Nos. 76, 77. JACKET BODICE. Jacket bodice of grey silk poplin, small tight-fitting jacket, bound with black velvet, and edged with white guipure, and trimmed with passementerie buttons. The jacket, which is of an exceedingly pretty style, is open in front to show the vest of poplin. No. 80. LITTLE BOY'S AND GIRL'S Costumes. 1. Little Boy's Costume of dark blue serge, consisting of skirt and loose jacket. A braiding of black silk cord and braid, with buttons and passementerie graffes, is arranged as shown in our illustration. 2. Dress for Little Girls of Three and Five Years Old.— Dress of blue cashmere, with low bodice, waistband, frills, and tabs of the same material, piped with blue grosgrain silk; on the tabs are two large mother-o'-pearl buttons. No. 81. LITTLE GIRL'S EVENING DRESS. This pretty little dress of white muslin is made with robings in front, composed of lace insertion and embroidery. At the back there are three flounces, edged with lace, and headed with muslin insertion; jacket bodice trimmed to correspond. No. 82. LITTLE GIRL'S WALKING DRESS. Dress and fichu of satin cloth, trimmed with kilted flounce, puffing, and narrow bands, piped with satin. Felt hat, with velvet trimming and bird's wing. Nos. 83, 84. GROSGRAIN SILK FICHU. Fichu of pink grosgrain silk, edged with deep fringe at the back, and with white lace at the front. At the neck a stand-up frill of lace, turned back plain en revers in front, and finished off with a pink rose and spray. No. 85. BABY'S CASHMERE Dress. Robe of blue cashmere, with bands and puffings, piped with white taffetas. Muslin embroidered edging at the neck and sleeves. Sash, with bow and ends piped with white. The little dress would also be very pretty made of white cashmere, and piped with rose-colour, blue, or pink; coloured bows should then be sewn on the short sleeve. No. 86. WINTER HAT. Winter hat, elegantly trimmed with feather trimming and black ostrich feathers of different lengths, until the shape is entirely covered; above the brim a white foulard is twisted, the ends of which have a black stripe, and fall over at the back. No. 87. PINK CRAPE FICHU. Fichu of pale pink crepe de chine, lined with white silk and edged with insertion and lace. In front, bow of crepe de chine. No. 88. BLUE CREPE DE CHINE FICHU. Fichu of pale blue crepe de chine, with insertion of white lace, embroidered designs, and white lace edging. At the neck, stand-up frill, and bow of blue grosgrain silk. Nos. 89, 90. CHILDREN'S DRAWERS. No. 89. Drawers of fine long cloth for a little child four years old; they are gathered at the bottom of the leg, and trimmed with embroidery. No. 90. Drawers of long cloth, ornamented with several narrow tucks, and edged with embroidery. No. 91. DRESS CAP. Cap of white crepe lisse, with narrow frill of the same material, and wreath of pale pink roses. At the back an écharpe of white lace. Nos. 92, 96. JACKET BODICE FOR DINNER DRESS. Bodice of silver grey grosgrain silk, with black lace insertion, and narrow-beaded passementerie. Low, sleeveless jacket bodice of black grosgrain silk, bound with velvet, and trimmed with passementerie buttons. Nos. 93, 94. LACE FICHU. Fichu of lace and net; on a ground of plain net is a box-pleating of white lace, with a twisted wreath of turquoise blue ribbon ending in a bow and ends. At the back the lace is arranged in single pleats on a triangular piece of lace. No. 95. Boy's OVERCOAT. Paletot of black reversible cloth, with worsted braid and horn buttons; suitable for boys of eleven to thirteen years old. ** No. 99. LACE BORDER, &C., IN MIGNARDISE & CROCHET. Besides its original destination as a trimming for underlinen, this lace may be used with very good effect on paletots and dresses, looking equally well crocheted with black purse silk, or écru coloured thread. The mignardise required is the simple braid with a single row of loops on either side. Along one side of the braid, crochet as follows: I double, 5 times alternately 5 chain, I double in the next loop but one, then twice alternately 7 chain, I double in the next loop but one, then I double in the next loop, 13 chain, I double in where the last double was crocheted, I double in the next loop, repeat 13 times from *, then 6 chain; turn the work, 14 double, I in each of the previously worked chain scallops; turn the work, 2 chain, 14 double in the upper parts of the previously worked 14 double, I double in the 6th of the last 6 chain; turn the work, 6 chain, join to the single chain stitch before the last 15 double; turn the work, I double, I treble, 3 long treble, 2 double long treble, 3 long treble, I treble, I double in the last 6 chain I slip stitch in the double, crocheted after the last 14 double, 5 chain, I double in the loop where