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across

Thus, the comparative strength of If he proceeds farther east, he has these waters are ascertained.

the view of Lochleven, and of the case Cromlix possesses many advantages tle where the unfortunate Mary Queen: for the convenience and amusement of of Scots was confined. those who may resort to reap benefit I think, Mr Editor, we have made from its mineral waters. The town of a very pretty trip. Allow me to conDunblane (formerly a Bishop's See,) duct you back to the Caldron Lin, and where visitors can be comfortably ac to request of you to record in your commodated with lodgings, is in its Magazine one of the most providential immediate vicinity. Through it daily escapes from immediate death that has passes a coach to and from Glasgow happened in the memory of man. and Perth, and it has a daily post. The detail is strictly true—is known The soil is gravelly, and therefore after to hundreds - but others who may view a fall of rain no way inconvenient to these terrific falls will scarcely credit pedestrians. The river Allan affords it in after times. sport to the angler,--and the surround In the month of September 1805, ing country abounds with game. J. H, Esq. (for he has inter

If the visitor finds it convenient to dicted me from giving his name) conintermit his libations at the spring, he ducted his friend, the late David Siba may amuse himself with examining bald, Esq. of Abden, W.S. to view the some most interesting remains of a Ro- grand scenery upon this part of the man camp at Ardoch, within two or Devon. The schoolmaster of the parish three miles. If he bends his course to of Muckart, Mr Black, accompanied the west, he is within five miles of the them. A short way above the first remarkable improvements on Blair- caldron are stepping stones Drummond Moss, and of the ingenious the river. By these Mr H., perhaps wheel constructed by Lord Kames for too adventurously, attempted to pass. raising water to clear away that moss. One heel getting entangled with the Proceeding still farther in the same other, by his spurs locking, he was direction, he views the stately ruins of precipitated into the river, and by the Doune Castle ; and a few miles farther current carried headlong down into on, beyond Callander, he is enraptured the first caldron, a fall of at least thirty with the beautiful scenery of Loch feet. Fortunately for him, an overCatrine, of which the immortal Scott flowing of the river had recently has sung. He may cross Monteith, and brought down a considerable quantity will soon reach the banks of Lochlo- of sand and gravel, which, by the acmond, or, from the top of the lofty Ben, tion of the water, had been heaped up view at once both sides of our island. on the south side of the cylindrical Again, if he proceeds to Stirling, he cavity. After having been tossed about can, from its ancient castle, survey a for some time in this horrible, vortex, finer and more extensive landscape Providence stretched forth his hand than painter ever delineated or fancy and placed him upon this heap, where ever pictured. If from thence he pro- he found himself standing in water up ceeds to Carron works, he will reap to the breast, just beyond the reach of much gratification from contemplating the immense foaming torrent. With the largest iron manufactory in Eu a canopy of rock over his head, surrope.

mounted by a precipitous bank coverIf from Dunblane he makes an ex ed with wood, --in all a height of fifty cursion by the south of the Ochil feet from where he stood, did he rea Hills, he reaches the romantic scenery main for the space of forty minutes. of Castle Campbell. A little farther He has told me, awful as his situation on, he arrives at the falls of the River was, that hope never forsook him. Devon, the Caldron Lin, the Rumbling His agonized friend and attendant, Bridge, and the Devil's Mill, all who had been looking for his lifeless minutely described by Pennant and by body in the dreadful abysses below in every Scottish tourist. And here Í vain, again returned, and at length may remark, that if the Carron Cer- discovered him. Ropes were speedily berus has hounded him from his pore procured from a neighbouring farmtals, he will have a welcome reception house. By this time the gravel on at the Devon iron foundry, which is which he stood had so much receded carried on on the estate of Lord Manse that the water was up to his chin. field, near Alva.

The ropes were lowered, but fell short

SKETCHES OF FOREIGN SCENERY AND

MANNERS.

He ea

of his reach-an addition was procured, but, from the situation in which he stood, it was necessary to give the

No III. rope a pendulous motion. gerly snatched the end with a death

Leyden. grasp, and immediately swung by it. Leyden is a delightful city, and in Those above, by the sudden jerk, were appearance the healthiest town I have nearlyprecipitated into the gulph. Yet, seen in Holland. The broad street (I alas ! he had still another difficulty to have already forgotten the Dutch encounter, for near the brow of the name, though I have given the Engprecipice the elbow of a cruel seedling lish signification) in which I took up ash interposed itself between his arms my residence, is the principal one, and, and head. Self-preservation, however, if straight, would be very fine ; it is gave nerve to this last effort, and let pretty broad, of great length, and reting go one hand, he extricated him, markably clean. In it is situated the self, and was safely landed on the pre- Stadhouse (Town-house), a strange cipitous bank.

building, which seems to combine sea Let the traveller, Mr Editor, view veral orders of architecture, without the Caldron Lin, and believe my detail exemplifying any ; a circumstance if he can. I will forgive him for being which is pretty common in most parts sceptic. I am, it is true, anonymous of the world. I went through this to all but to yourself, but he will find house with the hope of seeing some the testimony, not only of the worthy good pictures, but in this I was disdominie of Muckart, but of all the appointed. There are, however, a country around, to corroborate it. few paintings worthy of inspection.

