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fly in flocks of three or four pair, pursuing the course of the water through all its windings, at about twenty feet above it. Almost every second one of the blythe company descends to the surface of the water with the rapidity of an arrow, and with unerring aim, upon some rash and ill-fated individual of the finny race, which it bears up in triumph, though frequently pursued by its own associates, and sometimes obliged to relinquish the produce of its dexterity to a stronger though less industrious rival.

The country about Leyden seems exceedingly rich and well cultivated; and the peculiar cleanliness and comfort of the farm-houses and cottages must strike every traveller. There is a richness and luxuriance in the vegetation, which I have never seen equalled; and the bright and dazzling glow of the gardens and flower parterres is almost oppressive. In travelling in the treckschuyts early in summer, with a gentle breeze, a person, though deprived of sight, might be sensible of passing the dwellings which adorn the banks of the canal, from the perfumes exhaled by the gardens with which these are surrounded.

"As when to them who sail

Beyond the Cape of Hope, and now are past
Mozambic, off at sea north-east winds blow
Sabean odours from the spicy shore
Of Araby the blest; with such delay
Well pleased, they slack their course, and
many a league,

Cheer'd with the grateful smell, old Ocean

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certainly clean and spacious, and the surrounding country is rich and fertile, and abounds in country seats. At Haarlem I took up my residence at the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw), the name which the house in which I lodged in Leyden likewise bore. My stay in the former was too short to enable me to ascertain its character, but the latter I may recommend to future tourists.

The greater part of my stay in this town was spent in listening to the famous organ, the finest in the world. It is indeed the sovereignest thing on earth," and seems made up of the very soul and essence of musical harmony. The variety of its tones is astonishing; and its power of imitating all instruments, whether single or combined, can neither be conceived by those who have not been in Haarlem, nor described by those who have. The warlike flourish of the trumpet, the clear note of the octave, and the mellow tone of the flute, are heard in beautiful succession, when these appear to swell into a thousand instruments, and the senses are nearly overpowered by the united effect of a most powerful and harmonious military band, which again sinks away in those more gentle and impressive sounds which an organ alone can produce. The organist, whose name is Schumann, played a very fine battle-piece, in which every imaginable sound of joy and sorrow,-fear, courage, misery, and despair,-were combined with the roaring of musketry, the loud and irresistible charge of a thouthundrous sweep of cannon, and the sand horses; and commingled with these, during the dread intervals of comparative silence, were the shouts of the victors, the lamentations of the wounded, and the groans of the dying. clear and terrible a picture of two No painting could have presented so mighty armies advancing in battle array, mingling in the mortal conflict, and converting the face of nature into one universal scene of confusion, dismay, and death. Rarely does music produce an effect upon the mind so permanent as either poetry or painting; but, in my own case, there is, in this instance, an exception to the general rule. I have listened to notes angelical of many a harp," but never were my ears seized with such ravishment as on the evening, I passed

"the

at Haarlem. The organist afterwards took me up to the organ-loft, where I was favoured with a near inspection; but nothing should be too minutely examined. The Rev. Dean of St Patrick asks

Why is a handsome wife ador'd
By every coxcomb but her lord?
Of yonder puppet-man inquire,
Who wisely hides his wood and wire;
Shews Sheba's queen completely dressed,
And Solomon in royal vest.

But what must

bour of Damietta. give most men greater pleasure, is a statue in the public square, erected in honour of Laurence Coster, a native of the town, and one of the church-wardens, said to have been the inventor of the art of printing. He holds in his hand a large type, on which is the letter A ; and on the pedestal is represented a printing-press at work. It is to be feared that the "inaudible and noiseless foot of time," aided by the elements, must gradually undermine and destroy the effigies of the venerable printer; on which account I wish that the vestry at Haarlem could be persuaded to shelter their countryman in the cathedral, were it even to the exclusion of some eminent Dutch divine or cumbersome burgomaster. In a house at no great dis tance, among other curiosities, a book is shown, said to be the first which Coster ever printed.

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But view them litter'd on the floor,
Or strung on pegs behind the door,
Punch is exactly of a piece

With Lorraine's Duke or Prince of Greece.

I thought the appearance of the keys very diminutive, when contrasted with the sublime effect produced by them. There are about 5000 pipes belonging to this organ. The largest is 38 feet long, and 15 inches in diameter.

