Page images

fly in flocks of three or four pair, pure certainly clean and spacious, and the suing the course of the water through surrounding country is rich and ferall its windings, at about twenty feet tile, and abounds in country seats. above it. Almost every second one of At Haarlem I took up my residence the blythe company descends to the at the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw), surface of the water with the rapidity the name which the house in which I of an arrow, and with unerring aim, lodged in Leyden likewise bore. My upon some rash and ill-fated individual stay in the former was too short to of the finny race, which it bears up in enable me to ascertain its character, triumph, though frequently pursued but the latter I may recommend to by its own associates, and sometimes future tourists. obliged to relinquish the produce of The greater part of my stay in this its dexterity to a stronger though less town was spent in listening to the faindustrious rival.

mous organ, the finest in the world. The country about Leyden seems It is indeed “ the sovereignest thing exceedingly rich and well cultivated ; on earth," and seems made up of the and the peculiar cleanliness and com very soul and essence of musical harfort of the farm-houses and cottages mony. The variety of its tones is asa must strike every traveller. There is tonishing; and its power of imitating a richness and luxuriance in the vege- all instruments, whether single or tation, which I have never seen equal- combined, can neither be conceived led; and the bright and dazzling glow by those who have not been in Haarof the gardens and flower parterres lem, nor described by those who have. is almost oppressive. In travelling The warlike flourish of the trumpet, in the treckschuyts early in summer, the clear note of the octave, and the with a gentle breeze, a person, though mellow tone of the flute, are heard in deprived of sight, might be sensible beautiful succession, when these apof passing the dwellings which adorn pear to swell into a thousand instruthe banks of the canal, from the per- ments, and the senses are nearly overfumes exhaled by the gardens with powered by the united effect of a most which these are surrounded.

powerful and harmonious military

band, which again sinks away in those " As when to them who sail Beyond the Cape of Hope, and now are past which an organ alone can produce.

more gentle and impressive sounds Mozambic, off at sea north-east winds blow The organist, whose name is SchuSabean odours from the spicy shore Of Araby the blest ; with such delay

mann, played a very fine battle-piece, Well pleased, they slack their course, and

in which every imaginable sound of many a league,

joy and sorrow,-fear, courage, miCheer'd with the grateful smell, old Ocean sery, and despair,- were combined smiles.”

with the roaring of musketry, the These odoriferous airs, indeed, both loud and irresistible charge of a thou

thundrous sweep of cannon, and the surprised and delighted me, as I had sand horses; and commingled with usually associated very different ideas with the stagnant swamps of Holland. these, during the dread intervals of

comparative silence, were the shouts As the richness of the gardens, how

of the victors, the lamentations of the ever, is frequently derived from the wounded, and the groans of the dying. less Sabean soil of the marsh, the same cause seems capable of producing very clear and terrible a picture of two

No painting could have presented so different effects; but the winds

mighty armies advancing in battle ar“Whisper not whence they stole those ray, mingling in the mortal conflict, balmy spoils ;"

and converting the face of nature into at least they are, for the most part,

one universal scene of confusion, disfortunately silent in regard to the may, and death. Rarely does music prime cause.

produce an effect upon the mind so permanent as either poetry or paint

ing; but, in my own case, there is, in Haarlem.

this instance, an exception to the geI LEFT Leyden with regret, and pur- neral rule. I have listened to “ the sued my journey to Haarlem by the notes angelical of many a harp,” but treckschuyt. The canal between the never were my ears seized with such two towns is thought very fine. It is ravishment as on the evening, I passed

to this organ:

at Haarlem. The organist afterwards bour of Damietta. But what must took me up to the organ-loft, where I give most men greater pleasure, is a was favoured with a near inspection; statue in the public square, erected but nothing should be too minutely in honour of Laurence Coster, a naexamined. The Rev. Dean of St Pa tive of the town, and one of the trick asks

church-wardens, said to have been the Why is a handsome wife ador'd

inventor of the art of printing. He By every coxcomb but her lord ?

holds in his hand a large type, on Of yonder puppet-man inquire,

which is the letter A ; and on the peWho wisely hides his wood and wire ;

destal is represented a printing-press Shews Sheba's queen completely dressed, at work. It is to be feared that the And Solomon in royal vest.

