WATERFORD. Waterford is a maritime county, and contains 710 English square miles. On the north it is bounded by the Suir, on the east and south by the ocean, and on the west by the Blackwater. Two such noble estuaries as the Suir and the Blackwater are seldom seen, and they abound with magnificent and romantic scenery, in places which are situated either between, or immediately under mountains of no inconsiderable height. As I passed along the banks of the Blackwater only in winter, I had not an opportunity of seeing its scenery to advantage, and therefore, for a description of it, shall refer the reader to the tour of Sir Richard Hoare.* On the 5th December, 1808, I passed through Clonmel, and crossing the bridge into the county of Waterford, kept the Suir in view all the way till I reached Curraghmore. This river is navigable from Clonmel to Carrick-on-Suir; the banks throughout almost the whole of this extent are covered with wood, and in summer must afford a most delightful ride. Carrick appears to be in a state of decline. There is a bridge here across the Suir, the arches of which are of various sizes, and near it a castle belonging to Lord Carrick. I spent the whole of the 8th in riding over the large domain of Curraghmore, which, in many parts, commands very extensive prospects of the country. From the tower, the eye can trace the Suir the whole way to Waterford, while the ocean, stretched out along the coast on the south, forms, in the remote part of the picture, a very fine object. The house is seen to most advantage in front, as it is backed by wood, which exhibits very grand scenery. This domain contains 2800 acres, 1100 of which are wood: some artificial pieces of water have been formed, but when viewed from the windows, they give the place a contracted look, not at all suited to the extent of the grounds. The whole is inclosed by walls. It may be justly said, that this domain excels in mountain scenery, and in that woody wildness to which a flat pond-like piece of water can never add beauty. Had this pleasant retreat been suffered to remain indebted to nature only, it might have stood the test of comparison with any thing of the kind in the kingdom. From this place to Waterford the road passes through a district which exhibits a great variety of picturesque views along the banks of the Suir. Owing to the nature of its situation, the city is not seen till you come within a short distance of it, for it stands, as it were, in the bottom of a bason, with the Suir, about a mile broad, and filled with shipping, flowing close to its side. A noble quay a mile long, with a * Tour through Ireland, p. 103. wooden bridge, like that at Derry, which draws up in the middle, adds much to the beauty of this place, and is of great benefit to commerce. Quitting Waterford on the 10th, and looking back, I observed that the view of the city on the side towards Faithleg, is far superior to that on the road which leads to it from Curraghmore, and along the Suir to Faithleg the scenery continues highly picturesque. The city of Waterford, from some parts of the country, forms a fine object. Leaving Clogheen I passed over mountains for nearly ten miles, till I reached Lismore, and during the whole ride did not perceive a single cabin; but I observed evident proofs of that neglect to which large districts, susceptible of culture, are consigned, in consequence of ignorance, prejudice, and other causes, equally pernicious in their effects. I saw, with no small regret, a large tract of country capable of very great improvement, drowned in water and destitute of trees; I met a poor peasant, whose wretched dress bespoke the utmost degree of misery, and whose whole appearance excited my commiseration. Had our immortal bard seen this child of misfor tune he must have exclaimed, -Famine is in thy cheeks; Need and oppression stareth in thine eyes; Upon thy back hangs ragged misery. Romeo and Juliel, Act v. sc. 1. Being desirous of knowing to whom this neglected land belonged, I found on inquiry, that it was the property of the Duke of Devonshire. I have in another part of this work expressed my sentiments in regard to proprietors, non-residents in Ireland, and therefore shall not here indulge in much reflection on that subject. But I cannot help remarking, that it is a matter of no small moment, and deserves the serious consideration, not only of those whose interest is more immediately concerned, but of all who wish well to their country. Before you approach the town of Lismore, you fall into a beautiful glen, which proceeds in a winding direction; the sides of the mountains by which it is formed, being clothed with oak and ash for the distance of two miles. A stream of considerable size, which discharges itself into the Blackwater at Lismore, runs through it, and forms no small addition to its beauties. Near the town are the remains of an immense castle, once the residence of the brave but unfortunate Sir Walter Raleigh, which forms a very interesting object. This ruined castle stands in an elevated situation, and appears to have been a place of strength. A great extent of the interior part of this county consists of mountains, which still remain in the wild state of nature. The banks of the Blackwater are wooded, and the Suir is adorned with the magnificent domains of Curraghmore and Coolrannie, and the seat of Lord Besboro on the opposite bank in Kilkenny. On the 27th of March, 1809, I crossed the ferry at Youghall, and passing through an uncultivated tract of mountain, destitute of inhabitants, but highly susceptible of improvement, belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, proceeded to Dungarvon, a town built on the beach, which, as you descend the mountain, appears almost as if it stood in the sea. Afterwards, crossing a valley of excellent land about four miles wide, as far as I could calculate by the eye, I turned round the projecting point of a chain of mountains, and arrived at the small village of Killmacthomas. From this village, the first few miles exhibit the same face of country, till within a short distance of the banks of the Suir, where the eye is once more gratified with the appearance of trees. On the right, for nearly the whole of the way, there are magnificent views of the ocean, but not a gentleman's seat is to be seen between Youghall