Page images
PDF
EPUB

stomach traversed by a system of veins,"* All the prunning, therefore, that is necessary, when a tree is properly transplanted, will be comprised in paring smooth all bruises, or accidental injuries, received by the roots or branches during the operation, or the removal of a few that may interfere with elegance of form in the head.

Next in importance to the requisite care in performing the operation of transplanting, is the proper choice of individul trees to be transplanted. In making selections for removal among our fine forest trees, it should never be forgotten that there are two distinct kinds of subjects even of the same species of every tree, viz: those that grow among and surrounded by other trees or woods, and those which grow alone, in free open exposures, where they are acted upon by the winds, storms, and sunshine, at all times and seasons. The former class it will always be exceedingly difficult to transplant successfully, even with the greatest care; while the latter may always be removed with comparatively little risk of failure.

Any one who is at all familiar with the growth of trees in woods or groves somewhat dense, is also aware of the great difference in the external appearance between such trees and those which stand singly in open spaces. In thick woods, trees are found to have tall, slender trunks with comparatively few branches except at the top, smooth and thin bark, and they are scantily provided with roots, but especially with the small fibres so essentially necessary to insure the growth of the tree when transplanted. Those, on the other hand, which stand isolated, have short thick stems, numerous branches, thick bark and a great abundance of root and small fibres. The latter, accustomed to the full influence of the weather, to cold winds, as well as open sunshine, have, what Sir Henry Steuart has aptly denominated, the "protecting properties" well developed being robust and hardy, they are well calculated to endure the violence of the removal, while trees growing in the midst of a wood, sheltered from the tempests by their fellows, and scarcely ever receiving the sun and air freely except at their topmost branches, are too feeble to withstand the change of situation, when removed to an open lawn, even when they are carefully transplanted.

"Of trees in open exposures," says Sir Henry, "we find that their

*Theory of Horticulture.

peculiar properties contribute, in a remarkable manner, to their health and prosperity. In the first place, their shortness and greater girth of stem, in contradistinction to others in the interior of woods, are obviously intended to give to the former greater strength to resist the winds, and a shorter lever to act upon the roots. Secondly, their larger heads, with spreading branches, in consequence of the free access of light, are as plainly formed for the nourishment, as well as the balancing of so large a trunk, and also for furnishing a cover to shield it from the elements. Thirdly, their superior thickness and induration of bark is, in like manner, bestowed for the protection of the sap-vessels, that lie immediately under it, and which, without such defence from cold, could not perform their functions. Fourthly, their greater number and variety of roots are for the double purpose of nourishment and strength; nourishment to support a mass of such magnitude, and strength to contend with the fury of the blast. Such are the obvious purposes for which the unvarying characteristics of trees in open exposures are conferred upon them. Nor are they conferred equally and indiscriminately upon all trees so situated. They seem, by the economy of nature, to be peculiar adaptations to the circumstances and wants of each individual, uniformly bestowed in the ratio of exposure, greater where that is more conspicuous and uniformly decreasing, as it becomes less."*

Trees in which the protecting properties are well developed are frequently to be met with on the skirts of woods: but those standing singly here and there through the cultivated fields and meadows of our farm lands, where the roots have extended themselves freely in the mellow soil, are the finest subjects for removal into the lawn, park, or pleasureground:

The machine used in removing trees of moderate size is of simple construction; consisting of a pair of strong wheels about five feet high, a stout axle, and a pole about twelve feet long. In transplanting, the wheels and axle are brought close to the trunk of the tree, the pole is firmly lashed to the stem, and when the soil is sufficiently removed and loosened about the roots, the pole, with the tree attached, is drawn down to a horizontal position, by the aid of men and a pair of horses. When the tree is thus drawn out of the hole, it is well secured and properly balanced upon the machine, the horses are fastened in front of the mass of

* The Planter's Guide, p. 105.

roots by gearings attached to the axle, and the whole is transported to the destined location.

In order more effectually to insure the growth of large specimens when transplanted, a mode of preparing beforehand a supply of young roots, is practised by skilful operators. This consists in removing the top soil, partially undermining the tree, and shortening back many of the roots; and afterwards replacing the former soil by rich mould or soil well manured. This is suffered to remain at least one year, and often three or four years; the tree, stimulated by the fresh supply of food, throws out an abundance of small fibres, which render success, when the time for removal arrives, comparatively certain.