“ inaudible and noiseless foot of time," But view them litter'd on the floor,

aided by the elements, must gradually Or strung on pegs behind the door, Punch is exactly of a piece

undermine and destroy the effigies of With Lorraine's Duke or Prince of Greece.

the venerable printer; on which ac

count I wish that the vestry at HaarI thought the appearance of the keys lem could be persuaded to shelter their very diminutive, when contrasted with countryman in the cathedral, were it the sublime effect produced by them. even to the exclusion of some eminent There are about 6000 pipes belonging Dutch divine or cumbersome burgo

The largest is 38 feet master. In a house at no great disa long, and 15 inches in diameter.

tance, among other curiosities, à book The environs of this town are a is shown, said to be the first which dorned with many luxuriant and de- Coster ever printed. lightful gardens. Nothing can be In the neighbourhood of this city more rich than the soil here; and al- there is a fine house, built for the though the flower season is now near summer residence of Mr Hope, the ly over, it is easy to see, from what celebrated merchant of Amsterdam. remains, with what a glow of splen. It is a delightful retreat, finished with dour the surface of the country must white marble, and contains many nohave been enamelled a few weeks ago. ble apartments, and a magnificent saThese are Nature's beauties, which, loon, full of capital pictures and prints. like many artificial ones at home, toil Passing from one chamber furnished not, neither do they spin ; “yet Solo, with blue silk, to another adorned mon, in all his glory, was not arrayed with yellow, is pleasing enough at like one of these.”

times; but I would, for the most part, It was in the vicinity of Haarlem during a fine summer evening, when that the extraordinary tulip mania, so the sun is sinking in all its glory, pregeneral at one time in Holland, chiefly fer walking from one green field to raged. To such a degree of violence another. So I thought on the present were the inhabitants of this and some occasion; and while the companion of other cities affected by it, that the go- my travels took his fill of vaulted halls vernment was obliged at length to in- smoking with frankincense, and glite terfere, and put an end to such an ab- tering with rosewood and satin, I wansurd and ruinous species of commerce, dered about the gardens and dewy by an official notification. In the year parterres, watching the beautiful 1657, one hundred and twenty tulips changes of colour in the western sky, were sold for the sum of 90,000 guil- and listening to the fine song of the ders; and it is mentioned in the Dutch nightingale among the groves, for records, that “ single tulips have been there sold for seven, eight, nine, and even

« The wakeful bird ten thousand guilders, which is more Sung darkling, and, in shadiest covert hid, than ten times what any person would Tun'd her nocturnal note.” have given for the garden in which There are many other pleasant counthey grew."

try residences near Haarlem, among In the Great Church at Haarlem which Hartkamp should be mentionare suspended the models of three or ed, being more particularly interesting, four ships, representing, it seems, as having been at one time the abode those which, in the frenzy of the of Linnæus, and the place where that crusades, had been furnished by this famous botanist laid the foundation city, and had piously forced their way of his immortal system. X. Y. Z. through much carnage, to the har

(To be continued.)


MARITIME DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRAL immense track that had been hitherto ASIA.

unexplored. On the 28th of April, at

noon, he rounded Breaksea Sprit, Har[Extract from the Hobart Town* Gazette, vey's Bay, and hauled in towards the

and Southern Reporter, May 11, 1816.] coast to the westward; passed the We are happy to lay before our read- Bowen, for the purpose of getting fresh

Keppel island, and anchored at Point ers the following very interesting jour, water, as her old stock, which had nal of Lieutenant Jeffries, of H. M. been taken on board at Port Jackson armed brig Kangaroo, on her voyage during an extremely dry season, had from Port Jackson to Ceylon ; which

become putrid.

The launch, upon is highly creditable and meritorious to her watering expedition, was driven the nautical abilities of Lieutenant Jef- fifteen miles to leeward of Port Bowen, fries; and as the publication of a new by an unexpected gale of wind, and track, in seas abounding with reefs and this

accident detained the vessel seveshoals in every direction, to the immi. ral days. After leaving Port Bowen, nent danger of the navigator, must Captain J. continued as nearly as posprove of the greatest import and utili- sible in the track of our celebrated but ty to the commercial world, more es

unfortunate countryman, and always pecially that part of it which enjoys ran down in the day-time such parts the trade of Australasia and Bengal, of the coast as Captain Cook had passbesides adding to the general stock of ed by night, deriving thence an occanautical knowledge.

sion of describing places which, in CapHis Majesty armed brig Kangaroo, tain Cook's unlimited extent of obsercommanded by Lieutenant Jeffries, vation, have unavoidably escaped his sailed from Port Jackson the 19th

more minute attention. of April 1815, for the island of Cey

Having passed Northumberland and lon, for the purpose of conveying to Cumberland Islands, Captain J. made theirregiment the various detachments Whitsunday Passage upon Whitsunof the73d that had remained, and day, as Captain Cook had previously who, with their families, amounted to done in the Endeavour thirty-five years about one hundred persons in number. before, from which circumstance the Intending to make the passage through Passage took its name. There is someTorres Straits, Captain Jeffries ran thing pleasingly coincident, in the ciralong the coasts as far as Harvey's Bay, cumstance of two British commanders which lies in about 240 s. latitude, having upon that particular day anwhen, finding the weather grow thick chored in the same remote and unfreand unfavourable as he approached quented spot-the knowledge of which Wreck Reef, he formed a resolution Þrought to recollection the immortal to try the passage inside the Great Cook, and filled the mind with reveBarrier Reefs, which commence in rential awe and sympathy. about 23°, and extend as far as lat.