and the mansion of Lord Waterford at Curraghmore. Reflecting on the happy changes that may be produced in the state and condition of a neglected country by art and labour, where there is genius to plan and sufficient population to execute, one is naturally led to the instance of Peter the Great, whose successful exertions hold forth a most encouraging example to the friends of national improvement. The country where Petersburgh now stands, about the beginning of the last century, was a mere marsh, or rather consisted of some marshy islands surrounded by the Neva, and occupied only by the wretched huts of a few poor fishermen ; the comprehensive mind of Peter perceived at one glance the advantages it possessed, and without suffering his ardour to be damped by difficulties which might have deterred men of less resolution, he determined to make it the site of a new city, embracing all the benefits arising from a maritime situation. The design thus conceived, with a spirit almost prophetic, was executed with that enthusiasm which always forms an ingredient in the character of true greatness, and Petersburgh now rears its proud spires amidst cultivated plains, to attest to future ages that there is scarcely any thing impossible to real genius, directed by firmness, and tempered by judgment, Immortal Peter! first of monarchs !` He His stubborn country tam'd, her rocks, her fens, To more exalted soul he rais'd the man. Thomson's Winter. How much it is to be wished that a few sparks of this genius were conferred on great men in every country, who sometimes, instead of applying one part of their property to render another productive, which would be of the utmost utility, not only to themselves, but to the public, either waste their time in ignoble ease, or suffer themselves to lose all relish for useful pursuits amidst the varied enjoyments supplied by their riches. Some of my readers perhaps may be disposed to smile at the allusion I have here made, and to think that I have wandered needlessly from my subject, to introduce a great prince civilizing a savage nation. But those whose minds are habituated to reflection, will I trust be of a different opinion. Some districts of Ireland are at present in a state little superior to that in which the greater part of Russia was in the time of Peter the Great, and the same spirit which inspires him who reforms the manners of a large empire, actuates the patriot whose improvements promote industry and happiness within the more contracted circle over which his influence extends. Every proprietor of an estate in which there is much waste land, is not required to be a Peter the Great; but if he cannot found cities, he may rear villages; if he cannot construct ports or create navies, he may enable poor fishermen to procure boats, and supply them with tackle; if he has not the means of establishing universities or learned societies, he may contribute towards the erection of schools and other seminaries. In a word, he may do what Peter did, and what every great and rich man ought to do; he may animate by rewards, and instruct by example. By encouraging industry and promoting virtuous education among the lower classes, many of the evils with which Ireland is now oppressed would be banished; those causes of reproach which give rise to national reflections would cease; every thing in that country would assume a new face; her sons would know a happiness to which, perhaps, they have hitherto been strangers, and the harp of Erin, so long mute, would once more be strung to celebrate in grateful strains the most pleasing that can vibrate on the ear of benevolence, the praises of her god-like benefactors. CHAPTER III. SOIL. THE surface of Ireland affords no great diversity of soil. Sand is never seen except in places on the shore; chalk is unknown, and tenacious clays, such as those found in Oxfordshire, in some parts of Essex, and throughout High Suffolk, I could never meet with, though in the opinion of many around me I was standing on perfectly "stiff clay," an appellation given by the Irish to argillaceous soils. That clay may not exist in Ireland I will not venture to assert; but it is not at the surface, as is often the case in various parts of England. Such kinds of flint as are common in Kent, Surrey, and Hertfordshire, are scarce. The greater part of the island abounds with limestone or calcareous gravel; few of the counties are without either the one or the other. The former is a useful production, and is converted into a source of wealth that will always be employed with advantage. The space occupied by the mountains and bogs,* when compared with the whole area, makes a great diminution in the productive acres of the kingdom. In the north, the quantity of rich soil is not very considerable, yet vallies of extraordinary rich land are to be found in every county, and I was not a little astonished, amidst the rocky and dreary mountains of Donegal, where there was hardly a vestige of cultivation, to find myself drop all at once into a district where the soil was exceedingly fertile. I am inclined to think that the general cultivation of flax is a pretty sure indication of rich land, as this plant, in poor ground, would never attain to perfection. A great portion of the soil of Ireland throws out a luxuriant herbage, springing up from a calcareous subsoil, without any considerable depth. I have seen bullocks of the weight of 180 stone,+ rapidly fattening on land incapable of receiving the print of a horse's foot, even in the wettest season, and where there were not many inches of soil. This is one species of the rich soil of Ireland, and is to be found throughout Roscommon, in some parts of Galway, Clare, and other districts. Some places exhibit the richest loam that I ever saw turned up by a plough; this is the case throughout Meath in particular. Where such soil occurs, its fertility is so conspicuous, that appears as if nature had determined to counteract the bad effects produced by the clumsy system of its cultivators. On the banks of the Fergus and Shannon, the land is of a different kind, but equally productive, though the surface presents the appearance of marsh. These districts are called "the caucasses;" the substratum is a blue it * In regard to the bogs, I mean to consider them under a distinct head.. +8lbs. to the stone. |