The environs of this town are adorned with many luxuriant and delightful gardens. Nothing can be more rich than the soil here; and although the flower season is now nearly over, it is easy to see, from what remains, with what a glow of splendour the surface of the country must have been enamelled a few weeks ago. These are Nature's beauties, which, like many artificial ones at home, toil not, neither do they spin; "yet Solomon, in all his glory, was not arrayed like one of these."

It was in the vicinity of Haarlem that the extraordinary tulip mania, so general at one time in Holland, chiefly raged. To such a degree of violence were the inhabitants of this and some other cities affected by it, that the government was obliged at length to interfere, and put an end to such an absurd and ruinous species of commerce, by an official notification. In the year 1657, one hundred and twenty tulips were sold for the sum of 90,000 guilders; and it is mentioned in the Dutch records, that "single tulips have been sold for seven, eight, nine, and even ten thousand guilders, which is more than ten times what any person would have given for the garden in which they grew."

In the Great Church at Haarlem are suspended the models of three or four ships, representing, it seems, those which, in the frenzy of the crusades, had been furnished by this city, and had piously forced their way through much carnage, to the har

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In the neighbourhood of this city there is a fine house, built for the summer residence of Mr Hope, the celebrated merchant of Amsterdam. It is a delightful retreat, finished with white marble, and contains many noble apartments, and a magnificent saloon, full of capital pictures and prints. Passing from one chamber furnished with blue silk, to another adorned with yellow, is pleasing enough at times; but I would, for the most part, during a fine summer evening, when the sun is sinking in all its glory, prefer walking from one green field to another. So I thought on the present occasion; and while the companion of my travels took his fill of vaulted halls smoking with frankincense, and glittering with rosewood and satin, I wandered about the gardens and dewy parterres, watching the beautiful changes of colour in the western sky, and listening to the fine song of the nightingale among the groves, for there

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"The wakeful bird

Sung darkling, and, in shadiest covert hid, Tun'd her nocturnal note."

There are many other pleasant country residences near Haarlem, among which Hartkamp should be mentioned, being more particularly interesting, as having been at one time the abode of Linnæus, and the place where that famous botanist laid the foundation of his immortal system. X. Y. Z. (To be continued.)

SELECT EXTRACTS.

MARITIME DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRAL immense track that had been hitherto

ASIA.

[Extract from the Hobart Town Gazette, and Southern Reporter, May 11, 1816.] We are happy to lay before our readers the following very interesting jour nal of Lieutenant Jeffries, of H. M. armed brig Kangaroo, on her voyage from Port Jackson to Ceylon; which is highly creditable and meritorious to the nautical abilities of Lieutenant Jeffries; and as the publication of a new track, in seas abounding with reefs and shoals in every direction, to the imminent danger of the navigator, must prove of the greatest import and utility to the commercial world, more especially that part of it which enjoys the trade of Australasia and Bengal, besides adding to the general stock of nautical knowledge.

His Majesty armed brig Kangaroo, commanded by Lieutenant Jeffries, sailed from Port Jackson the 19th of April 1815, for the island of Cey lon, for the purpose of conveying to their regiment the various detachments of the 73d that had remained, and who, with their families, amounted to about one hundred persons in number. Intending to make the passage through Torres Straits, Captain Jeffries ran along the coasts as far as Harvey's Bay, which lies in about 2410 S. latitude, when, finding the weather grow thick and unfavourable as he approached Wreck Reef, he formed a resolution to try the passage inside the Great Barrier Reefs, which commence in about 23°, and extend as far as lat. 10° S. Captain Jeffries followed Captain Cook's track along the coast of New Holland, considering it in all respects preferable to the outer passage, in which almost every vessel that has adopted it has fallen in with unknown reefs and shoals. Having observed that officer's track as nearly as was possible, until he reached that part of the coast which lies off Endea vour River, Captain J. was left to his own judgment in running down an

New South Wales. VOL. I.

unexplored. On the 28th of April, at noon, he rounded Breaksea Sprit, Harvey's Bay, and hauled in towards the coast to the westward; passed the Keppel island, and anchored at Point water, as her old stock, which had Bowen, for the purpose of getting fresh been taken on board at Port Jackson during an extremely dry season, had become putrid. The launch, upon her watering expedition, was driven fifteen miles to leeward of Port Bowen, by an unexpected gale of wind, and this accident detained the vessel several days. After leaving Port Bowen, Captain J. continued as nearly as possible in the track of our celebrated but unfortunate countryman, and always ran down in the day-time such parts of the coast as Captain Cook had passed by night, deriving thence an occasion of describing places which, in Captain Cook's unlimited extent of observation, have unavoidably escaped his more minute attention.

