derstood as a rule. Some of the а national dance with ludicrous solemnity, the musician joining in with the rest. Dancing is often kept up on the way home, the girls singing, and the whole party snapping their fingers in time to the music. It is then that a foreigner cannot fail to be astonished at the sobriety of the people, and one thinks with shame of the scenes after a similar meeting in Great Britain or Ireland. strumming on the guitar, the rhyme being generally limited to putting on a strongly accented final "e" at the end of each line. In the latter case the words are full of personal allusions to those present, and occasional shouts of laughter show how the hits are appreciated. There is a constant hum of conversation and plenty of rough chaff; while an occasional dance, for which the young people are quite ready, makes a welcome break in the evening's work. Of sports, as we understand the word, there is practically nothing. The Jogo do Pau, or quarter-staff play, is practised to a certain extent, but no more actually learnt than is boxing by the same class in England, though each is no doubt the national mode of defence. Some country wine-shops have a bowling court attached, and on Sunday and holiday afternoons it is generally in use, but cards inside the shop are found much more attractive. Some time before the beginning of Lent there breaks out an epidemic of masquerading, which increases in intensity as Shrove Tuesday approaches, and reaches its climax on that day. Not only in the towns, but also in the country, is this amusement in favour. "" costumes are composed of any outlandish garments that come to hand; but a paper mask and a voice disguised in a shrill falsetto are imperative. A favourite character is what looks like a Christy Minstrel without the banjo or bones, but which is really a caricature of obsolete country Bands of these maskers promenade the streets and roads, to the delight of all the children they meet; people stand at the doors and windows looking out for them, and provoke a good The Esfolhada, or husking maize, is another occasion for meeting and merry-making. When the corn-cobs have been gathered into the barn, the farmer chooses an evening and invites all his friends to a kind of "Bee." He provides wine and any inexpensive refreshments he may think fit, and when the day's work and supper are finished the guests drop in fast. The corn is piled on the threshingfloor, and a circle is formed round it. Many willing hands soon begin to show results, and the great heap is gradually reduced. One of the unwritten rules is that any one finding a red cob may kiss all the girls present; and of course the expedient of bringing the necessary "mistletoe bough is often resorted to by the festive spirits of the party. There is sure to be at least one guitar, which is in constant requisition, and as surely will be found one or more persons of either sex ready to sing, or, more accurately, to yell at the top of their voices. The national songs or fados have generally silly words but pretty airs, with a distinct tendency to sadness, especially if the time is slow. Most likely, however, the words are improvised to a monotonous dress. an The tempered war of words, and occasionally pelt them with small packets of starch, which burst like shells, and cover them with flour. If the masqueraders are supplied with like ammunition, a smart skirmish ensues. Quiet passers-by who show they do not wish to take part in the fun are very rarely molested. Lastly, there is the bull-ring, and this, though apparently in the same class as the theatre, which I do not include, draws largely from the surrounding country districts, probably on account of being a daylight amusement, thus giving the spectators time to reach their homes before night. The love of a bull-fight, though continuing in the southern provinces, had of late years very much died out to the north of the Mondego; and Porto had been for years without a bull-ring; but lately some speculators revived the sport, and the large attendances show that its attraction for the general public is again increasing. Portugal is essentially an agricultural country, and manufactures, though fast increasing, do not yet employ any appreciable number of the population. In proof of this may be mentioned the heavy duty, and other prohibitions on imported bread-stuffs, by which the farmer is benefited at the expense of the public. On the death of a proprietor, the law here, as in France, obliges the division of property into three equal parts one of these goes to the widow, one is divided amongst the children, and the third can be left as desired. There is no limit to the subdivision of land except that imposed by the lord of the manor, when the property, as in most cases, is liable to ground rent, and the result is that most of the farms are ridiculously small. Many of them include a strip of pinewood or waste land, perhaps at a considerable distance from the house, and thence is obtained a cartload or more of furze, heather, &c., which is thrown. down in the farmyard or near the entrance, and when well trodden by the cattle, and rotted by the winter