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"The County of Durham is bounded by Northumberland on the North, by the German Ocean on the East, by Yorkshire on the South and South-West, and by Westmoreland, Cumberland, and Northumberland, on the West and North-West. Within these limits it forms a triangle, with the apex towards the West, and the base resting on the German Ocean. The Tyne forms the Northern boundary from its mouth till it receives the Stanley Burn, two miles East of Prudhoe Castle, and near Bradley Mill; the boundary then follows the course of the Stanley Burn Southwards (passing French's Close, Buck's Nook, and Ravenside), to its source, from whence a short imaginary line intervenes betwixt that and the source of the Milkburn, which rivulet then forms the boundary, and runs Southward till it joins the Darwent at Chopwell; from hence the boundary ascends the course of the Darwent, full Westward, as far as Blanchland; here a wild and irregular line of demarcation commences, marked only by crosses and boundary stones, and passing by Boltslaw, Sheriffstone, Shorngate Cross, and Stoggle Cleugh Head, reaches the North-Western apex of the County at the boundary currough near Kilhopelaw, touching both Cumberland and. Northumberland; from hence an imaginary line runs SouthWestwards, by Kilhope Cross, Shorts Cross, and Headstones, to the head of Tees, which, rising in Yade-Moss *, betwixt Durham and Westmoreland, and flowing South-East, completes the SouthWestern and Southern boundary till it falls into the Ocean. - The County of Durham, betwixt Tyne, Tees, and Darwent, contains 610,000 square acres; its greatest length from East to West is 45 miles; its greatest breadth 36; and Its circumference nearly 180 miles. Besides the City of Durham, the County

includes seven antient Boroughs, by charter or prescription: Hartlepool, Barnard Castle, Auckland, Darlington, Sunderland, Stockton, and Gateshead; and four other Market-Towns, Staindrop, Wolsingham, Stanhope, and Sedgefield. Darlington, Stockton, Easington, and The County is divided into four Wards: Chester, The County of Durham arose gradually out of Northumberland (a term which originally intended every thing North of the Humber), together with the increasing patrimony of the Church; and, besides the main body of the County, lying betwixt Tyne, Tees, and Darwent, includes several scattered members of that Patrimony: 1. Norhamshire and Islandshire, including Holy Island, and the Farne Isles, and a portion of the main land extending from the Tweed North and North-West, to the sea on the East, and separated from Northumberland on the South partly by the course of the Till, and partly by an imaginary line. 2. Bedlingtonshire, lying in the heart of Northumberland, betwixt the rivers Blyth and Wansbeck. These are usually termed the North Bishoprick, and are included in Chester Ward. 3. The insulated territory of Crake, in the wapontake of Bulmer in Yorkshire, which is considered as parcel of Stockton Ward. -The Population of the whole County amounts, under the latest returns, to 178,078; of whom 10,356 belong to the North Bishoprick, and 453 to Crake.

"ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION.

The

Diocese of Durham ineludes the Counties of Durham and Northumberland (with the exception of the Peculiar of Hexham, belonging to the Archbishoprick of York). The Diocese is divided into the Archdeaconries of Durham and Northumberland: the former is subdivided into the Deaneries of Chesterin-the-Street, Darlington, Easington, and Stockton; the latter into those of Alnwick, Bambrough, Corbridge, Morpeth, and Newcastle."

This Portion of the Volume contains a Topographical Account of Easington Ward, the situation and general appearance of which is thus described :

"Easington Ward includes a portion

* "Leland. In modern maps a brook, forming part of the boundary betwixt Durbam and Westmoreland, is called the Crookburn, rising in Crossfell and falling into the deep pool of the Weel, where the waters of Tees sleep before they thunder down the precipice of Caldron Snout.”

