I

PROMISED in my first letter on the subject of Something to Do few a words on Wood-cutting; but since writing that, I have met with a little book, a slight sketch of the contents of which may prove generally useful to our readers than the meagre information I could offer on one special subject. This little book is called "The Year Book of Women's Work," and is published with the view of giving assistance to women who are seeking em ployment with remuneration. Many of our readers, no doubt, are anxious for something to do merely for the sake of doing something, filling up empty, and brightening colourless lives. Work brings brightness, if it is congenial work. But some of our readers may be obliged to seek for a path in life which shall lead to independence, and for these I quote the admirable words of the author in her preface:

"A voluntary acquiescence in any ideal short of the highest possible to each individual is the first step towards deterioration of the whole character, and I therefore beg no woman to feel herself degraded by the discovery that she has to earn her own living, but rather to welcome the necessity as a divinely-appointed ordinance, by which she may, if she will, mount higher in the scale of humanity, and perform her portion of its duties still

"All for love, and nothing for reward.'"

Those who are not born in the ranks of life in which women are worked as well as men, are, even in these enlightened days, too apt to think that working for bread is a disgraceful thing. If we could count the women who now, in Great Britain, lead lives bare of enjoyment, stripped of grace and narrowed to a line, by living on insufficient incomes, we should find hundreds such. Rather than" demean themselves" by engaging in any remunerative employment, they live without books, except stray volumes which are lent, and with very little society, because they are not rich enough to entertain their friends in return, until mind and spirit become cramped and dwarfed, and the only amusement they can afford themselves-petty gossip about their neighbours' affairs-becomes the occupation of their lives. If such women were to take up some employment and throw their energies into it, they would be better as well as happier, and we should have fewer Mrs. Grundies. And nothing stands in the way of this freer, nobler life but a foolish pride that will let us hope it-be old-fashioned and outof-date in another fifty years.

The review taken in the Year Book of the employments to which women have been admitted, proves that new paths are now being opened to those of us who want "Something to Do." Book-keeping was once exclusively a man's employment; but now there are many women book-keepers. In Leeds a lady has been employed by a well-known firm, as overseer of the women employed in its factories; and in some of the large shops in London where numbers of young women are engaged, the same idea has been put in practice, to result, doubtless, in the best effects to both employer and employed.

Owing to the increasing demand for infant-schools on the Kindergarten system, the author tells us,

"There is hardly a large town in England where a lady, thoroughly versed in the real system, taught by Fröbel's disciples (not in the base imitations which too often pass current for it here), might not earn a good living by keeping an infant-school of perhaps two grades, one for the children of gentlefolks, and another for those of tradespeople."

There is a demand for lady lecturers on sanitary subjects, and also on cooking; and women secretaries are now frequently met with, whereas, a few years ago, such a thing was almost unknown.

On the subject of wood-engraving our author says: "Engraving on wood is well adapted for ladies, either as an agreeable and interesting occupation, or as a remunerative employment. The wood blocks and few engraving tools, being small and clean, can be carried in a work-bag of moderate size, and be ready at all times to take up. Hand impressions can be taken, to show the progress of the work, or the final result.

"To a lady who could copy diagrams, or design other more ornamental subjects, to superadd wood-cutting, after designs made on the block, would be a pleasing pursuit, easily acquired. With a few hints from a wood-engraver, in a single conversation, I found no difficulty in executing a diagram, and the tools cost about eight shillings."

In the chapter devoted to the consideration of "Home Employments," the author makes an excellent suggestion, to which I give place here in its details, hoping by so doing to bring it before the notice of some who may not see the little book from which I quote it, and who may be both willing and able to assist in making the idea a practical and benevolent reality.

"Could not private persons-gentlemen or ladies-rich enough to bear the incidental expenses of correspondence, carriage, etc., constitute themselves a sort of medium between a few poor ladies and the Trade. Let me instance the industry of making Fishing-flies as one which may illustrate my meaning: ascertain the kind of fly most in demand in the trade, and the season at which they will be required, the agent would supply her clients with the materials and directions for making them, pay her workers promptly the fair market value of their work, and retaining or not, as she may choose, the cost of the material, hold herself responsible for any loss. All payments should be made immediately on receipt of the goods. The materials should always be bought wholesale, and of the best description. A worse attack of illness, or a longer interval of enforced idleness, would give a superior claim. Thus, all working expenses being done away with, many of the disadvantages which accrue to the existing organizations for the sale of ladies' work would be obviated."

In old times, rich people tried to purchase salvation by building a church or an abbey. We know better nowadays; but we are apt to run into the other extreme, and content ourselves with yearly subscriptions handed over mechanically to some persevering collector. But here is an opportunity for some benevolent rich person to lay the first stone of an undertaking that may grow into a very St. Paul's among buildings. And would not one rather be the originator of a project that would brighten many sad lives of ailing women than even be a Sir Christopher Wren? SYLVIA.