At Cape Sandwich, Captain J. had 10° S. Captain Jeffries followed Cap- communication with the natives, who tain Cook's track along the coast of

were very friendly, and conveyed fruits New Holland, considering it in all to the vessel. The men are rather respects preferable to the outer pas- stouter than the natives of this southsage, in which almost every vessel that

ern part of the coast ; but in point of has adopted it has fallen in with un

industry, or apparent genius, there is known reefs and shoals. Having ob- scarcely any difference. They have a served that officer's track as nearly as fruit among them in shape and colour was possible, until he reached that resembling the mangosteen of the east, part of the coast which lies off Endea- and in taste the English medlar. By vour River, Captain was left to his the 28th of May, Captain J. had proown judgment in running down an ceeded as far as Captain Cook's track

extended, he having there borne away, * New South Wales.

from a consideration that the coast beVol. I.

3 R

yond that Strait was an impracticable Upon examination, the changed colour labyrinth. In the evening Captain J. of the water was found to have been hove to off Turtle island, intending to occasioned by a bed of mushroom coral examine the coast to the northward rock, about four feet under water. The before he went outside the reef ; and latitude of this dangerous rock is 13 as the inshore passage had never been deg. 32 min. 5 sec. Š. and the longitried, it was examined with the most tude, by lunar observation, 143 deg. minute attention, and found to be all 47 min. East. clear as far as the eye could traverse. On the 2d, Capt. J. having passed By so encouraging a prospect, Captain the unexplored part of the coast, fell J. was led to determine on the expe- into Captain Bligh's track in the Bounriment, and more particularly so, from ty's launch, and proceeding along shore, the recollection that whenever Captain had an opportunity of observing the Cook stood off he had mostly met with correctness of the charts; but notwithdifficulties.

standing which, about forty minutes From this day (the 29th) till the past one P.M. the brig grounded on a 1st of June, Capt. J. continued by day sand bank not visible, on which there to sail along that unexplored coast, was only from nine to twelve feet and at night bringing up under the water, with upwards of ten fathoms lee of some rock, reef, or shoal, which water within a ship's length to the were numberless. On the night of eastward. Capt. J. sent an anchor the 30th of May, Capt. J. anchored out, which unfortunately came home, under a large group of islands, to and rendered it necessary to lighten which he gave the name of Flinders' the ship by starting her water overGroup. Ascending a high mountain board, together with a quantity of at day-light, he examined the coast, luggage. The anchor was again sent and perceived a chain of reefs along it out, and fortunately held; and by the as far as the eye could penetrate. exertions of the soldiers and seamen, Weighed, and standing along the coast Capt. J. had the happiness to find his close in shore, arrived at the entrance vessel afloat at half-past three the same of an amazingly extensive bayorgulph, afternoon; soon after which, came to at least thirty miles in depth, to which anchor and examined the damage, he

gave the name of Princess Charlotte which was very trivial and soon set Buy. The land about this part of the to rights. This shoal lies about two coast appeared much finer than any miles and a half west of Bolt Head, other Capt. J. had seen, presenting a the soundings along that part of the fine green, moderately wooded, and coast varying from five to twenty fabearing a considerable resemblance to thoms. the interior of this (Van Diemen's On the 6th, after having run through Land) island.

all the reefs laid down in Capt. FlinCapt. J. found a safe and clear pass- der's chart, Capt. J. doubled Cape age from three to five miles off the York, and found it to be an island, shore, and from seven to nine miles and not part of the main land, as appeared a continuation of the reef and heretofore supposed. Here the vessel sand banks, commencing off Endeavour anchored for the night, and next mornRiver, or rather from Cape Grafton, ing found one of the bower anchors from whence the chain was first dis- broke, which was attributed to the covered.

foulness of the ground, and was the On the 1st of June, at half past only part where foul ground had been twelve, the vessel fell in suddenly with met with. This day (the 7th) passed a dark red-coloured water, which, from through Torres' Straits, on the sidecall-, the vertical position of the sun, was ed Endeavour Straits, and found from not perceived until within fifty yards: three to three and a half fathoms wathe helm was instantly put hard at ter at about half flood, which sound port, and the vessel, going between five ings continued till within a few miles and six knots, cleared a coral shoal, of Booby Island. Here the vessel anwhich had given the red colour to the chored for the night, and thence shaped water, within the narrow distance of her course for Timor, which she reachten yards. This danger was first ob- ed the 19th; and having refreshed, sailserved by the captain, who was fortu- ed again on the 26th for the island of nately at the mast-head with three Ceylon, where she anchored in Colomseamen, employed for the look-out. bo roads on the 24th of July.