GENT. MAG. November, 1816.

of

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of the sea-coast of the County of Durb'am, from the mouth of the Wear on the North to a point betwixt Blackhalls and Hartlepool on the South. The

Wear divides it from Chester Ward on the North, and on the West, as far as

the junction of the Croxdale Beck with the Wear, near Sunderland Bridge. The Croxdale or Tursdale Beck then forms

the Western boundary, separating Easington from Darlington Ward, to a point in Tursdale estate, where Darlington, Stockton, and Easington Wards meet. An imaginary line then commences, sometimes following and sometimes leaving the course of Cornforth or Kelloe Beck, and, passing along the extreme verge of Kelloe Parish, and through that of Hart, forms the Southern boundary of Easington Ward, dividing it from that of Stockton. Within these limits Easington Ward forms an oblong square, narrowest at the North, and broadest at the South, and of which the Western boundary is very irregularly formed by the windings of the Wear. The general aspect of the Eastern coast of Durham is bare and dreary, and the soil, except ing where improved by artificial culture, generally a cold harsh clay, intersected by chains of limestone, whose tame, monotonous forms, destitute of wood, and frequently ploughed to their summits, exclude alike the romantic grandeur of a mountainous region, and the softer features of the Southern grazing districts. Yet there are beauties which may escape the eye of a casual observer. Betwixt the swells of country lie numerous dales or denes almost entirely concealed from the higher grounds. Every

brook which falls to the sea has its

banks adorned with a profusion of wild and varying scenery; the vales comthe course of their little streamlets, mencing imperceptibly together with

sometimes contract themselves into narrow glens, scarce affording a single rugged foot-path; sometimes open into irregular amphitheatres of rock, covered with native ash or hazel, or deepen into ravines resembling the bed of a rapid river, terminating on the coast either in wide sandy bays, or in narrow outlets, where the stream mines its way under crags of the wildest and most grotesque appearance."

The Parochial History then commences; and contains the Parishes of Dalton-le-Dale, Easington, CastleEden, Hesleden, Hart, Kelloe, Trimdon, Pittington, Houghton-le-Spring,

Bishop-Wearmouth, Sunderland, and Seaham. From all and every of these Parishes it would be easy to give pleasing extracts, and to multiply instances of the Author's successful exertions. We are, however, almost irresistibly led to Houghton-le-Spring, the residence of that Apostle of the North, Bernard Gilpin, of whole life an excellent epitome is here given, chiefly selected from his first Biographer, Bp. Carleton; but, as the history of this venerable Pastor is very generally known, we shall pass on to the succeeding Rectors of Houghton.

"Inimitable almost as was the character of Gilpin, his Church has never been left destitute; and can boast a succession of Pastors, on all of whom a portion at least of the Northern Apostle's spirit has descended."

After noticing the charitable Bequests of the Rev. George Davenport and Dr. Bagshaw, Mr. Surtees gives the following interesting Memoir, accompanied by an excellent Portrait*:

"Sir George Wheler, D. D. who succeeded Dr. Bagshaw in the Rectory of Houghton-le-Spring, was descended from an antient family of gentry who had been possessed of property in the CounCol. Charles Wheler of the Guards, sufties of Kent and Middlesex; his father, fered for his loyalty to King Charles F. and Sir George was born whilst his parents were on that account in exile at

Breda in Holland. In 1667 he became
a Member of Lincoln College in Oxford,
but before he had taken a degree, he
went abroad with Dr. James Spon of
Lesser Asia and Greece.
Lyons, and embarking at Venice, sailed
to Constantinople, and travelled through
On his return
be received the honour of knighthood,
and in 1683, the degree of A. M. from
the University of Oxford; he published
an account of his travels, and of several

antiquities in Greece and Asia Minor, in
1682, and presented several pieces of
antiquity which he had collected to the
University; his valuable casket of Greek
Medals he afterwards gave by will to the
Dean and Chapter Library of Durham,
About 1683, Sir George entered into
holy orders, contrary to the wishes of
several powerful friends, who would will-
ingly have supported his interest at
Court. His sense of the sacred office
which he had undertaken may be best

*Copied from a painting at Houghton Hall, in a surplice and red scarf, black scull-cap, grey hair, and mild venerable countenance.

