Illustration. 2nd row: along the other side of the braid i treble, i chain, repeat.
into a circle, i slip stitch in the 6th of the 17 chain, ui treble in the 5 chain crocheted before the last double, i slip stitch in the 3 chain that formed i treble, repeat from * 2nd row : i double in the 4th of the ii treble by the side of the round pattern, * 10 chain, i long treble in the 9th of the 11 treble in the 4th of which I double was worked, I double long treble in the centre of the 5 chain between this and the next round figure, i long treble in the centre of the i treble of the next round figure, i double long treble in the centre of the 5 chain between the two round figures, i long treble in the 3rd of the ni treble of the next round, 5 chain, join to the first long treble, i double, i treble, 3 long treble, i treble, i double in the 5 chain, I slip stitch in the last long treble, 10 chain, I double in the 9th of the II treble in the 3rd of which i long treble had been crocheted before, 5 chain, I treble in the centre of the 5 chain between two rounds, 5 chain, I double in the 4th treble of the next round, repeat from * 3rd row : * 1 treble in the 5th of the next 10 chain, 5 chain, I treble in the centre of the next 3 treble, 5 chain, I treble in the 6th of the next 10 chain, twice alternately 5 chain, I treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, then 5 chain, repeat from * 4th row: I treble in every stitch.
Vos. 223, 228. EMBROIDERED BORDERS FOR POCKET
HANDKERCHIEFS. These two designs, after having been drawn upon the tracing paper, are embroidered on a ground of fine white batiste. Point lace braids of different widths and patterns are employed. The Venetian bars and overcast stitches are then worked, and the scalloped outlines closely worked in buttonhole stitch. The batiste is then cut away from the embroidery, as shown in the Illustration.
Nos. 224, 227. INSERTIONS FOR UNDERLINEN, ETC.,
MIGNARDISE AND CROCHET. For No. 224, select an ordinary mignardise braid, and commence as follows-Ist row : 12 chain, join to the fourth loop of the mignardise, then going back along the 6 of the 12 chain, crochet i leaf of i double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, i treble, i double, * i leaf of 6 chain, join to the next loop but 3. going back along the 6 chain, i double, i treble, 2 long treble, i treble, i double, then 17 chain join where you joined before, then going back along 6 of the 17 chain, i double, i treble, 2 long treble, i treble, i double, repeat from * 2nd row: take a fresh piece of mignardise, and join to the double stitch of the last leaf, * along 6 of the ni chain, I leaf of i double, i treble, 2 long treble, i treble, i double, join to the next loop but three of the 2nd braid, I leaf in the same stitch where the last double was crocheted, i double, i treble, 2 long treble, i treble, i double, repeat from * Along the other side of the braid crochet as follows—3rd row: 2 treble in every loop. 4th row: 1 treble between the groups of 2 treble, 2 chain, repeat.
No. 227 requires a braid with fourfold groups of loops on cach side. The insertion is worked in two halves as follows -Ist row : * 4 treble in the fourfold loops, I chain, i purl of 5 chain and i double in the first stitch, 1 chain, join the next 4 loops with i treble, I chain, I purl, 1 chain, repcat from * 2nd row: along the other side of the mignardise, join with i treble the two last of i fourfold loop and the two first of the next, 3 chain, repeat. This completes one half of the pattern.. The second half is crocheted in the same way, only that the purls are joined together, as shown in our Illustration. To effect this joining properly, the needle must be taken out of its stitch, placed in the stitch required to be joined, and its own stitch drawn through.
Nos. 229, 230.
EDGINGS IN MIGNARDISE AND CROCHET
FOR UNDERLINEN. For No. 229 a braid is required, which has on one side single, and on the other, threefold loops. Along the side with the single loops crochet as follows : the ist row: 3 double in the nearest loop ; 3 chain, 3 treble in the next loop, these trebles are drawn up at once instead of separately, 3 times alternately 3 chain, 3 treble long treble, to be drawn up like the last treble, then 3 chain, 3 treble drawn up as before, 3 chain, repeat. 2nd row; * 4 double in the chain scallop, 4 times alternately, I double in the next scallop, I purl of 5 chain and I double in the first chain stitch, 2 double in the same scallop, i purl, i double in the same scallop, then 4 double in the next scallop, repeat. 3rd row : along the other side of the braid, alternately I double in the 3 parts of the threefold loop, 4 chain between.
For No. 230, the mignardise should have on the one side single, and on the other, fivefold loops. Along the side with the single loops, crochet alternately I double, 2 chain, along the other side, crochet as follows---Ist row : 5 double in the separate parts of the first loop, 3 purl of 7 chain, and one double in the first stitch, miss one loop, repeat. 2nd row : 6 double in every purl.
Nos. 231, 232. CARRIAGE AND BALL OVER-SHOE.
We recommend this invaluable finish to a lady's evening dress, as a preservation against a chill to the feet, or any injury to the delicate kid or satin chaussure beneath. It is made of black lasting, lined with flannel, and soled with cork or gutta percha. The sides are scalloped, and fasten with a button and a steel clasp.
No. 233. BEAD WORK BORDER. Border for mats, baskets, urn-stands, etc. ; the design is worked in beads on fine canvas, but would look equally well if worked with wool and filoselle.
