the primitive state of society in this country, and that, in this ancient kingdom of Bashan, the lapse of three thousand years has effected but little change in manners and customs. The hospitality of former days still remainsstrangers could not then pass the house or tent of the patriarch without being constrained to go in and take food; and so it is even now. The wonderful expedition in the preparation of food, when the lamb, or kid, or fatted calf was brought and killed, and the bread was kneaded and baked, and the dainties thus hastily prepared were set before the stranger-all this is illustrated here, at the present time, and in the ordinary incidents of every-day life. It seemed to me, as I wandered among these hills of Bashan, as if time had retrograded many long centuries. The strange stories I used to read in boyhood beside a mother's knee, in that ponderous old Bible, were now realized. These surely are the tents of Abraham; or these are the dwellings of Israel. These are the very salutations with which the patriarchs were wont to address strangers; and these the prayers for their safety and welfare when they took their departure. At whatever house we lodged a sheep or a lamb was killed for us, and fresh bread baked. It was sometimes near sunset when we reached the house; but in due time the dainties appeared. To whatever village we went among the Druzes, pressing invitations were given us to stay and eat. Once and again has one seized. my horse's bridle, and said, "Will not my lord descend while his servants prepare a little food?" In one village our intercession saved a lamb which we saw hurried away to slaughter just as we entered the street, before even a word had been spoken. The chief had seen us approach

ing, and "he made haste to kill a lamb;" fortunately we were in time to save it, by assuring its hospitable master that we could not remain. At another village where we took refuge from a passing shower, we observed the flour taken and the water poured upon it, to prepare unleavened cakes; and it was with much difficulty we could prevent the work from being prosecuted.

These things may seem trifling; but they are trifles which strikingly illustrate Bible stories. It is by such incidents that Bible scenes are indelibly impressed on our memories, and the truthfulness of the narratives in God's Word irresistibly forced on our minds. Could stronger evidence be given of the truth and faithfulness of a narrative some three thousand years old, than the witnessing of every little circumstance attending it realized in the ordinary customs of the people now residing on the spot where it was first enacted? Bible story assumes a living character when studied in this land. The localities, the costumes, the manners and customs, are unchanged. The language too, though different, is nearly allied to the Hebrew; and the modes of expression and set forms of salutation are almost identical.

Topography of the plain of BASHAN - Singular features of the Lejah Vast numbers of deserted towns - Buildings of Hît-Their antiquity Inscriptions and dates-Visit to Bathanyeh, Batanæa Ancient houses - Deserted towns- The province of Batanaa identified-Stone doors - Druze horsemanship-Visit to Shuka, the ancient Saccaa-Interesting ruins -- Ancient churches - Errors in map of Berghaus - Position of Săfă- Wady Liwa - Visit to Shuhba

Causes of the Druze war and tyranny of Turkish rulers - Ruins of theatre, temples, &c. - Extinct crater-Identification of sitePrinces of Shehab - Terraced hills-Mourning for the slain in battle-Ancient towns - Ruins of Suleim identified with NeapolisBeautiful mountain scenery - Visit to Kunawât, KENATH - Splendid ruins - A Druze schoolmaster- Character of the BedawînDescription of Kunawât - Historical notices -Date of principal buildings.

February 2nd. - THIS morning dawned beautifully. The sky was unclouded, the mists, which on the previous

day hung around the hills and settled upon the plains, had completely disappeared, and the atmosphere was clear and transparent. Ascending to the roof of the sheikh's house, which commands a view of the whole plain from these mountains to the snow-capped Hermon, I examined with care the features of the country. The district lying between Jebel Haurân on the south-east, and Jebel eshSheikh on the north-west, is one continuous plain, about forty miles in breadth. On its northern side the low barren ridge of Jebel Khiyârah extends nearly ten miles across it. On the south it has no natural boundary, as it runs unbroken far as the eye can reach even from the commanding heights of Sulkhad, on the southern brow of the Jebel Haurân; but we may assume as its border the Wady Zedy, which runs from Busrah in a course nearly north-west, till it joins the Sheriat el-Mandhûr. This district embraces the whole of the plain of Haurán, the whole of the Lejah, with large portions of Jedûr and Jaulân; and these modern provinces respectively correspond pretty nearly with the ancient Auranitis, Trachonitis, Ituræa, and Gaulanitis. The Lejah is the most remarkable of these provinces; and, in a geological point of view, the most wonderful district I have ever seen. I shall have occasion to speak more fully of it, as well as of the others, in the sequel; but I refer to it here to enable the reader to follow me in my description of the physical features of the country. As seen from Hit the Lejah resembles a lake agitated by a strong wind, and any one who has seen Loch Lomond while a winter tempest swept over it, and the troubled waters assumed the gloomy hue of the clouded heavens, may form some idea of the appearance of the Lejah as seen from this place. Its eastern

border is very clearly defined along the side of the Wady Liwa, beyond which stretches out a broad plain, far as the eye can see. The whole plain of the Haurân is diversified by numerous conical tells, which rise up at intervals. There are only two of these tells within the borders of the Lejah-Tell Amâra, beside the village of 'Ahiry, and Tell Sumeid.

and I gladly

While seated on the house-top the sheikh came up, and, on my remarking the extent of this prospect and the large number of towns and villages embraced in it, he volunteered to tell me the names of them all, wrote them down as he enumerated them. The bearings of the most important of these I afterwards had an opportunity of taking with my large compass. While I was thus engaged Mr. Barnett was busy in search of inscriptions; and on finishing my observations I joined him, and we made a hasty survey of the ruins.

The village is about a mile and a half in circumference, and the general character of the architecture is similar to that of Hiyât. There are several square towers like belfries, but the buildings to which they are attached have nothing about them of the nature of ecclesiastical edifices. There is one tower of much superior workmanship to the rest, though of the same dimensions and plan. It stands apart from other buildings, and is evidently a complete structure in itself. In almost every town and village I visited in these mountains I observed one or more similar towers, and my impression is they were intended for tombs. Those I afterwards found at Kunawât have still the sarcophagi in them. The tombs on the hill-sides near Palmyra are of the same character, though in general much larger and more highly ornamented. Many of the