expressed

expressed in his own words: 'I cannot but wonder how it comes to pass that the dignity of priesthood is so contemned in our days; sure it must be either because those that have the honour conferred on them dishonour it by misusing it, or men ignorantly know not either how to value so great a favour from God and man, or to enjoy so great a happiness. If I have any skill to chuse what in my opinion is best and most eligible, I would much rather be an understanding Vicar of a moderately endowedChurch,than to be the most rich, if vicious, Lord of the Manor for indeed he (the Vicar) is to be esteemed the Chief of a Christian Parish, and General of so many Convents and Monasteries as he has houses in his Parish; and if he lives there and doth his duty, deserves to wear a mitre better than the Abbot of St. Denys, and, in plain terms, a non-resident Bishop who absents himself from his flock upon any terms besides the affairs of his Diocese, or service of his King and Country.' In 1684, Sir George was collated by Bp. Crewe to the second Stall in Durham Cathedral; and in 1708, being then Vicar of Basingstoke in Hants, was promoted by the same Patron to the Rectory of Houghton-le-Spring. Lord Crew's political opinions are well known; and Sir George, descended from parents in whom loyalty was an inheritance, participated probably in some degree in the sentiments of his Patron. It is obscurely binted that one unworthy personage of Sir George's own numerous family endeavoured to bring his venerable kinsman into disgrace and danger, for some unguarded expressions of attachment to the unfortunate House of Stuart. But, whatever might be Sir George's feelings of compassion for the banished descendants of a Prince for whom his ancestors had fought and suffered, his sincere attachment to the Church of England preserved him steady in his allegiance to that Establishment under which religious liberty had found shelter from the attacks of arbitrary power, and the integrity of his heart and the innocence of his hands' defied suspicion. At an earlier period Sir George had been accused by a thankless dependent of omitting the usual prayers for the established Government -'a more groundless accusation,' says Sir George, could not be imagined, nor one from which I could more easily clear myself. As I submitted to the present Government as I am perswaded in conscience I ought to do, so have I done nothing ever since against, or disrespectfull towards it. I am much concerned to be so abused be

fore their Majesties, for whose health and happiness are still a part of all my devotions both private and publicke, though my humble designs never prompted me to importune them at Court.'Many interesting traits of Sir George Wheler's character and disposition may be gathered from his printed works (which afford the strongest internal evidence of coming from the heart as well as the head), and from much of his correspondence, which is still preserved in the family. His religion, though austere in regard to himself, never rendered him harsh or severe in his judgment of others, and, however strict in his own observances, he was neither an enemy to innocent recreations nor to personal accomplishments, when consistent with the purity of the Christian character; and though sincerely attached, both by judgment and inclination, to the discipline and institutes of that Church of which he was a member, his zeal and charity embraced the whole Christian world. Nor will it on the whole, perhaps, be more than justice to conclude; that few ever more happily united the dignified manners and sentiments of birth and rank with the venerable simplicity and modesty of the Christian pastor, than Sir George Wheler. - Sir Geo. Wheler died at Durham Jan. 18, 1723, and was buried in the Galilee of Durham Cathedral, where a handsome monument is erected to his memory by his only surviving son, Granville Wheler.➡ With a spirit worthy of the successor of Bernard Gilpin, Sir George Wheler bequeathed all the arrears which should be due at the time of his death from his spiritual promotions, to charitable purposes within the Parish of Houghton-leSpring. This sum, amounting to upwards of 5001. was applied in augmentation of the revenues of Davenport's Almshouses. He also left 600l. for the establishment of a perpetual School for thirty poor girls, of whom twelve are cloathed. In 1693, Sir George Wheler had erected, principally at his own expence, though assisted by a Mr. Seymer of Lombardstreet, a Chapel for his tenants in Spitalfields; and his will intimates an intention of giving up this Chapel to the French Protestants, and of establishing an Almshouse for his decayed tenants there-but neither of these designs were executed. He gave 507. by will to the Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge, and an exhibition of 101. a year for ever to a poor scholar that shall be of Lincoln College, Oxford, and bred up at the Grammar-school of Wye in Kent.'-Granville Wheler, the youngest but only surviving son of Sir George,

took

took holy orders in obedience to a desire expressed in his father's will. He is known as the author of some papers in the Philosophical Transactions, and was Rector of Leak in Nottinghamshire, and Prebendary of Southwell; he rebuilt his father's Chapel in Spitalfields, and rebuilt and endowed the Parish Church of Otterden. In 1727, Mr. Wheler purchased the Manor of Otterden, which still continues the seat of his descendant."