No. 225. INSERTION IN MUSLIN, APPLIQUE, AND
EMBROIDERY. The design is first traced on the muslin, then it must be carefully tacked to the net, and the design worked in satin or overcast stitch. The muslin is then cut away, as shown in Illustration.
No. 226. CROCHET EDGING FOR UNDERLINEN, ETC.
Ist row, to form the lower edge of the work : 17 chain, close the 9 last into a circle with i slip stitch, 5 chain, i slip stitch in the 11th of the 17 chain, 3 chain to form i treble, 11 treble in the 12th to 17th of the chain which was closed
No. 234. SECTION FOR CUSHION IN BERLIN WORK.
Our illustration shows the quarter of a round cushion of music stool ; it is worked in common cross-stitch, and the lightest shades in filoselle ; the selection of colours are left to personal taste.
No. 235. SLIPPER IN BERLIN WORK. This pretty slipper well repays the worker for the trouble bestowed, as the variation of colours are so exquisite when worked, they should be grounded in black.
TOPICS OF THE TIME.
House of Commons has rejected, by a majority of
forty-three, Mr. Cowper Temple's Bill, having for its object to remove doubts as to the power of the Universities of Scotland to admit women as students, and to grant degrees to them. Our readers will perhaps remember that the Scotch Court of Session recently decided that the university authorities had no power to make arrangements for the conferring degrees upon female students. Mr. Cowper's Bill proposed to declare that Parliament, in passing the existing Act, intended that there should be such a power, leaving it in the discretion of the authorities to extend the benefits of university degrees to females as well as to males. There seemed nothing very terrible in this, for, after all, the Bill was only permissive, and left the University authorities to do as they pleased in the matter. The opposition to the measure took rather a strange form. It was actually contended that the authorities were not fit to be entrusted with such a discretionary power—that, in short, the House of Commons knew very much better what was good for the universities than the universities themselves. Mr. B. Hope said the Bill was an attempt to sanction the principle of admitting women to the professions, to which he was “utterly opposed," his opposition resting on the rather amusing basis, that but one result of such a course could be produced—"in the long run, all profes. sions being thrown open without discrimination, the stronger sex would win.” If so, what was he alarmed at? When young women desire to study medicine, they are not silly enough to suppose that they will not encounter opposition, and that they will achieve success in the profession, if they are not as well qualified as men. They only ask for the same advantages in education, so that they may start fair in the race. Of all the leading professions, that of medicine is best suited for women. All medical practice does not require the strength and nerve demanded for the operating-room of a great hospital ; but there are bed-sides to be attended, where womanly qualities, united with competent medical knowledge, would be invaluable; and certainly, in the case of women and children patients, the appropriateness of female doctors is obvious. But the House of Commons decided otherwise, and the Scotch universities are closed against women.
Another Woman's Bill is before the House of Com. mons, and the opposition to it will probably rest on different and not quite such irrational grounds. The object of it is to extend the electoral franchise to women, It is very short, but a few words says a great deal—the pith being, that "in all Acts relating to the qualification and registration of voters or persons entitled or claiming to be registered, and to vote in the election of members
of Parliament, wherever words occur which import the masculine gender, the same shall be held to include females for all purposes connected with and having reference to the right to be registered as voters, and to vote in such election, any law or usage to the contrary notwithstanding.” The second reading will be taken on the 7th of April, and no doubt a lively debate will take place.
A very charming and thoughtful writer, Sir Arthur Helps, has passed away. He was the author of “ Friends in Council," a book, the classic elegance and refined tone of which sometimes veiled, until a second reading, the real depth and subtlety of thought it contained. Besides writing historical works, chiefly relating to the life of Columbus and the progress of discovery in America, Sir Arthur was the chosen literary assistant of the Queen, in preparing her “ Diary in the Highlands” for the press. Holding the position of Clerk of the Council, he had many opportunities of association with the most eminent personages, and the Queen regarded him as a private and valued friend. We have ourselves heard him speak of the high qualities exhibited by her Majesty in private life in a manner which ought to shame those who make ignorant and scurrilous attacks on royalty. The official “Court Circular" contained the memorandum, which was, no doubt, penned by the Queen herself. “By the death of Sir Arthur Helps the Queen has sustained a loss which has caused her Majesty great affliction. As a loyal subject and as a kind friend, he rendered to her Majesty very important service. He assisted, with a delicacy of feeling and an amount of sympathy which her Majesty can never forget, in the publication of her Records of the Prince Consort's Speeches' and of her 'Life in the Highlands,' to which he willingly devoted the powers of his enlightened and accomplished mind. The Queen feels that in him she has lost a true and devoted friend."
The Female School of Art, in connection with the Science and Art Department at South Kensington, is going on flourishingly. The prizes were distributed a few days since by the Earl of Aberdeen, and it was stated that in the annual competition of 123 schools of art, the students of that school had attained a satisfactory average, and that Miss Gann, the Superintendent, stood sixth on the list of sixty head-masters and mistresses.
The number of students on the books for the summer season was 203, and for the winter season, 194.
We notice in a Birmingham paper a complaint which young ladies who attend lectures will do well to take to heart. The Midland Institute in that town enjoys eminent lecturers, who attract large audiences, and of course among the number are many young ladies, and, it would seem, young gentlemen too. Older folks complain seriously that these youthful persons, "snigger, whisper,