Having passed Northumberland and Cumberland Islands, Captain J. made Whitsunday Passage upon Whitsunday, as Captain Cook had previously done in the Endeavour thirty-five years before, from which circumstance the Passage took its name. There is some

thing pleasingly coincident, in the circumstance of two British commanders having upon that particular day anchored in the same remote and unfrequented spot-the knowledge of which brought to recollection the immortal Cook, and filled the mind with reverential awe and sympathy.

communication with the natives, who At Cape Sandwich, Captain J. had were very friendly, and conveyed fruits to the vessel. The men are rather stouter than the natives of this southindustry, or apparent genius, there is ern part of the coast; but in point of scarcely any difference. They have a fruit among them in shape and colour resembling the mangosteen of the east, and in taste the English medlar. By the 28th of May, Captain J. had proceeded as far as Captain Cook's track extended, he having there borne away, from a consideration that the coast be3 R

yond that Strait was an impracticable labyrinth. In the evening Captain J. hove to off Turtle island, intending to examine the coast to the northward before he went outside the reef; and as the inshore passage had never been tried, it was examined with the most minute attention, and found to be all clear as far as the eye could traverse. By so encouraging a prospect, Captain J. was led to determine on the experiment, and more particularly so, from the recollection that whenever Captain Cook stood off he had mostly met with difficulties.

From this day (the 29th) till the 1st of June, Capt. J. continued by day to sail along that unexplored coast, and at night bringing up under the lee of some rock, reef, or shoal, which were numberless. On the night of the 30th of May, Capt. J. anchored under a large group of islands, to which he gave the name of Flinders' Group. Ascending a high mountain at day-light, he examined the coast, and perceived a chain of reefs along it as far as the eye could penetrate. Weighed, and standing along the coast close in shore, arrived at the entrance of an amazingly extensive bay or gulph, at least thirty miles in depth, to which he gave the name of Princess Charlotte Bay. The land about this part of the coast appeared much finer than any other Capt. J. had seen, presenting a fine green, moderately wooded, and bearing a considerable resemblance to the interior of this (Van Diemen's Land) island.

Capt. J. found a safe and clear passage from three to five miles off the shore, and from seven to nine miles appeared a continuation of the reef and sand banks, commencing off Endeavour River, or rather from Cape Grafton, from whence the chain was first discovered.

On the 1st of June, at half past twelve, the vessel fell in suddenly with a dark red-coloured water, which, from the vertical position of the sun, was not perceived until within fifty yards: the helm was instantly put hard at port, and the vessel, going between five and six knots, cleared a coral shoal, which had given the red colour to the water, within the narrow distance of ten yards. This danger was first observed by the captain, who was fortunately at the mast-head with three seamen, employed for the look-out.

Upon examination, the changed colour of the water was found to have been occasioned by a bed of mushroom coral rock, about four feet under water. The latitude of this dangerous rock is 13 deg. 32 min. 5 sec. S. and the longitude, by lunar observation, 143 deg. 47 min. East.

On the 2d, Capt. J. having passed the unexplored part of the coast, fell into Captain Bligh's track in the Bounty's launch, and proceeding along shore, had an opportunity of observing the correctness of the charts; but notwithstanding which, about forty minutes past one P.M. the brig grounded on a sand bank not visible, on which there was only from nine to twelve feet water, with upwards of ten fathoms water within a ship's length to the eastward. Capt. J. sent an anchor out, which unfortunately came home, and rendered it necessary to lighten the ship by starting her water overboard, together with a quantity of luggage. The anchor was again sent out, and fortunately held; and by the exertions of the soldiers and seamen, Capt. J. had the happiness to find his vessel afloat at half-past three the same afternoon; soon after which, came to anchor and examined the damage, which was very trivial and soon set to rights. This shoal lies about two miles and a half west of Bolt Head, the soundings along that part of the coast varying from five to twenty fathoms.