It may be well to remark here, that before large trees are transplanted into their final situations, the latter should be well prepared by trenching, or digging the soil two to three feet deep; intermingling throughout the whole a liberal portion of well decomposed manure, or rich compost. To those who are in the habit of planting trees of any size in unprepared ground, or that merely prepared by digging one spit deep and turning in a little surface manure, it is inconceivable how much more rapid is the growth, and how astonishingly luxuriant the appearance of trees when removed into ground properly prepared. It is not too much to affirm, that young trees under favourable circumstances,-in soil so prepared, will advance more rapidly and attain a larger stature in eight years, than those planted in the ordinary way, without deepening the soil, will in twenty; and trees of larger size in proportion,-a gain of growth surely worth the trifling expense incurred in the first instance. And the same observation will apply to all planting. A little extra labour and cost expended in preparing the soil will, for a long time, secure a surprising rapidity of growth.

In the actual planting of the tree, the chief point lies in bringing every small fibre in contact with the soil, so that no hollows or interstices are left, which may produce mouldiness and decay of the roots. To avoid this the soil must be pulverized with the spade before filling in, and one of the workmen, with his hands and a flat dibble of wood, should fill up all cavities, and lay out the small roots before covering them in their natural position. When watering is thought advisable, (and we practice it almost invariably,) it should always be done while the planting is going forward. Poured in the hole when the roots are

just covered with soil, it serves to settle the loose earth compactly around the various roots, and thus both furnishes a supply of moisture, and brings the pulverized mould in proper contact for growth. Trees well watered when planted in this way, will rarely require it afterwards; and should they do so, the better way is to remove two or three inches of the top soil, and give the lower stratum a copious supply; when, the water having been absorbed, the surface should again be replaced. There is no practice more mischievous to newly moved trees, than that of pouring water, during hot weather, upon the surface of the ground above the roots. Acted upon by the sun and wind, this surface becomes baked, and but little water reaches the roots; or just sufficient perhaps to afford a momentary stimulus, to be followed by increased sensibility to the parching drought.

With respect to the proper seasons for transplanting, we may remark that, except in extreme northern latitude, autumn planting is generally preferred for large, hardy, deciduous trees. It may commence as soon as the leaves fall, and may be continued until winter. In planting large trees in spring, we should commence as early as possible, to give them the benefit of the April rains; if it should be deferred to a later period, the trees will be likely to suffer greatly by the hot summer sun before they are well established.

The transplanting of evergreens is generally considered so much more difficult than that of deciduous trees, and so many persons who have tolerable success in the latter, fail in the former, that we may perhaps be expected to point out the reason of these frequent failures.

Most of our horticultural maxims are derived from English authors, and among them, that of always planting evergreens either in August, or late in autumn. At both these seasons, it is nearly impossible to succeed in the temperate portions of the United States, from the different character of our climate at these seasons. The genial moisture of the English climate, renders transplanting comparatively easy at all seasons, but especially in winter; while in this country, our Augusts are dry and hot, and our winters generally dry and cold. If planted in the latter part of summer, evergreens become parched in their foliage, and soon perish. If planted in autumn or early winter, the severe cold that ensues, to which the newly disturbed plant is peculiarly alive, paralyzes vital action, and the tree is so much enfeebled that, when spring arrives, it

survives but a short period. The only period, therefore, that remains for the successful removal of evergreens here, is the spring. When planted as early as practicable in the spring, so as to have the full benefit of the abundant rains so beneficial to vegetation at that season, they will almost immediately protrude new shoots, and regain their former vigour.

Evergreens are, in their roots, much more delicate and impatient of dryness than deciduous trees; and this should be borne in mind while transplanting them. For this reason, experienced planters always choose a wet or misty day for their removal; and, in dry weather, we would always recommend the roots to be kept watered and covered from the air by mats during transportation. When proper regard is paid to this point, and to judicious selection of the season, evergreens will not be found more difficult of removal than other trees.

Another mode of transplanting large evergreens, which is very successfully practised among us, is that of removing them with frozen balls of earth in mid-winter. When skilfully performed, it is perhaps the most complete of all modes, and is so different from the common method, that the objection we have just made to winter planting, does not apply to this case. The trees to be removed are selected, the situations chosen, and the holes dug, while the ground is yet open in autumn. When the ground is somewhat frozen, the operator proceeds to dig a trench around the tree at some distance, gradually undermining it, and leaving all the principal mass of roots embodied in the ball of earth. The whole ball is then left to freeze pretty thoroughly, (generally till snow covers the ground,) when a large sled drawn by oxen, is brought as near as possible, the ball of earth containing the tree rolled upon it, and the whole is easily transported to the hole previously prepared, where it is placed in the proper position; and as soon as the weather becomes mild, the earth is properly filled in around the ball. A tree, either evergreen or deciduous, may be transplanted in this way, so as scarcely to show, at the return of growth, any ill effects from its change of location.

II.

Description of an English Suburban residence, CHESHUNT COTTAGE. With views and plans showing the arrangement of the house and grounds. And the mode of managing the whole premises.

[The following description of an interesting suburban residence near

« PreviousContinue »