I shall not attempt, in any language The portraits, by Jan Schouten, of of mine, to describe those terrific cal- the Captains and other officers who drons, but shall finish with an excerpt served in the train-bands during the from a poem of the late George Wal- famous siege of Leyden, are good; lace, Esq. advocate, descriptive of these also, some parts of the Execution of linns.*

the Sons of Brutus, by Carl de Moor. “ For see, the river breaks its bands,

There are some fine expressions of the And rapid darts its rocky bed along

dreadful misery of a besieged city, and A narrow stream, and wreathed and through of the horrors of famine, in the relief

of Leyden, by Hendrie Van Veen. In dreadful fury, boisterous bursts its way The Crucifixion, and Taking from the Resistless, terrible he thunders down Cross, by C. V. Engelbrecht, is palPrecipitous, and swelled, a second height, try, stiff, and unnatural; and the Last Abrupter, broader, higher than the first. Two slender trees grew wild above the linn, Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden, is Their roots half fix'd in earth and half in vulgar in the extreme. I remember,

before leaving Germany, of having My doubtful stand I took between their been informed, that a celebrated painte trunks.

ing of the Judgment, by Huygens, -My flesh

was preserved here; but I suppose it Grew cold-I feel it yet: the torrent pours! was seized by the rapacity of the I hear it roar! Its wrathful shrieks! and French, who have probably forgotten dash

to return it; at least, I could learn noIn rage its foaming waters 'gainst therocks!”

thing concerning it in Leyden. But to return, Mr Editor, to my This is one of the most classical of outset, I would seriously advise you, modern cities, and truly interesting, after you

have got your July, or per from the number of great men who haps August, impression of your Mag have been born or educated within its azine thrown off, to visit the CROMLIX walls. Its university is the most ana spring; and as an inducement, I may cient in Holland, and famous, as well tell you, as you are a man of books, for the many illustrious characters who there is a most valuable library at at different periods have filled its chairs Dunblane, which was originally found with so much honour and ability, as ed: by Bishop Leighton, access to from the peculiar circumstances under which you and others can have. I am which it originated. The Prince of yours,

STRILA. Orange, being duly impressed with the

unequalled gallantry displayed by the Prospects from Hills in Fife. inhabitants during the great siege by

the gate

air ;

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the Spaniards in 1574, and desirous of renown of its ancient name may again manifesting his gratitude for the im- attract the youth of Europe to its clasportant services which their example sic ground, and if the professors are ħad conferred on the cause of liberty, men of talent and judgment, I know and as a reward for their individual not any place more fitted for a calm valour, proposed to the inhabitants of and placid, yet enthusiastic turn of the town, the choice of their exemp- mind, a state, of all others the most tion from the payment of certain taxes, favourable to intellectual improve or the foundation of a university. Not- ment; and while, at the same time, withstanding the impoverished state to the shady groves of the suburbs, and which they must necessarily have been the academic appearance of the streets, reduced in consequence of such a se would induce vigour of constitution vere and long protracted siege, they and cheerfulness of temper, the rewisely and nobly preferred the latter; membrance of what had been achieve and thus, in the hour of poverty and ed by others, and that, too, under affliction, established the rudiments of the most unfavourable circumstances, an institution, with the fame of which, would animate the mind, and inspire ere long, “ all Europe rung."

