a striking appearance. In front was a paved courtyard, surrounded by a wall, and having a gateway opposite the entrance door. The main door is now choked up with heaps of fallen stones; but a side door, about eight feet high and of proportional width, with fine folding doors of stone, opens into a spacious chamber. From this a narrow winding staircase leads to an open divan, supported in front by an arch, similar to the lewans of the modern Damascus houses. This apartment commands a noble view over the whole country northward and westward to Antilibanus and Hermon. On each side of this divan are large apartments, with windows in front, upwards of six feet high, and having folding shutters of stone, still in their places. Descending from the terrace, to which I had climbed to enjoy the splendid prospect, to the courtyard in front, I observed the following inscription beside one of the windows. There is another beside the great arch of the divan, but I had not time to copy it. The letters of both are beautifully formed :

MANOCOAIMOY

KAIYIOIAYTOYE

AWKANEKTHC

OIKOAOMI ///////^

XYAACXGIA

ACKAITHNEY

PANEY CЄBOYN

EKTOKYPIWN

Mr. Barnett in the mean time copied another from a loose stone beside the gate of the courtyard, on which it is recorded that a certain Proclus, the son of Aumos, dedicated

a monument to the gods in honour of his son Aumos; but there is no date attached to any of these inscriptions, and no name affording any key to their age.

Leaving this interesting ruin, we rode up the hill-side, through fine grain-fields, to Hît, which we reached in half an hour. We were led immediately to the house of Sheikh Ass'ad 'Amer, who received us with every demonstration of respect and welcome, having come out to the gate of his courtyard to meet us. We were ushered into the reception-room, a mean, half-ruinous, and dirty apartment, where a crowd of villagers and others were assembled. The massive stone roof was supported by antique columns, and in the centre of the floor was a square hearth, sunk about six inches below the rough pavement. Here blazed and crackled an immense fire of charcoal. There was no opening or chimney above to let out the volumes of smoke, but in the midst of the blazing mass was a huge bar of iron, which was intended to prevent any deleterious effects from the fumes of the charcoal. Round the hearth stood a formidable array of pots and boilers of various sizes, and they had all the appearance of having been much used and seldom washed, at least externally, as they were covered with a thick crust of ashes, smoke, and coffee-grounds. Whether the internal parts were cleaner than the external I had no means of judging, as coffee, when prepared in the Arab style, has the valuable property of completely hiding all extraneous matter that may find its way into it. It is an undeniable fact, however, that this universal beverage, however it may be manufactured by the Arabs, is not only palatable when served up in the tiny cups, but refreshing and even delicious. Beside the hearth lay a small circular shovel, with a long and massive iron handle

curiously ornamented, while attached to the top of it by a brass chain was an iron spoon. This is the coffee-roaster. Opposite stood the mortar, of black wood, carved with quaint devices and figures, and beside it was the pestle, about two feet long, also finely carved. I had never before seen such a complete coffee-service, and I consequently sketched them roughly in my note-book,

I presented our letter of introduction, and the sheikh, after reading it and seeing coffee properly served, left the In about half an hour he returned, and invited us to another apartment in the harîm, which had been prepared specially for ourselves. Here we found comforts such as we had not anticipated. The floor and divans of the spacious apartment were covered with rich Persian carpets, and cushions of embroidered velvet were arranged against the wall, while three immense mankals of blazing charcoal diffused an agreeable heat through the chamber.

Our kind host, in introducing us to our new quarters, made many apologies for the poor accommodations he offered us; his best furniture, he said, had all been removed to the city during the time of the war, and he had not yet brought it back.

Sheikh Ass'ad 'Amer is a member of the noblest family in the Haurân, and he is, besides, one of the handsomest men I have seen in Syria. His countenance is mild, and the expression of his features very pleasing. A soft voice, and gentle but easy and dignified manners, sufficiently indicated the character we had heard of him-that of a man humane, hospitable, and courteous to all. His appearance had little of the fierce daring that is almost universally pictured in the countenances of his race, but the compressed lip and calm steady eye show that he does not lack the courage and firmness which appear to be inherent in the Druze people. We were afterwards informed that he had taken no part in the late war, and that he had sent all the Christians of Hît and Hiyât to Damascus, to escape the ravages of the soldiers and Arabs. Indeed, one would suppose that the history of his family might afford too fearful proofs of the horrors of war for him again lightly to engage in it. Three of his brothers and four of his nephews were slain in battle, and of these four fell by his side in one day!

Our reception in his house and his attention to us during our short stay were in every way calculated to establish the high name he has obtained for generous and profuse hospitality. Had it not been for his deserved popularity in this respect, combined with the mildness of his rule and his kindness to all under him, he could not

have dared to remain neutral during the war.

Next to

bravery in battle, to be reckoned hospitable is the proudest distinction an Arab chief can obtain. A plentiful repast of honey, dibs, butter, and various kinds of sweetmeats, was served up soon after our entrance, and at sunset a feast was prepared for us which far surpassed anything of the kind I had before seen. A whole sheep, roasted and stuffed with rice, graced the centre; beside it was a huge dish of pillau, some three feet in diameter. Round these were ranged nearly twenty other dishes of various kinds of dainties, including fowls, soups, kibbeh, burghul, and a host of others. Round these again were ranged the thin cakes of bread in little piles, on the top of each of which was placed a wooden spoon, the only instrument used in this primitive land in taking food, and even this is a recent importation. All the dishes were of copper, tinned, and they were placed on a large circular mat in the middle of the floor. The guests squatted round the dainties, each one stretching forward hand or spoon, and helping himself to whatever he preferred. We were first invited to dine, and, having finished, the other guests, with the servants, advanced. Then a portion was set aside on a separate mat for the sheikh; and the members of his household, retainers, and such of the villagers as were present, afterwards fell upon the remainder. Before this third relay the pyramid of rice soon disappeared; the bones of sheep and fowls were stripped of every vestige of flesh; and the soup, burghul, and pillau were thrown into one huge dish and speedily devoured.

But enough of a Druze feast. Even so much I would not have inflicted on my reader, but that it serves to show