An excellent Memoir of the Rev. John Rotheram*, A. M. next follows, for which we refer to the Work itself.

Having an opportunity of presenting our Readers with a correct representation of Houghton Hall (see Plate II.), we shall select Mr. Surtees's description of this curious specimen of early domestic architecture:

"Robert Hutton, S. T. B. Prebendary of the Third Stall in Durham Cathedral, and Rector of Houghton from 1589 to 1623, acquired a considerable property by purchase from different individuals within the Manor of Houghton. His grandson, Robert Hutton, Esq. bore a captain's commission of a troop of horse-guards in Cromwell's army. He served through the whole of the Scottish campaign; and was with Monk at the storming and plunder of Dundee. After the Restoration he remained zealously attached to the Puritans; which may probably account for his being buried in his own orchard, where an altarTomb still bears the following inscription:

HIC IACET ROBERTVS
HVTTON ARMIGER QVI
OBIIT AVG. Die nono 1680.

ET MORIENDO VIVIT.

-To this gentleman, who is the theme of much village tradition, the building of the family mansion-house is generally attributed and, if the same tradition be credited, with the plunder obtained at the sacking of Dundee; but the building itself affords strong evidence of an earlier date, and may more probably be ascribed to the Rector of Houghton, the founder of the family, betwixt the years 1589 and 1623. Its external structure is an oblong square, the corresponding sides exactly uniform, and the chief front to the West equally plain with the rest, without façade, or ornamented doorway. The windows are regular, divided into five, or into three lights, by stone mullions; and the leads

are surrounded by a plain pediment. The mansion has undergone little either of repair or alteration; and, as it has been built with a massy solidity, calculated to resist the injuries of time and neglect, it presents, perhaps, at this day one of the most perfect specimens extant of the plain durable style of architecture which distinguished the Old Hall House, the residence of the middling gentry in the age of James or Elizabeth. From Captain Hutton the estate bas descended lineally to the present owner, the Rev. John Hutton, M. A.”

Under the Parish of Pittington is given a very ample account of Sherburn Hospital, taken from the printed, but not generally published, Collections of George Allan, esq.

An uncommonly fine View of the Iron Bridge at Sunderland, engraved by Mr. George Cooke, in his best style, from a drawing by Mr. Blore, has induced us to extract Mr. Surtees's account of it; more particularly as the Bridge has lately been brought into notice by a public Lottery :

"The antient passage of the river was by two ferry-boats: the Pann-boat, a little below the situation of the present Bridge, and the Low-boat, which still continues nearer to the Harbour. In 1790, Rowland Burdon, esq. conceived the idea of throwing an arch of cast iron over the Wear, and after some opposition, an Act of Parliament was obtained for the purpose in 1792. The use of construction of the arch at Coalbrookiron had been already introduced in the Dale, and in the bridges built by Payne; but the novelty and advantage of the plan adopted at Wearmouth, on Mr. Burdon's suggestion, consisted in retaining, together with the use of a metallic material, the usual form and principle of the stone arch, by the subdivision of the iron into blocks, answering to the keystones of a common arch, and which, with a much greater degree of lightness, possess, when brought to bear on each other, all the firmness of the solid stone arch. The blocks are of cast iron, five feet in depth and four in thickness, having three arms, and making part of a circle or ellipsis; the middle arm is two feet in length, and the other two in proportion; on each side of the arms are flat grooves three-fourths of an inch deep and three inches broad, in which are inserted bars of malleable or wrought iron, which connect the blocks with

*This highly-respectable Clergyman is also fully noticed in the VIIIth and IXth Volumes of Nichols's "Literary Anecdotes."