even the least sanguine, with the hope. In the course of my peregrinations, of one day reaping the good fruits of I formed an acquaintance with a book- learning and research. seller of considerable intelligence (rara I went to the library, where I found avis), whose name I forget. He is lib my newly-acquired friend true to his rarian to the university, and curator of appointment. He shewed me many its valuable Greek and Latin and Orien. old books worthy of attention, and tal manuscripts, and obligingly offered sundry manuscripts of exceeding beaume an inspection of every object of ty, great age, and exquisite perfection. curiosity under his charge. Having A manuscript copy of the Iliad, writagreed to meet him at the library, ten on vellum, and richly illuminated, which is contained in a building apart deserves inspection; also, an illumia from the college, I stept in for a moment nated copy of Virgil on the same mato look at the lecture rooms. There I terial. Divers MSS. of Dutchmen found every thing dark, gloomy, and with long names, of great celebrity, of forlorn-an air of desertion and fad- whom I had never before heard a syled splendour wan," pervaded the whole lable were shewn me; and many interior of the building. The profese books with the annotations of Scaliger, sors? chairs are large and heavy, with and a MS. holograph of that author, huge canopies, like the pulpits in some besides very many others, each worthy old churches; and the seats of the of a volume. sadly diminished students are huddled I must never cease to remember the together at the foot of them, as if with ingenious and valuable present of the the intention of keeping alive, by con- late king, Louis Bonaparte, to the colcentration, the few sparks of animation lection of the library. It is the work and intellectual life which still exist. of a German, and consists of 135 yolThe whole aspect of things presented umes, formed of wood. The binding a most sad and striking contrast be of each book is formed of a different tween the present state and that of the tree; the back is ornamented with olden time. Who could have suppos- pieces of the bark, and such mosses, ed that those still and dreary abodes, lichens, and other parasitical plants, as where even the glimmerings of philo- characterise the species. Each volume sophy were scarcely discernible, were opens, as it were, in the centre of the at one period the very head and front leaves, and contains the bud, leaves, of learning, and the resort of many of flower, fruit, farina, and every other the brightest luminaries in the annals part in any degree illustrative of the of science? Where was the light which nature of the tree. It affords a comhere descended on the Swedish Sage? plete and scientific exemplification of where the glory of the renowned 135 trees, beginning with the oaks, Boerhaave? The ashes of the latter and ending with the juniper; and, in were beneath our feet, but his spirit fact, may be considered as a brief and seemed fled for ever.

perfect epitome of the German groves I am told the number of students and forests. In the case of plants, is very limited ; should the olive such as the rose and juniper, the ligcontinue to flourish on the earth, the neous parts of which are not suffi

ever seen.

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ciently large for the purposes required, earliest and most suceessful cultivators the binding is formed of some ordi- of that science, after the revival of nary wood, sprinkled over with fine learning in Europe. There are also a moss, and then elegantly barred with number of fine hot-house plants, and the rose or juniper wood, giving the a good collection of the indigenous volume the appearance of a valuable plants of Holland, with a beautiful old manuscript with iron clasps. On specimen of an Indian water lily, the whole, it is one of the most inge- which seems to bear a striking resemnious and complete productions I have blance to that which occurs so frem

quently in the canals of the country. My friend the librarian was, I found; In a room adjoining the hot-houses one of the chief causes of the most va- there is a cabinet of antiques, in which luable manuscripts in the collection the remnants of some ancient statues not being transferred to Paris. He are well worthy of inspection. Most was continued in office during the ads of these are in a very imperfect and ministration of the French ; and being mutilated state; and such as have been naturally inimical to that nation, he repaired by modern artists, mournfully endeavoured, by every device in his illustrate the decline of the noble art. power, to elude their rapacity, and to I never saw an ancient Greek or Roa prevent the manuscripts from being man statue, to which a head or limb seen by the Savans who visited Ley- had been added by the ingenuity of den.

the present times, which did not apOne professor was appointed by pear to be labouring under a severe Bonaparte, and took up his residence attack, either of rheumatism or gout, in the city, with the avowed and ex. A worthy gardener, who was the only press purpose of procuring whatever person with whom I conversed during was rare or curious, for the adornment this part of my ramble, seemed grieva of the capital of the Great Nation. ously afflicted with the apathy which, The keys were frequently demanded he said, had affected the curators of from our friend, for the purposes of the collection. He admitted that some investigation ; and the demand was as of the statues had been much improved, often eluded by him, under the pre- but could not comprehend why the tence of their being in the charge of proposal of a French worker in plaster some professor or other, who was of Paris should have been rejected, either confined by sickness, or under who offered not only to repair those the necessity of residing a few days in which were incomplete, but even to the country: In this manner the furnish new and entire figures, in the matter was fortunately delayed, until place of such as might be deemed too the great and unexpected revolution much decayed to admit of being eftook place, which rendered such pre- fectually mended. cautions unnecessary; and the chief I found a description of this collecactor in the scheme, who seemeth tion in a bookseller's shop, by Oudenpassionately fond of the black letter, dorp. It was bequeathed to the unihas happily survived to enjoy the fruits versity in 1745, by Gerard van Papena of his resolute and praiseworthy con- broeck. duct.