We noticed, in our paper of last the architect, boat-builder, and mer. week, the loss of an infant during this chant. very critical passage, with the excep

To the northward of Port Davey, tion of which melancholy occurrence, in lat. 48 deg. 10 min. S. and lon. 145 Capt. J. had the happiness to land the deg. 80 min. E. is another harbour, detachment, with their families, in a named Macquarie Harbour, of very state of health, which, from the va- considerable extent, into which a riva riety of climates and changes of at er, that runs a considerable distance mosphere passed through, could not through the country, disembogues ithave been hoped for.

self. Unfortunately, at a small disCapt. J. recommends to command- tance from the mouth of the harbour, ers of vessels going to India by the or rather at the harbour's mouth, is a way of Torres' Straits, to keep the bar that extends across its entrance, land close aboard from their leaving having no more than nine feet water Port Jackson or Van Diemen's Land, over it, which will for ever render it anchoring at night, as occasion may impossible to be navigated but by direct, when they get among the reefs. very small craft. As Mr M'Carty is A continued chain of sand banks and just returned from thence with a cargo shoals extends from Cape Grafton, of Huon wood, he has favoured us which is in lat. 17 deg. s. to Cape with the following description of the York, which is in lat. 10 deg. 30 min. harbour :with numerous narrow passages no more than a mile wide from four to mind respecting the harbour and river lately

- Mr PRINTER,–To gratify my own fourteen miles off shore. This pass- discovered on the west coast of Van Dieage, Capt. J. observes, is perfectly safe men's Land, known by the names of Macto ships of moderate draught of water, quarie Harbour and Gordon River, I for with the exception of the two dangers the second time sailed in my brig (the Sowhich he hitherto encountered. phia) for that harbour. On the fifth day,

By his Majesty's armed brig Kane we came to anchor outside of the bar in garoo, the colony received an increase seven fathom water, to wait for the tide, as of inhabitants, by forty male and sixty the current runs at the rate of six and seven female convicts; but as the male con

knots an hour, and there not being more

than one and a half fathom water over the victs were the very worst of characters, bar.

Captain Feen, conceiving he could selected from the goal gang of Sidney, make out a channel, kept the starboard they had scarcely been twelve hours shore on board close in shore. The soundon shore before several of them were ings, after passing the bar, were seven facommitted to goal for depredations. thoms, then ten, and regularly decreasing

The resources of the Isle of Van to two fathoms at the distance of twenty Diemen are daily developing; two miles from the bar, where we were obliged harbours, by the bold and enterpris- proceed further. From the entrance of the

to bring up, not having sufficient water to ing perseverance of an individual in harbour we encountered shoals for the first a whale-boat, have been discovered on

ten miles, having a very narrow channel bethe bleak and western shore of the isle.

tween them. We then continued our course The southernmost of those harbours, up the harbour in a whale-boat. Having named Port Davey, is of the utmost advanced about two miles farther, we found, importance to the navigator, as it lies on the northern shore, a quantity of coal. about nine miles to the northward of The first we observed was on the beach, South-West Cape, and is a most ex

and washed by the salt water-an immense cellent harbour, divided into two arms

bed, but how deep we could not ascertain.

On further inspection, we found the bank extending some miles into the coun

from the river was nearly all coal, in strata try.-On the shores of this harbour of six feet thick, then a few feet strata of are great quantities of the timber clay, and then coal again. We much lanamed Huon Pine--the superior value mented the impossibility of proceeding with of this wood for every purpose of join the brig to this place. On the following ers' and cabinet work, from the close- day, we continued our course up the har. ness, regularity, and beauty of its bour to the entrance of Gordon River: we grain, is generally acknowledged-it computed the distance from the mouth of will also be eminently serviceable the harbour to Gordon River to be about

fifty miles. Pursuing our course up the in building boats, especially whale- river, we arrived at the First Falls (similar boats, from its lightness, buoyancy, to the Falls of Derwent), and which we and indestructibility from worms, considered to be fifty miles further inland, it thus becomes a valuable article to though, as we supposed, the western moun

« PreviousContinue »