the last double was worked, I double in the next loop, II chain, join to the centre stitch of the opposite scallop of 7 chain, 6 chain, I double in the 5th of the last worked II chain, 4 chain, I double in the next loop but one, 9 chain, join to the centre stitch of the opposite scallop of 7 chain, 5 chain, I double in the 4th of the last 9 chain, 3 chain, I double in the next loop but one, then twice alternately 7 chain, join to the centre stitch of the opposite scallop of 5 chain, 4 chain, one double in the 3rd of the last 7 chain, 2 chain, I double in the next loop but one, then 5 chain, join to the centre stitch of the opposite chain scallop, 2 chain, I double in the 3rd of the last 5 chain, 2 chain, I double in the next loop but one, twice alternately 2 chain, join to the centre of the opposite scallop, 2 chain, 1 double in the next loop but one; turn the work, 3 chain, then consult the illustration, and crocheting along the other side of the mignardise, join together two loops with I double, 8 times alternately I chain, 1 double in the next loop, then I chain, join the 2 next loops with I double; turn the work, 7 chain, I treble in the chain stitch between the two centre stitches of the last 10 double with I chain between each, 7 chain, I double in the upper parts of the double stitch with which the two first loops on this side the braid were joined together, 13 times alternately I chain, I treble in the next loop, then twice alternately I chain, I double in the next loop, then I chain, I double in the 15th following loop (on the two last loops which were joined by I double) of this second side of the braid, taking care that from this point to the end of the vandyke, the working thread is kept at the back of the lace, so that the last 3 chain stitches may be crocheted on the wrong side, and that the thread may be in the proper position to begin the next vandyke, I chain, I double in the 14th loop on the last 2 loops joined with I double, I chain, I treble in the next loop, join to the opposite corresponding treble, twice alternately I chain, I treble in the next loop, then join to the opposite corresponding treble, twice alternately I chain, I treble in the following loop, then 3 chain, join to the opposite corresponding treble, 3 double in the last 3 chain, I treble in the next loop, I chain, I treble, 7 chain, join to the opposite treble, 6 chain, join to the treble which was crocheted in the chain stitch between 2 double, 6 chain, I double in the last treble, I treble in the next loop, 3 times alternately I chain, I treble in the next loop, then I chain, I slip stitch in the double that joined 2 loops of braid, turn the work, 3 chain. Consult the Illustration, and crochet on the right side of the work, I double in the next loop on that side of the mignardise in which the first stitch was crocheted; repeat from *. No. 100. CLOTHES BAG. The bag itself is made of stout grey linen, braided with scarlet worsted braid. The upper part consists of netting in double Berlin wool, and has a crocheted border. In putting the six parts together, the wrong side of the seams is covered with braid, and the right side embroidered in chain stitch of scarlet moss wool, and feather stitching of grey thread. A rosette of braid and tassel of scarlet wool finish off the bag. The 6 lambrequins are embroidered to match, and finished off with similar tassels. The netted part should be 9 or 10 inches long, and the last 6 rows are folded back and edged with crochet of grey thread. The upper edge has also a crochet border as follows:-Ist row: alternately 2 double separated by I chain, 3 chain, last of all I slip stitch. 2nd row: I double, 4 chain, the first 3 to form 1 treble, I treble in the centre of the 3 chain, I chain, I treble in the chain between 2 double, I chain; repeat from *, then I treble in the centre of the 3 chain, I chain, I slip stitch in the chain that formed I treble. 3rd row: i double 4 chain, the first 3 to form I treble, alternately I treble I chain, then I slip stitch in the treble formed by 3 chain. 4th row: alternately I double, 18 chain, then I slip stitch. Fasten and cut the thread. For the revers of netting, I row alternately I double 4 chain, then I slip stitch. 