On the 6th, after having run through all the reefs laid down in Capt. Flinder's chart, Capt. J. doubled Cape York, and found it to be an island, and not part of the main land, as heretofore supposed. Here the vessel anchored for the night, and next morning found one of the bower anchors broke, which was attributed to the foulness of the ground, and was the only part where foul ground had been met with. This day (the 7th) passed through Torres' Straits, on the side called Endeavour Straits, and found from three to three and a half fathoms water at about half flood, which soundings continued till within a few miles of Booby Island. Here the vessel anchored for the night, and thence shaped her course for Timor, which she reached the 19th; and having refreshed, sailed again on the 26th for the island of Ceylon, where she anchored in Colom bo roads on the 24th of July.

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We noticed, in our paper of last week, the loss of an infant during this very critical passage, with the exception of which melancholy occurrence, Capt. J. had the happiness to land the detachment, with their families, in a state of health, which, from the variety of climates and changes of atmosphere passed through, could not have been hoped for.

Capt. J. recommends to commanders of vessels going to India by the way of Torres Straits, to keep the land close aboard from their leaving Port Jackson or Van Diemen's Land, anchoring at night, as occasion may direct, when they get among the reefs. A continued chain of sand banks and shoals extends from Cape Grafton, which is in lat. 17 deg. S. to Cape York, which is in lat. 10 deg. 30 min. with numerous narrow passages no more than a mile wide from four to fourteen miles off shore. This passage, Capt. J. observes, is perfectly safe to ships of moderate draught of water, with the exception of the two dangers which he hitherto encountered.

By his Majesty's armed brig Kangaroo, the colony received an increase of inhabitants, by forty male and sixty female convicts; but as the male convicts were the very worst of characters, selected from the goal gang of Sidney, they had scarcely been twelve hours on shore before several of them were committed to goal for depredations.

The resources of the Isle of Van Diemen are daily developing; two harbours, by the bold and enterprising perseverance of an individual in a whale-boat, have been discovered on the bleak and western shore of the isle. The southernmost of those harbours, named Port Davey, is of the utmost importance to the navigator, as it lies about nine miles to the northward of South-West Cape, and is a most excellent harbour, divided into two arms extending some miles into the country. On the shores of this harbour are great quantities of the timber named Huon Pine-the superior value of this wood for every purpose of joiners' and cabinet work, from the closeness, regularity, and beauty of its grain, is generally acknowledged-it will also be eminently serviceable in building boats, especially whaleboats, from its lightness, buoyancy, and indestructibility from worms,

it thus becomes a valuable article to

the architect, boat-builder, and merchant.

To the northward of Port Davey, in lat. 48 deg. 10 min. S. and lon. 145 deg. 30 min. E. is another harbour, named Macquarie Harbour, of very considerable extent, into which a river, that runs a considerable distance through the country, disembogues itself. Unfortunately, at a small distance from the mouth of the harbour, or rather at the harbour's mouth, is a bar that extends across its entrance, having no more than nine feet water over it, which will for ever render it impossible to be navigated but by very small craft. As Mr M'Carty is just returned from thence with a cargo of Huon wood, he has favoured us with the following description of the harbour :

"Mr PRINTER,-To gratify my own discovered on the west coast of Van Diemind respecting the harbour and river lately men's Land, known by the names of Macquarie Harbour and Gordon River, I for the second time sailed in my brig (the Sophia) for that harbour. On the fifth day, we came to anchor outside of the bar in seven fathom water, to wait for the tide, as

the current runs at the rate of six and seven

knots an hour, and there not being more than one and a half fathom water over the

bar. Captain Feen, conceiving he could make out a channel, kept the starboard shore on board close in shore. The soundings, after passing the bar, were seven fathoms, then ten, and regularly decreasing to two fathoms at the distance of twenty miles from the bar, where we were obliged proceed further. From the entrance of the to bring up, not having sufficient water to

harbour we encountered shoals for the first ten miles, having a very narrow channel between them. We then continued our course up the harbour in a whale-boat. Having advanced about two miles farther, we found, on the northern shore, a quantity of coal. The first we observed was on the beach, and washed by the salt water-an immense bed, but how deep we could not ascertain. On further inspection, we found the bank from the river was nearly all coal, in strata of six feet thick, then a few feet strata of clay, and then coal again. We much lamented the impossibility of proceeding with the brig to this place. On the following day, we continued our course up the harbour to the entrance of Gordon River: we computed the distance from the mouth of the harbour to Gordon River to be about fifty miles. Pursuing our course up the river, we arrived at the First Falls (similar to the Falls of Derwent), and which we considered to be fifty miles further inland, though, as we supposed, the western moun

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