rains, forms, as a rule, the only manure used on the farm at all events, in country and inland districts. In the neighbourhood of towns the culture of the land is often left to the women and children, and, if necessary, one or more farm-servants are kept the owner in some cases obtaining employment in the town, and returning home at night; in others, only taking or sending his bullocks to work for hire when not required at home. When circumstances render it impossible to supplement the pro duct of the farm by wages, the subdivision of the land soon approaches the utmost limit which will support a family, and the younger members know they must earn their livelihood elsewhere. This is in most points a parallel case to that much debated one of the Irish peasant and the Scotch crofter, but I have never heard of any trouble in this country on that account. The Portuguese, instead of insisting on starving under the paternal roof, cheerfully accepts the inevitable, and as soon as he is old enough to leave home, either hires himself to a farmer or is apprenticed to some trade. When grown up, and feeling confidence in himself, the possibility of emigrating is considered, and is carried into practice with far more pluck and energy than is shown by our own countrymen under orders gives a right to free medical advice, the use of their infirmaries in case of illness, a home in the asylum in extreme old age or infirmity, and a decent burial; but in the latter case all the property belonging to the deceased is claimed by the order. There are also benefit societies which, for a weekly subscription of a few pence, give advice and medicine free, while some of them add an allowance for each day that the member is certified by the medical officer as being unable to work. Licences to beg are issued by the municipal authorities on documentary evidence from a medical man and the parish priest that the petitioner is incapacitated by injury or illness from earning a living. similar circumstances. The chief a fixed sum to certain religious Wages are very low, especially when the crushing duties are taken into account. Ordinary labourers get thirteen or fourteen pence aday; carpenters, stone-masons, coopers, &c., from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.; the latter amount is given only to head-men. Children are set to work as soon as any one will give them employment, and earn a few pence; but in most cases the peasant is miserably poor in spite of the most rigid economy. When ill ness comes the struggle is hard indeed; for though friends and relatives are most kind-hearted, yet they have but little to spare, and can render comparatively lit tle assistance. The payment of VOL. CXLIX.-NO. DCCCCV. The real bête noir of the young peasant is the conscription, and for years beforehand he and his relatives plan and calculate how it may be avoided. Up to 1887 a substitute or a payment of about £40 was accepted, and a common arrangement was for several young fellows, who would become liable for service in the same year, to club together and provide the sum necessary to free the one on whom the lot might fall. Now, however, the law is that "military service is obligatory and personal, remissions and substitutes being prohibited." The Government issues a notice of the number of recruits to be furnished by each district, and these are again subdivided by local authorities until the quota of each parish is fixed. Exemption from service may be claimed by those who are under the regulation height of five feet and three-quarters of an inch, by the eldest or only son of a widow, the eldest brother amongst orphans, those who have completed a course of study at 2 A Coimbra University and certain academies and medical schools, or who have taken priests' orders. Various other circumstances may be pleaded, but these are the most common. Every lad on attaining the age of twenty, and not included in any of the above-mentioned classes, is obliged to present himself for medical inspection, and is then passed as (1) fit for service; (2), under medical surveillance; or (3), unfit for service. Those included in class 2 are liable to annual inspection for three years, and if still rejected are then free. This is the occasion when all possible influence is brought to bear on the authorities with a view to deferring the evil day, and by luck or favour escaping altogether. Out of 5729 men called up from one district for the annual inspection in 1888, only 3230 were declared fit for service. The final choice is fixed by lot, those drawing from No. 1 up to the full number required having to serve, and the others are passed to the second reserve, which practically means being free. The nominal time in the ranks is three years; in the first reserve, which is composed of time-expired soldiers, five years; in the second reserve four years, but after six months' actual service a certain number of men may be allowed to return to their homes, "if it be considered desirable in the interest of the industries and agriculture of the country." This permission is largely taken advantage of by the Government to reduce the army expenditure, and "skeleton