2nd row: *I double in the chain scallop, 6 times alternately 15 chain, I double in the same scallop, 15 chain, miss 2 scallop; repeat from 3rd row: alternately 2 double in each chain scallop, I chain. When the crochet is completed, thread scarlet cords and tassels through, as shown by the Illustration. Nos. 103, 104. LAMBREQUINS FOR FLOWER STANDS, ETAGERES, ETC. No. 103 is embroidered on a ground of dark green cloth, with an appliqué of fawn-coloured cloth of several shades edged with gold soutache, sewn on with black purse silk. The patterns are embroidered in satin stitch, with brown and maize-coloured purse silk. No. 104 has an appliqué of dark fawn-coloured cloth on a lighter shade of the same colour. The satin stitch is worked in a dark shade, and the knotted stitch in a paler brown. The outlines are worked round with gold cord. Nos. 101 & 105. BRAIDING DESIGNS FOR DRESSES, &c. Borders for braiding dresses, mantles, etc.; the designs are worked with braids of two different widths or shades, in the centre of each curl, as a small star composed of beads; other beads are dotted at intervals, as in Illustration. Nos. 106 & 108. INSERTIONS FOR WASHING MATERIALS IN MIGNARDISE AND CROCHET. No. 108. For this a braid is required which has on both sides fourfold loops. Crochet along one side of the mignardise as follows-1st row: *1 double in 3 of the first fourfold loop, twice alternately I chain, I double, in the fourth of the same loop, then I chain, repeat from *. 2nd row: * 2 treble in the single chain stitch between 2 double, 3 chain, I double in the single chain stitch between 2 double; turn the work, 4 chain, 4 times alternately I treble in the 3 chain of this row, I chain, then I treble in the same 3 chain where the 4 treble were crocheted; turn the work, 6 chain, I treble in the next single chain stitch but one before the previously-crocheted 5 treble, 3 chain, I treble in the next single chain stitch but one, 3 chain, I double in the 4th of the previously worked 4 chain, repeat from *. 3rd row: alternately 2 double in the next chain scallop, 7 chain. 4th row: alternately I treble 2 chain miss 2; repeat the pattern along the other side of the braid. I No. 106 is worked with a mignardise braid, which has on the one side single, and on the other fivefold loops. Ist row along the side with the fivefold loops, I treble in the first of the fivefold loop, 3 double in the 3 following loops, I treble in the last of the same loop, 7 chain, miss 1 fivefold loop; repeat. 2nd row: *3 chain in the 3 double twice alternately, 3 chain, I double in the 7 chain, then 3 chain; repeat. 3rd row: * I treble in the centre of the 3 treble, 4 chain, 7 double in the 3 chain between 2 double, 4 chain; repeat. 4th row: * alternately I treble, 6 chain, I treble in the centre of the following 7 chain, 6 chain; repeat. 5th row along the other side of the mignardise, alternately I double in 2 loops, 7 chain. The other half of the insertion is crocheted in the same way, joining where the Illustration directs. No. 107. POINT LACE CORNER FOR COllar. This corner is worked in button-hole, and various lace stitches, and edged with purls. Nos. 109, 110. EMBROIDERED BORDERS. Beautiful designs for embroidery borders for shirt fronts. The stitches required in each pattern are plain, satin, and overcast. No. III. POINT LACE. When the design has been drawn on the tracing paper, the point lace braid is carefully sewn on, and the separate patterns are joined with Venetian bars. The wheels are then worked, and the lace is finished off with a pearl edging. No. 112. CROCHET EDGING. On a chain of 13 stitches, crochet as follows: Ist row, 9 chain, 2 treble separated by I chain in the 7th of the 13 foundation chain, 2 treble separated by I chain in the next stitch but 2, I treble in the next stitch but 2: 2nd row: turn the work, 4 chain, twice 2 treble separated by I chain in the next chain stitch between 2 treble, then 12 double in the next 9 chain. 3rd row: turn the work, I chain, I purl of 5 chain, and I slip stitch in the first stitch, I treble in the upper parts of the next stitch, 5 times alternately I purl, 2 treble in the next 2 stitches, taking care to draw up the slip stitch of the purl with the upper parts of the following treble stitches, then twice alternately 2 treble separated by one chain, in the next chain between 2 treble, then I treble in the 3rd of the first 4 chain. 4th row: turn the work, 4 chain, twice 2 treble separated by 1 chain in the next chain stitch between 2 treble, then 3 chain, join to the centre of the next purl, 3 chain; repeat the 1st to the 4th row, joining as required by the Illustration. No. 113. EDGING IN MIGNARDISE BRAID AND CROCHET. The braid selected for this edging should have a fourfold group of loops on each side. Along one side crochet * I double in I fourfold loop, 3 chain, I double in the next fourfold loop, I chain, I purl of 5 chain, and I double in the 1st chain, I chain; repeat from *. 2nd row: alternately I double in the centre of the 3 chain, 13 treble in the following purl. 3rd row along the other side of the braid, I double in the 2 last of the first, and the 2 first of the second fourfold loop, alternately 4 chain, I double in the 2 last of the 2nd, and the 2 first of the following fourfold loop. |