each

each other, and are secured by square
bolts driven through the shoulders and
arms of the blocks and bar-iron, fastened
by cotterells or forelocks. The whole
structure consists of six ribs, each con-
taining 105 of these blocks, which butt
on each other like the voussoirs of a

:

stone arch. The ribs are six feet distant from each other, braced together by hollow tubes or bridles of cast iron; and thus the blocks being united with each other in ribs, and the ribs con'nected and supported laterally by the bridles, the whole becomes one mass, having the property of key-stones cramped together. The whole weight of the iron is 260 tons; 46 malleable, and 214 cast. The piers or abutments are piles of nearly solid masonry, 24 feet in thickness, 42 in breadth at bottom, and 37 at the top the South pier is founded on the solid rock; on the North, from the less favourable nature of the ground, the foundation is carried ten feet below the bed of the river. The arch is the segment of a large circle, of which the chord or span is 236 feet; the height from low water to the spring of the arch 60 feet; and its versed sine 34 feet; producing so flat an arch, that ships of 300 tons pass the arch within 50 feet of its centre with great facility, having 94 feet clear at low water, and abundance of depth in the mid-stream. The spandrils of the arch are filled with iron circles, diminishing from the abutment to

tect.

lume are deserving of the highest All the Plates given with this Vocommendation. The subjects of the more principal ones, besides those already noticed, are, Two Views of Durham Cathedral (1. Interior of piece to the Volume, and 2. Entrance the Choir, which forms the Frontisfrom the Cloisters ;) and Hartlepoole Church. These are from drawings by Mr. Blore, who has been ably seconded by the burins of Mr. Henry Le Keux, Mr. Byrne, and Mr. John Le Keux. A Landscape of Lambton Hall, from a painting by Glover, is The five Plates of Seals, also, from most delightfully engraved by J. Pye. drawings by Mr. Blore, are executed with a truth and feeling that cannot be exceeded. Indeed all the Plates in the Volume are so truly excellent, that we besitate not to say, they are equal, if not superior, to any ever before published in a County History.

Work will be eagerly coveted by all
We doubt not that this valuable
Topographical Collectors; and from
received by the Gentlemen in and
the avidity with which it has been
near the County of Durham, we ven-
ranked among the Libri rariores.
ture to predict, that it will soon be

Amusements in Retirement; conti

nued from our last, p. 340.

THIS Volume is divided into the general heads of Happiness, Musick, Literature, and Science; each of subdivisions, set forth in a copious which branches off into numerous Table of Contents.

taining as those in the "Philosophy The articles in general are as enterof Nature," but they bear evident marks of that sombre turn of thought alluded to in our last.

the centre; the superstructure is of 59. timber, planked over, and supporting the carriage-road, formed of marle, gravel, and limestone. The whole breadth is 32 feet, with footpaths on each side, laid with flags, and bounded by an iron balustrade. The whole of this magnificent structure was completed within three years, under the able and zealous direction and inspection of Mr. Thomas Wilson, of Bishop-Wearmouth, archiThe arch was turned on a light scaffolding, which gave no interruption whatever to the navigation of the river, and the mode of bracing the ribs was so expeditious, that the whole structure was put together and thrown over the river in ten days, and the frame immediately removed. The foundation-stone was laid the 24th September, 1793, and the Bridge was thrown open to the Publick amidst a vast concourse of spectators on the 9th of August, 1796. — The whole expence of the undertaking was 26,000l. of which 22,000l. was subscribed by Mr. Burdon; the sums thus advanced are secured on the tolls with 5 per cent interest, and all further accumulation goes in discharge of the capital."

We take as an example :

"The miseries of those who have no ties

of friendship or affection.

"Whatever be his rank, his wealth, fortunate, who has no ties of friendship, or his ability, no one can be esteemed of blood, or of humanity, to chain him to existence. He creeps upon the earth as a worm! The sun sets, the evening star rises, flowers expand, and the autumnal moon lulls all nature; but to him every joy is in perspective, his bosom is void, and his heart is cheerlessfor no one hails him as a friend, and no one regards him as a brother, or benefactor. Well and often has it been said,

that

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