regiments" are very common. I remember reading a speech of Lord Wolseley's in which he strongly upheld the advantages of a handsome uniform by the argument that it caused admiration for the wearer, and that this knowledge, by giving him a good opinion of himself, gave also a higher moral status. The opposite case is daily exemplified by the Portuguese soldier. It is rare to see a man well set-up, or looking as if he had any pride in his profession. The dingy uniform attracts neither attention nor admiration, and the wearer slouches along with his hands in his pockets or round the neck of a comrade. Great allowance must of course be made for a service which is obligatory and distasteful, but in other Continental countries the drill -sergeant shows a better result for his time and trouble. One of the most striking and universal of Zé's characteristics is his utter distrust of all persons placed in authority over him, from the Prime Minister down to the last man who can order him about. They one and all are suspected of looking to their own interests, and making the most of their chances, regardless of the duties and obligations of their positions. That such should be the case he takes as a matter of course, and, no doubt, would be quite ready to do the same should the opportunity present itself. In this country accepting a quid pro quo, or even exacting it for service rendered, is considered no more immoral than paying for goods bought at a shop. The length to which this may be carried varies with each man; but let the principle once be established, and it is easy to see that in a position of authority, poorly remunerated, the temptation to make the most of what are considered the perquisites of office is very great. Bad as this is in any position, it becomes infamous when applied to legal decisions, and the perquisite takes the form of a bribe. The mode of bestowing the same is of course judiciously chosen and delicately executed. The power of postponing trials on frivolous pretexts is a ready means of tiring out the patience and resources of a poor litigant, and is also useful in causes célèbres for allowing public indignation and interest to subside. How much correctness there may be in Zé's belief in the general employment of bribery and corruption it is impossible to say, but it is certain that his expectation of final success depends less on the justice of his cause than on being able to employ money or influence in the proper quarters. If the case be lost the result is attributed to the superiority of the other side, in the exercise of the usual means of obtaining a favourable verdict. I do not think Zé can be called litigious; it is too expensive and uncertain a luxury for him to venture on were he so minded, and he is not. The political and legal morality of the country being such, it is not surprising that certain social relations are in much the same state. A peasant woman suffers little or no loss of reputation by having an illegitimate child, and the official report for the Porto district gives 3684 legitimate and 1262, or 25 per cent, illegitimate children, as born in 1888. This looseness of morals is a source of considerable trouble amongst domestic servants, and is the more to be deplored as these still retain many of the qualities with which the English of a past generation are credited. They are respectful, hard-working -in a plodding style-very early risers, honest, and affectionate. José, as might be expected, is very superstitious, but it is his gudewife Maria who goes to the extreme in this respect. Even from her it is difficult to get any information, and only at long intervals will some chance occurrence lead her to speak on the subject. The white-robed, churchyard-haunting ghost does not seem to visit this country, though there exists a belief in good and evil spirits apart from that taught by the Church. The prevalent superstitions take more the form of incantations as a cure for disease, the consulting of fortune-tellers, and a belief in luck. is a thorough fatalist, and this frees him to a surprising extent from the fear of infectious diseases, at the same time that it makes him more liable to them from his conviction that no precautions of his can be of any avail. Indeed José Such is "Zé Povinho" as I have known him for a number of years. But the difficulty of acquiring a thorough knowledge of the home life and ideas of one class by a member of another is well known; and when to this is added a difference of nationality, the difficulty is immensely increased. I can only express my firm conviction that the Portuguese peasants are worthy of being both liked and esteemed, and, on the whole, will not suffer by comparison with those of any other country. I should mention that my remarks only refer to the inhabitants of the northern provinces, those to the south differing in many respects, and in disposition approaching more to the Spaniards. The events following the celebrated "Ultimatum" of last January in no way changed my opinion of José. He took no part in the petty annoyances which the English residents had to endure, and which proceeded almost entirely from the middle |