IT

T is to be feared that, while but a small minority of persons dress much within their means, the majority act up to a very liberal rendering of the first line quoted above. Indeed, some tailors and milliners might say with truth that "Your habit, costly as the system of credit will permit," would seem to be the acknowledged axiom on which some persons dress. However this may be, the age of elaboration in dress is revived to a certainty. Dress has become one of the arts. One of its prime ministers is Worth, who, like some other geniuses, began life without many advantages. He made his business into an art, and in so doing raised himself. And when we see the results of study in the art of dress, we sometimes can do little but admire, and forget to settle in our own minds whether it is high art, low art, or no

art.

At the present moment the modes are particularly becoming to those who are tall and slight. In fact, absurd as it seems to say so, it is the fashion to be tall and slight! All the pattern dresses are made for figures that unite these qualifications. The following dress, for instance, which I saw at the mourning establishment of Messrs. Jay, 259, Regent Circus, would scarcely look so well on a short, stout woman as it did on the tall and graceful girl on whom I saw it. It was a black silk, with a tablier in silk also, but with stripes of black simulated embroidery on white, alternating with plain black stripes. This tablier was so long that if it had been allowed to fall its full length it would have been several inches on the ground. It was caught up, however, at about ten inches from the ground in two or three folds at each side, was draped with a scarf in black silk, formed of many close folds, this scarf coming diagonally across the front. The tablier was trimmed round the lower edge with black and white tape fringe, and up each side of the back, where it was perfectly straight, with white thread lace. The waist was very long, as they are to be worn so now, and the dress tied back very tightly indeed. This dress will convey a very good idea of the style likely to be in favour for the next few months, long waists, long skirts, long tabliers, long ends at the back, deep basques, and coat sleeves.

An attempt is being made in Paris to revive the now old-fashioned white bonnets. Black bonnets, however, are so much more becoming that I do not think the attempt will succeed at present. Perhaps when the hot weather comes we may see a few white bonnets, that is, if the hot weather will be so kind as to make any stay with us. The cold weather does not object to do that, but the visits of real summer weather are too much like those of angels. The present style of bonnet looks curious in the hand, but is remarkably becoming. The shape is more oval than round, and jet is still used in

trimming, though not so profusely as it has been. I saw a very pretty one for a girl at Messrs. Jay's, consisting of white chip, in shape rather like the oldfashioned gipsy hat of long ago, trimmed with black velvet and white flowers. Strings are coming in again, or rather a pretence of strings, for they are simply long ends of tulle or ribbon, which either float at the back or tie loosely in front or at the side, with the ends falling.

One of our correspondents wrote last month saying. that Sylvia ought to consider middle-aged as well as young Englishwomen, and I bore this in mind in my visit, and inquired particularly about coiffures suitable for ladies who are too young to wear caps, and yet like to wear something over their hair. I was shown several very pretty models in white muslin, crêpe lisse, and ribbon and Valenciennes for both morning and evening. Those trimmed round with a soft fluting of crêpe lisse, with bow of ribbon, and puffe of crêpe lisse, are, I think, the most becoming. They are worn either with or without ends at the back.

I saw also some pretty coiffures of this kind at Messrs. Debenham and Freebody's, Wigmore Street. They are made with ribbon of all colours, with a flower sometimes peeping from under a little arch of lace. Some of the bonnets at this establishment are very pretty. Quantities of flowers are used in trimming them. As to the hats, they are enormous. Indeed, if they were not, no one would know them from bonnets. The parasols are of rather large size, with moderate handles, and are all more or less trimmed. I saw here a great variety of ties trimmed with lace, gauze ties in every colour, and coquettish little black silk aprons, prettily trimmed with silk, lace, and jet.

One of the indispensables of being well-dressed according to the well-known French rule is to be bien gantée. Cheap gloves, as a rule, are a delusion and a snare, but the Copenhagen Glove is satisfactory as well as cheap. Jannings and Son, 16, Fenchurch-street, have them in all the new shades at 2s. a pair, and 2s. 9d. with two buttons. Their White Cotton Stockings also deserve praise, being fine in appearance and durable, having double heels and feet.

Another novelty has made its appearance this season, and it will no doubt be a very useful one. It is a Corset and Dress Improver in one. It is patented by Williamson, of Leighton-Buzzard, under the title of the Pro Tem, but can be had of any good draper throughout the country. The Dress Improver can be taken off if wished, but the satisfactory combination of both articles saves not only trouble and time, but expense also.

The Beatrice Collapsing Dress Improver, that I mentioned last month, is patented by Messrs. Skinner, of SYLVIA. Cox's court, Little Britain.