The shades of night were now raI then journeyed unto the gardens pidly descending, and the storks, which of the university, where I knew there had nestled on the top of an old conwere several things worthy of note. servatory, were clamorous for my deBy this time, however,

parture. I therefore bade adieu to “ Twilight gray

my friend the gardener, who civilly Had in her sober livery all things clad,”

thanked me fof my visit, and hoped,

that when I returned I should find so that I could not indulge in a very matters in rather better order. I of minute inspection.

however, course heartily joined in his wish, that enough to interest me. There are the “relics of almighty Rome” might many beautiful specimens of rare fo- all be whitewashed before the ensuing reign trees and shrubs ; particularly a tree planted by the hands of Boerhaave, Next morning I visited the theatre and a majestic palm, which existed in of anatomy, where there seems to be the time of Clusius, the first professor a good collection of subjects of every of botaný at Leyden, and one of the kind. The monstrous foetuses seemed

I saw,

summer.

particularly abundant, and no doubt town, and produced the utmost.havoc very valuable. I observed a fine skea and consternation. My servant told leton of a young Greenland whale, me he heard the noise at Amsterdam, and several other skeletons, perfect in two-and-twenty miles off. Many of their line. Concerning the history of the inhabitants were sitting at dinner, these, however, I could not gain much and perished among the ruins of their information, as the whole was exhi- dwellings, with their wives and chilbited by a woman, who spoke Dutch, dren. A Jewish school suffered conet preterea nihil.

siderably; sixteen of the children were I then entered the church of St blown up. A charity school near it Peter, which is a magnificent pile. In was also destroyed, with all its inHolland nothing will be found to mates. Fifty children at a boarding astonish and gratify a stranger more school narrowly escaped, by the collie than the superb nature of all the sion of two walls, which supported the buildings appropriated to public wore beams and roof: only two of these ship. They are generally as fine as were crushed to death, and a third our cathedrals. The small towns are perished with fright in its father's not destitute of them, and in the arms. Those who were saved rushed large there are many. Here I had not into the court-yard, and the meeting advanced six yards, before I found there of parents and children is des myself standing by the tomb which cribed to have been terrible. The contains the ashes of the famous Boere windows of my bed-room command a haave. It is simple and elegant, and view of this very spot, and of what I consists merely of a large urn of white at first thought, a fine park, with a marble, placed upon a jet black pe- canal, and trees, and pleasant walks. destal. The urn is surrounded by six I did not then know that this was figures of white marble, four of which where the explosion had taken place, represent the different stages of life, and that at one period it was the most and the other two the sciences of populous quarter of the city.

By this Medicine and Chemistry. Below the awful catastrophe several streets were urn is a drapery, likewise of white annihilated, and Professor Meerman, marble, with several emblematical de- with many others, died of fright. Afa vices. There is a head of Boerhaave, ter the explosion, the town was disof the same material, in basso relievo covered to be on fire in different places. upon the front of the black pedestal ; It must indeed have been a tremenand below this, at a little distance dous night. from each other, are the following

The environs of Leyden are by no inscriptions; “ Simplex sigillum veri, means devoid of beauty; and there is and « Salutifero Boerhavii genio sa a greater variety in the scenery than is crum.”

to be observed in most Dutch landBesides this, I observed the tombs of scapes. I circumambulated the town several other illustrious men, particu- during a calm and delightful evening, larly that of Camper, the celebrated and enjoyed many picturesque views anatomist. It consists of a large white in the course of my walk. It is surbust, placed upon a black pedestal, rounded by a high wall, and this wall without ornament or decoration. On is again encompassed by a deep and it there is neither inscription nor de- broad canal with many windings, vice, but simply the name, which will which from some points assumes the never die.

appearance of a lake, and from others In the same church lie the remains of a river. On the other side of this of Gerard de Meerman, a well-known canal there is a shady walk, broad and bibliographer. This man died of dry, and bordered with two rows of fright, in consequence of the explo- magnificent trees, forming one of the sion which took place here on the most extensive and pleasing prome12th of January 1807.

A French nades I have ever seen. At each quarvessel from Amsterdam to Delft, ly- ter this walk is connected with the ing in the canal Van Rappenberg, in town by an elegant drawbridge, which, the centre of the city, laden with ten seen from a distance among the trees, thousand pound weight of gunpowder, has a romantic effect. The canal blew about five o'clock in the afterá abounds in small fish, which attract noon, killed some hundreds of the in- many water birds, particularly the habitants, destroyed great part of the terns or sea-swallows. These usually

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